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By Jason E. Fountain
My application: 1992 Ford Ranger Custom 3.0 v6
MSD has positive comments across the board in just about every field of
performance there is. I decided I wanted to get a little more spark out of
my 3.0 so I opted to get the MSD 6A ignition system. The ignition itself
cost $149.95 and is part #MSD-6200 at Summitracing.com. To get even better
combustion, I also ordered a blaster 2 coil. For those of you who like a
little shine, get the chrome one like I did; part #MSD-8200 and cost
$33.95 at Summit. The last part I ordered was an aluminum bracket; part
#SME-2804 and cost $19.95. The bracket is pretty solid, and comes with
shock boots to keep the ignition from jerking over bumps or when
offroading.
On a side note: If you would like to have a built in rev limiter, get the
MSD 6AL ignition. This should allow you to override the rev limiter but I
do not know if it will disable your governor. I don’t have a governor and
I already redline at 5,800rpms so….
The first step is to buy all the parts. Then sort them out on a table and
read the instructions! MSD ignition systems are very versatile, and can be
installed in more than one way. The way I will show you is the easiest and
quickest for this application.
If you have a ford TPI coil like the one pictured below, then these
instructions are for you!
The first step is to mount everything before wiring it up. You have to see
if everything will fit before you start cutting or splicing wires.
Disconnect the plug on the stock TPI coil. Then remove the coil by taking
out the four screws that hold it down. With the coil out of the way, put
the new MSD blaster coil in it’s place. Look at the picture below. The
coil’s tower should be facing the firewall. Now, using a screw down 3”
clamp, mount the MSD coil onto the stock coil mount. This setup is more
than stable enough. Trust me, this baby will not budge!
Now, let’s mount the MSD ignition system. This is the hardest part of the
entire install. If you did not get the mounting bracket, you must drill
four holes that line up with the ones in the ignition box. If you did buy
the mount, you have the advantage of only drilling 3 holes. Two holes was
more than enough for me. You drill them into the bracket, then into the
frame or wherever you choose to mount. I found that in between my blower
motor and cone air filter was ideal. See picture below.
Now that the ignition system and blaster coil are installed, let’s start
wiring it up! The ignition system has all the wiring you will need. There
is also a magnetic pickup connector that you will NOT need. Just leave it
alone. This is the wire on the left in the picture below.
The ignition also contains a heavy red wire to be connected to the
battery, and a heavy black wire for a ground. (I suggest connecting it to
the battery for the best ground available. Wires are shown in the picture
below.
There is also a white wire and a red wire that connect to the stock plug
which originally connected to the stock coil. The white wire from the MSD
plugs into the connector side with the dark green and yellow wire. The red
wire from the MSD plugs into the connector side with the red and light
green wire. This can be seen in the pic below. The installation kit
includes the red and white connectors with dual wires that make a y shape.
They say to tape up the ones you do not use, such as the one’s I am
holding.
The only wires left are the ones from the MSD ignition to the blaster 2
coil. The orange wire from the ignition connects to the positive terminal
on the coil. The black wire on the ignition connects to the negative
terminal on the coil. Now connect the spark plug wire that was originally
on the stock coil to the MSD coil and you are almost finished. You have
the option of adding a tachometer to your system if you did not have one
from the factory. I already had one installed on my stock ignition, but
converted it to use the MSD 6A’s tachometer output.
Yes everything that needs connecting is done, but now you have to check
for clearance issues. Make sure everything clears nicely and all wires are
out of the way and secure. You don’t want any problems in this area of
performance. MSD recommends you open up your spark plug gap to .050- .060.
When I did this I accidentally got carbon in one of the holes and one of
my lifters started tapping, so USE A SHOPVAC OR CLEAN BEFORE TAKING OUT
YOUR PLUGS! It sounds like a stupid mistake, but that stupid mistake is
costing me money! So take my advice and be careful! If you have any
comments or questions, email me at
Jason@badazzrangers.com
Pictures of the finished product.
 
Jason E. Fountain
www.badazzrangers.com
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