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1984-1994 Ford Ranger/Bronco II with
4-cylinder or 3.0/4.0V6
Looking for a little more performance out of
your Ranger or Bronco II? Well the modification I am about
to tell you about has the potential to free up to fifteen
horsepower and twenty-seven ft. lbs. of torque with only $191.95
before s/h. Installation is up two hours depending on your
mechanical knowledge. The modification I am talking about is
the electric fan. I purchased an electric fan from www.SummitRacing.com, part #FLX-40. The brand name is Flex-A-Lite
and the kit is COMPLETE. The kit includes fan, motor, and
shroud assembly already assembled; top and bottom aluminum
brackets, mounting and electrical kit bags, and the instruction
sheet. The fan is much more durable than I expected, and I
installed it in under forty minutes, but what I really like about
it is the built in adjustable thermo on/off sensor. The
included instructions are very in-depth and right to the point,
however I ran into a problem trying to find the a/c clutch
positive wire that will turn on the fan when I turn on the a/c.
I came to the www.TheRangerStation.com
forum and under thirty minutes
solved the problem with the help of a friend named Jubean.
To save most of you some trouble, I will include a full photo
installation of this product on a 1992 Ford Ranger custom with a
3.0 Liter V6.
This is what is robbing you of a great deal of horsepower and
Note: This fan is already installed on my truck so I’m taking
the pictures of the stock fan from outside of the vehicle.
First Step: (as via instruction included, I will include photos,
the instructions include diagrams A and B)
The fan comes already assembled, but you must
attach the brackets and thermo control knob.
Assembling the fan brackets and thermo knob
1) Using the screw, washers, and nuts in the mounting kit bag,
attach the large top bracket to the top of the electric fan
2) Again, using the screws, washers and nuts provided,
attach the bottom aluminum bracket to the bottom of the electric
3) Attach the thermostat control knob provided in the
electrical kit bag to the thermostat in the fan shroud.
Aluminum bracket and control knob can be seen in the picture
Now that the fan is completely assembled, it is
time for installation.
1) Disconnect the battery. (After this, I recommend
removing your intake tube if it is in your way.)
2) Remove the vehicle’s original belt driven clutch and
fan assembly. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the fan
from the fan clutch. For the 3.0 take a wrench and a rubber
hammer, and tap it lose clockwise, the 4.0 is counter clockwise.
This is what you see when you are taking off the fan from the
engine; except for the fact that I‘m holding the shroud upside
down in every picture (LOL), but you get the picture. I used
a 7/8 wrench and a rubber mallet to tap the fan loose, then I
unscrewed it the rest of the way and pulled the fan and shroud out
of the vehicle as one unit.
3) Remove the vehicle’s factory fan shroud. Note: In
some cases it may be easier to remove the fan, clutch and shroud
at once by simultaneously lifting each item upward. (I highly
4) Slide the small bottom bracket into the radiator shroud
clips as the original shroud was mounted.
Bottom bracket on stock fan is pictured below just to give you an
idea of the what the new bracket looks like for you to slide into
place on the radiator. Once again, I am holding the shroud
upside down, but imagine I’m pointing at the bottom bracket. LOL
5) Tilt the electric fan assembly forward and match the bolt
slots of the large top bracket to the bolt slots of the radiator
channel. Using the provided hardware, fasten the unit
Nope you are not finished, installation is just
a start. Now you are ready to hook up the wires that’ll
kick this baby to the max.
1) Connect the “+” terminal to a 12 volt positive (+)
source. (I.E. fuse box. But I attached this wire directly to the
positive battery terminal.) NOTE: If you do not hook up the fan
unit to an ignition controlled positive, the unit will not turn
off when the vehicle is turned off; only when the engine has been
completely cooled will it shut off. Since I drag race, I prefer it
still running if the vehicle is turned off.
2) Connect the “B” terminal to a 12 volt positive (+)
power source. (I.E. Battery)
3) Connect the “G” terminal to ground. (I.E. chassis,
negative (-) side of battery)
4) If you have air conditioning: with the 3-way connector
provided, pass the A/C clutch positive (+) wire (connected to the
a/c pump) through the connector. Place the black wire
provided into the closed end of the connector. Crimp the metal
plate. Snap plastic cover into place. Attach black wire to
the “C” terminal of the control box.
The a/c clutch positive wire can be seen in the picture below. It
is the purple wire and there are two to choose from.
In this pic, you can find the a/c clutch positive wire just above
the map sensor.
The Air Conditioning Relay activates the fan when A/C is turned
Reconnect your negative battery terminal at this time.
Now it’s time to get this baby cranking out
some extra hp and torque; not to mention a slightly cooler running
Adjusting the Temperature Control (I have mine running as cool as
possible, not because my motor runs hot, I just want it to stay on
“C“ like it always has.)
1) Turn the adjustable control knob completely clockwise.
2) Idle the vehicle, when the vehicle is at 5 to 10 degrees
higher than “normal” turn the adjustable control knob counter
clockwise until the fan comes on.
3) The fan will now activate at this temperature
automatically and will shut off after it has cooled the vehicle
down 7 to 11 degrees. Note: It is typical for this fan unit to
cycle on and off. (DUH)
I didn’t even worry about the optional step
(Please don’t order this part, you can buy a regular switch if
you intend to perform this.)(Note: Based on Flex-a-lite’s manual switch part #31148, not
1) Connect the “M” terminal to terminal 1 on the switch.
2) Connect terminal 2 to a 12 volt positive (+) source.
3) Attach terminal 3 to ground to illuminate the switch.
The finished product: