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View Full Version : 1998 & Newer specific Ranger problems.....


Jim Oaks
06-10-2008, 07:18 PM
I'm curious, and it would be easier to ask then to read every post in this forum.....

What are some of the problems encountered in the 1998 and newer Rangers that are specific to those models? As the tech library expands, I'm trying to figure out what direction we need to go now that the 1998 and up Rangers are becoming more common and being modified more.

Whether it be hubs, axles, transmissions, engines, electronics, etc.....please post any problems you see popping up with these trucks that we may need to address in some tech pages.

It would seem to me that there would be more and more electrical related issues.

You may post some that I already know about or have addressed elsewhere, but throw anything you can think of out there. Who knows, we may find that a specific problem is more common that you think.

Thanks.:headbang:

wvcat
06-10-2008, 09:52 PM
Here are the main problems I have run into:
1- I've killed 2 altenators 4 wheeling, last time I went I made a plastic shield and had no problems.
2-PVH's, the pulse vacumn hubs are nice but also suck...lol After a few trips 4 wheeling mine stopped working. Gas is too expensive for me to just do the pemanent lock mod and I am too cheap to buy the AVM hubs. I popped the caps and washed them out with a hose(they were full of mud) and sprayed everything down with pb blaster and the work normally again.
3- Power steering pumps seem to always be noisey
4-IAC valves have a tendancy to make a humming sound
5- Heater resisters get corroded and tend to only work on hi
6-The vacumn line that operates the heater and pvh's tend to get damaged or burnt on the manifold
7-The front wheel abs sensors create problems and don't always throw a trouble code
8- the speed sensor can cause the trans to shift weird and cause people to misdiagnos trans problems
9-clutch slave cylinders go bad
10-door adjar switches stick causing the dome light to stay on
11- e-brake cables have a tendency to go bad/rust causing the brakes to drag
12- some have had blend door problems

Thats all I can think of for now...lol
John

triumphrider-1
06-11-2008, 01:37 PM
The only thing I can think to add to wvcat's post is the typical driveshaft thud/clunk when starting to accelerate and when coming to a stop.

c_note
06-11-2008, 02:28 PM
id say since there are so many DIYers here, after cranking the t-bars theres always an alignment problem. a walk through would be great if its not too complex or need of special calibration tools.

Beef52751
06-11-2008, 05:22 PM
cam sensor in the 3.0s

LittleBigFoot
06-11-2008, 05:46 PM
Slip Yoke is a bitch.

organic
06-11-2008, 07:52 PM
The only thing I can think to add to wvcat's post is the typical driveshaft thud/clunk when starting to accelerate and when coming to a stop.

:agree:

Jspafford
06-18-2008, 12:30 PM
I've had my 2001 and the 1999 both randomly not fire until the third crank.

It only happens a couple times a year.

GatorBlue92
06-18-2008, 01:21 PM
cam sensor in the 3.0s


that along with the synchronizer gear that it sits on

4x4junkie
06-18-2008, 06:51 PM
Door Ajar switches that stick (EXTREMELY common)
PVH hubs that clog with dirt
Driveshaft slip-spline that was inadequately lubricated at the factory (stick-slip thump on takeoff)
"Marbling" sound in the 4.0L OHV engines at idle (I don't seem to see near as many reports of this as I did 5-7 years ago though)
4WD "GEM" modules that frequently go bad (usually results in failure of the 4WD shifting into LO, but will still work in HI)
Lo-Pinion IFS with low-hanging torsion bars (We really need '98UP SAS stuff still!)


Oh, and the '98 seats are a PITA too! They don't click back to their previous position after you flip them forward like the ones on my '94 and '90 do.

kroed11581
06-26-2008, 03:20 PM
Mine has had trouble with, but have successfully fixed:

4x4 shift motor (replaced)
rear driveshaft clunk (took apart and greased)
oil pan gasket was pushed out (replaced)
door switch (WD-40, worked after that)
rear axle shaft bearing and seal leaking (replaced)
________
weed vaporizer (http://weedvaporizers.org)

phatcap
07-16-2008, 09:28 PM
i have a 2000 xlt 2.5l with just over 80k. i've had to replace the following due to failure:

-upper ball joints
-u-joints
-extension housing oil seal (between tranny and driveshaft)
-caliper seized, so i did both
-alternator
-tie rod ends
-boot on the power steering rack

i've done a lot more to it, maintenance stuff and "mods"...

kerry
07-17-2008, 08:49 AM
I've had trouble with the rear brakes & it seems like I've seen a few other posts mentioning similar problems.

4x4RangerGuy
07-17-2008, 06:55 PM
From my experience with my 98:

- The 4R44E transmission (not strong enough for even mild 4 wheeling)
- PVH Hubs (It's actually the rear knuckle seal that causes them to clog up. The vacuum lines are problematic as well)
- Alternators (although it may just be bad parts to blame)
- Poor spark output on 3.0 (just get the upgraded coil from Ford)
- Inner tie rods
- Alignment after torsion bars are cranked (special cam bolts are necessary)

rat_ranger
07-28-2008, 07:46 AM
intake manifold ontrol valve on the duratech. dont remember what code it is but it seems pretty common.

motojcf27
08-11-2008, 04:13 AM
Vibration from the rear end at speeds over 65MPH. Actually seems more like a buzzing sensation in your @$$ and in the gear selector. Tires and wheels are new, true and balanced. No one can seem to figure it out. U-joints apear to be in good condition and the bearings are good. If anyone else has this problem let me know.

dallasdryer
08-13-2008, 12:47 AM
Twice I had a problem when i started my ranger it would fire, rev to about 2000 rpm and then die. If I kept my foot on the gas it would run roughly but as soon as my foot came off the gas it died again after removing the key and trying again once or twice it ran fine im not sure if this was a computer problem or a problem with the chip in the key.

jdluikes
08-18-2008, 07:43 PM
Vibration from the rear end at speeds over 65MPH. Actually seems more like a buzzing sensation in your @$$ and in the gear selector. Tires and wheels are new, true and balanced. No one can seem to figure it out. U-joints apear to be in good condition and the bearings are good. If anyone else has this problem let me know.


i have had this problem several times with my 99 ranger and i have found that the ring and pinion in the rear end wears out and causes a vibration from the rear end and the cheapest and easiest way i have found to fix it is to install a new rear end in stead of rebuilding it. i hope this helps

wlpetty3
09-08-2008, 12:50 PM
stupid power steering in mine went out, kinda. plenty of power steering fluid but it will only work if I rev the engine a bit.

Dome/door ajar light.

and tail gate wont latch sometimes, I just keep some wd-40 in the cab and that will fix it for a while.

Legend
09-10-2008, 12:01 AM
My 2003 3.0 Auto had a minor problem with a window that wasn't installed right at the factory. Since then - nothing. Not a problem. Maybe they should be excluded if they don't have any problems?
Oh wait, after 5 years I think my battery is getting a little soft and will need to be replaced before winter sets in - so we better keep them in the file.

warhawk
09-24-2008, 10:25 PM
I've had 3 problems.

PVH hubs; Easy fix, either lock them or buy the AVM hubs.
Drive shaft clunk; haven't fixed it yet.
IAC valve noise; I just replaced the valve works great now.

coffee
09-25-2008, 10:58 PM
2005 XL 3.0 5 Speed

I had 2 rearend rebuilds before 50,000 miles and need another one.
I have a K&N FIPK and keep getting PO171 and PO174 error codes

SawyerRanger
09-25-2008, 11:31 PM
plugs + wiring at about 50,000 miles. Not sure if this is 99 specific or just regular maintenance tho

Daniel_187
09-26-2008, 01:18 PM
Airbag light, Door ajar light, some sensor for emmissons went out

prefab08
10-05-2008, 03:12 PM
drive shaft clunk- i drilled the slip yoke and put a grease fitting in just give it a fue shots when i do a service on the truck every 3000 miles hasent came back and it has 190000 miles now.

belend door @#*$&# pissed me right off , fixed it with crazy glue but it took taking the whole fing thing apart but it seems to be holding up.

door switches for the dome light im on my 3 set add im going to get rid of the dome lignt if i have to do them again or swich to the chev style on the sunfire , the seem to be well sealed and cheep from my local parts store.

door window crank vibration- i took it apart and put greased up o-rings inbetween the plasticrub ring and the knob its self.

as for the 4/4 i havent had any problems i just got my 2008 6 months ago and all is well but i have big plans so far i hav ethe new sterio and subs , magaflow cat back, i am waiting till spring for the 4 inch super lift and 33's so il probly be braking sum stuff soon :icon_welder: then i get to make it better

02RangerMan
10-13-2008, 06:29 PM
DPFE sensor! Once every 6 months it takes a crap. Inexpensive part and has a 2 year warranty from autozone so i've only paid for one. Still annoying I belive the code is P1501 could be wrong on that.

Viva*the*Ranger
11-04-2008, 02:54 PM
My dash lights seem to drop like flys. Not all of them at once, just over here and over there. Tranny shifts funny sometimes and still don't know why.

sgtcheesy
11-13-2008, 02:38 PM
I finally got off my butt and checked out the door ajar/dome light problem on the site and WD-40 and canned air in the door latch fixed it....thanks!!!!

woodyedmiston
12-04-2008, 07:28 PM
-Power steering pumps seem to always be noisey
-IAC valves have a tendancy to make a humming sound
-typical driveshaft thud/clunk when starting to accelerate and when coming to a stop.
Dittos on the above:

An overall discussion of the camshaft position sensor;
cooling system problems, the plastic heater valve, and a general discussion of diagnosing cracked heads.

Captain Caveman
12-10-2008, 10:51 AM
Ditto on the slave clutch on my '06. They "repaired" it five times and never got it right.

My '07 had horrible brake squealing until I made them put ceramics on the front. Those didn't fix it either until they put new rotors in.

johnr66
12-10-2008, 11:58 AM
My Ranger is pretty basic, so not too much to go wrong. I have some minor things:

Stumbling at light throttle sometimes. It is light, something your passenger won't feel, but I notice it sometimes.

Squeak from trim piece around radio/AC when it is cold.

Front end knock sound when driving slowly (<20mph) over uneven or lightly bumpy pavement. It gets bad after driving for hours and parts warm up. After sitting overnight it is quiet again! Independent and respected mechanic checked it for me and said the suspension is within Fords specs. What could it be?

Danger FX4 Ranger
12-10-2008, 12:57 PM
My '07 had horrible brake squealing until I made them put ceramics on the front.
+1. I also had squealing which I couldn't seem to get rid of. Finally, I picked up a set of Duralast C-max ceramic brake pads from AutoZone, and I couldn't be any happier. My front brakes are quiet, and I don't have the brake dust other pads seem to produce.

mrkirbyv
12-10-2008, 09:58 PM
Both my 2003 and 2004 Ranger needed the left front wheel hub replaced at around 95k. One was making wop-wop noises at low speed and the other was a humming vibration over 30 mph. Both are about 30k later and still no problem with right hub. Hmmm... coincidence??

JohnnyO
12-11-2008, 06:54 AM
Have leased four RBV's now, 99 and 02 Rangers, 05 and 08 Sport Tracs. Had leaky front axle seals on the 02 and 05 repaired under warranty. Rust on the bottom seam of the tailgate and two of the doors on the 99 and 02, also repaired on warranty.
No other problems.

Anger
12-11-2008, 08:32 AM
:annoyed:
#1 Door ajar light.

blknite22
12-14-2008, 07:45 PM
+1. I also had squealing which I couldn't seem to get rid of. Finally, I picked up a set of Duralast C-max ceramic brake pads from AutoZone, and I couldn't be any happier. My front brakes are quiet, and I don't have the brake dust other pads seem to produce.




my 2008 sport has squeaky breaks, it just turned 3k miles, i should dump these pads huh? ill bitch at the dealer lol thanks guys

-Tom

scubasteve
12-24-2008, 12:30 AM
-clutch fan
-throttle position sensor
-the auto tranny is weak
-the electric tcase shift doesnt like water
-altenator quit when it got a little wet
-power steering pump is noisy
-and right before i cut the ifs out the rac and pinion steering blew out the drivers side seal.


on a 98 but i abuse it.

Danger FX4 Ranger
12-24-2008, 12:43 AM
my 2008 sport has squeaky breaks, it just turned 3k miles, i should dump these pads huh? ill bitch at the dealer lol thanks guys

-Tom

Beware, ceramic pads cause your rotors to wear more quickly. To me, the benefits outweigh to costs.

WNY964x4
12-28-2008, 07:54 PM
the cam synchro is the main thing

i also had a head go bad

i get the usual clunk out of the drive shaft

the 4R44E , i believe i have that , held up fine to more than mild off roading , i pulled out a stuck sideways ZR-2 , going backwards through a foot of extremely thick mud , and i pulled a toyota corolla out of a 3 foot ditch with it

but yea , the cam synchro caused me to blow my engine

but no noises or vibration from the rear diff

i hate the permanently locked front end

and my exhaust went to hell , and burnt the side of my stepside

and one of my rear doors doesnt work

BTW the truck is a 2000 3.0 Auto 4x4 with 157k miles , just installing the second engine , and i run 31x10.50R15LT Primewell PA100's , extended cab 4 door.

GB4000
01-03-2009, 11:29 PM
Sometimes (1 out of 10) I apparently don't have a 1st gear...

dangeranger88
01-05-2009, 09:21 PM
My Ranger is pretty basic, so not too much to go wrong. I have some minor things:

Stumbling at light throttle sometimes. It is light, something your passenger won't feel, but I notice it sometimes.

Squeak from trim piece around radio/AC when it is cold.

Front end knock sound when driving slowly (<20mph) over uneven or lightly bumpy pavement. It gets bad after driving for hours and parts warm up. After sitting overnight it is quiet again! Independent and respected mechanic checked it for me and said the suspension is within Fords specs. What could it be?

you know, i think my 99 has the same exact issue. Usually on the roads I won't hear it unless i come to a crap-ass, ripple-ridden road (which is frequently in PA :annoyed:) I hear it on the passenger side, in the middle to rear. It also only happens after i've been driving for a while. I checked everything out and everything is pretty tight...so I have no clue. I still suspect something on the exhaust...

Beef52751
01-12-2009, 06:11 PM
it sounds like the passenger door is open on my 99, not wind blowing but a clunk like its not latched all the way. I cant seem to figure it out. I only hear when im driving in a field or somewhere bumpy.
Beef

north44
01-15-2009, 03:57 AM
I've basically kept track of everything that's happened with my truck since I received it new in November of '02.

Following is a list of the problems encountered:

Aug '04 - 44,000 km/~30,000 miles - Air Bag Light "on" - traced to moisture/corrosion in underseat wiring per TSB on problem - this problem recurred a few more times - cleaning up the connnectors solved the problem each time

Jul '05 - 80,000 km/~50,000 miles - replaced alternator

Oct '05 - 90,000 km/~55,000 miles - wiring problem in transfer case

Jun '06 - 130,000 km/~80,000 miles - vacuum hose elbow split - front of engine where it was rubbing against upper rad hose

Jul '06 - 140,000 km/~86,000 miles - new fan clutch

May '07 - 200,000 km/~125,000 miles - broken rear leaf springs - a middle spring from each side split right at the axle

Jul '07 - 210,000 km/~130,000 miles - passenger side power door lock actuator replaced - driver's side actuator is acting up intermittently, but is still working to this day, though sometimes I have to press a couple of times (either on the remote or door buttons) before it opens/closes

Sep '07 - 225,000 km/~140,000 miles - starter and fuel pump relays replaced

Oct '07 - 230,000 km/~145,000 miles - brake pedal/light switch replaced

Oct '07 - 235,000 km/~150,000 miles - parking brake cables (to each rear drum) replaced (seized on passenger side)

Dec '07 - 245,000 km/~155,000 miles - wiper relay replaced (after this, I just replaced the rest of the relays in the underhood fuse box)

Sep '08 - 280,000 km/~175,000 miles - wiper motor replaced

Nov '08 - 285.000 km/~180,000 miles - thermostat and gasket replaced

Jan '09 - 295,000 km/~185,000 miles - alternator (2nd time) and battery (original) replaced

(I've rounded off the km, and the conversions from km to miles is approximate.)

All this in addition to the specified regular maintenance (or better) as per manufacturer's schedule for fluid changes, plugs, wires, belts etc., and replacement of regular wearing parts such as brakes and associated hardware, rotors/drums, bulbs, and so on.

On my vehicle, I would say that there was (maybe still is) a problem with the relays - just today I had to replace another fuel pump relay (well, it has been about -10 to -25 degrees C up here lately - I think it still translates to the -5 Fahrenheit range or thereabouts) - funny because the replacements were all OEM Ford products.

Other problems: the a/c was acting up this past summer - I'm probably looking at replacing the compressor this coming spring/summer; the driver's side power window doesn't close completely - looks like the winder regulator has some worn teeth at the top of its travel; the driver's side power door lock actuator could give out anytime - though it has been holding its own since problems were noted with it.

In all, I would have to say that my truck has been quite reliable - some of the "problems" are just normal wear items, or due to individual usage factors (e.g. the cracked rear springs might likely be the result of a series of quite heavy loads that that were being carried during that time).

Hope this is of some help in your survey.

north44
01-15-2009, 04:09 AM
. . . Oh, and a couple of problems that are so common that they almost slipped my mind:

the door ajar light/buzzer "on" - very common when extremely cold;

problems with the multi-function switch on the turn signal/wiper/washer stalk - "phantom wiper/washers" sometimes over bumps, while signalling turns and so on.

dangeranger88
01-15-2009, 12:32 PM
. . . Oh, and a couple of problems that are so common that they almost slipped my mind:

the door ajar light/buzzer "on" - very common when extremely cold;

problems with the multi-function switch on the turn signal/wiper/washer stalk - "phantom wiper/washers" sometimes over bumps, while signalling turns and so on.

I've read a lot about the door ajar problem--and I only experienced a little taste of it during the hot summer when I first got my truck. Now, it's like 15 degrees outside, and I haven't had the problem since. Weird! I probably just jinxed myself....

Also a problem I have is my door locks sometimes get stuck and my key doesn't want to open them...the passenger side won't open at all with my original key.

Beanmachine7000
01-15-2009, 02:13 PM
2000 Ranger 2.5, AT 188k miles, owned it since 20k miles on it...

1.) I have the same front end "clunk" a couple people noticed... Usually <20-35mph, especially when going over speed bumps... Checked it out, everything seems fine.
2.) Front drivers side wheel bearing needs replacing
3.) Acc. belt blew up at ~185k (luckily in the driveway)
4.) Transmission is sketchy, fluid in pan and filter changed every 6k miles since about 20k
5.) "Phantom wipers"
6.) Tailgate handle broke (I have to use a giant screwdriver to open the latch now)
7.) It makes the weirdest noises of any car I've driven, lol... Power steering pump whines, it makes some squeaky noise when you let off the accelerator, some kind of electric whirring noise, when you accelerate... etc.
8.) When you floor the pedal, the vents stop blowing (Vaccuum problem? My old '90 did it too...)
9.) Needs a new thermostat
10.) Sometimes when it's cold, you have to hold the gas to keep it running for a bit, and sometimes it stumbles when slowing down or idling, sometimes, but rarely it stalls, usually when coming to a stop, not sure what it is (throttle position sensor maybe?)

I'm sure there's something else... Honestly, it's been the most reliable vehicle we've owned, nothing has ever happened to it that has left me on the side of the road, in fact every Ford vehicle I've owned got me home every time... Can't say that about any other car, except the Camaro, but I've only put 3k miles on it... Compared to the 188K on this one...

ruppy22000
01-15-2009, 04:15 PM
Biggest Problems:

- Front driver's side hub is grinding (getting replaced)

- LBJs need replaced

- PVHs are crap (I made mine manual, AVMs are on order)

- Driveshaft clunk

- C/C Lights out on steering wheel

- Brake Drums locked up on me once

- Passenger side rear door (4-door) doesn't close unless you slam the S#^& out of it.

- AND THE MOST ANNOYING PROBLEM AWARD GOES TO: the mechanism that turns the blinker off when you straighten the wheel is broken... painfully annoying

3.0Ranger
01-15-2009, 08:34 PM
-front end clunk when going over speed bumps all seems to be fine though
-Automtic Hubs stop working replace now with AVM hubs
-Dash vibrtation while driving between 1,500-2,000rpms
-Rear chatter noise while driving


1998 Ford Raner 3.0 5-speed 4x4

dangeranger88
01-15-2009, 09:54 PM
-Dash vibrtation while driving between 1,500-2,000rpms

I've been noticing a "chatter" in the drivers side instrument panel when i reach 3,000rpms (often with the 3.0) its kind of annoying...anyone know what might cause this? Odometer cable?

pdmustgt
01-27-2009, 05:20 AM
Door Ajar light stay on sprayed the latch in the side doors. But only worked for abit replacing the latch door Ajar light gone now. Left PVH hub making noise fixed with Explorer hubs and axles. Tailgate rust out at the bottom.
Had the radio after playing CD's after a bit on the display show the words "HOT" fixed was 01 or 02 stock 6 disc radio

25,000 miles since change over to V8

superrocker10
01-30-2009, 01:33 AM
From my experience with my 99:

- The syncros in my 5 speed are almost non existent
- PVH Hubs. enough said
- Alternators (i dont think they like mud)
- Inner tie rods
- Through pins in the rearend. on my third one now
- Door ajar light
- Once in a blue moon, the rear drums will lock up on me
- pedal assembly
- Power steering pump noise (i think its a ford thing though)
-

cappin90
01-30-2009, 02:35 AM
-pvh hubs
-front drive shafts exploding
-auto transmission failure?
-door ajar, easy fix though

and on mine anyways, overheated once, melted part of the wiring harness and even after replacing sensors and wires still have random error codes that seem to pop up every 1k miles or so after getting them cleared.

98 ranger xlt
02-17-2009, 01:30 AM
. . . Oh, and a couple of problems that are so common that they almost slipped my mind:

the door ajar light/buzzer "on" - very common when extremely cold;

problems with the multi-function switch on the turn signal/wiper/washer stalk - "phantom wiper/washers" sometimes over bumps, while signalling turns and so on.

I have that problem sometimes, my wipers will be on the lowest setting and i hit a bump and theyre wiping fast.

pippinr
02-22-2009, 03:56 PM
2001 XLT: Purchased used, in April 2002 with 16,000 miles from a dealer.

*Passenger side brake caliper locked up, replaced.
*Front brakes wear unusually fast. I think I might check to see if I have rear brakes.
*Door ajar/domelight. Shut the back door firmly by the bottom of the door--seems to make it latch correctly. Soon to try some panther piss.
*Drive shaft used to "clunk", dealer replaced it--warranty right after I bought it. They said it was bent. No problems since.
*Wife hit a car and went sideways over a median. This is not a maufacuturer defect... operator error. Got some new paint, though. ***Did not knock it out of alignment! Apparently pretty tough!***
*Replaced shift motor on T-case. Then found out I didn't need to. Replaced relay under passenger side kick panel, fixed the problem.
*Put in fancy K&M air filter. Cleaned it and oiled it, then MAFS went out. Sprayed it with some cleaner, it helped. Probably too much oil in filter.
*Automatic shift handle sags. Haven't tried to figure out how to fix yet.
*Tranny "pauses" between 1&2... probably on it's way out. Should have changed fluid. (is brown and smelly bad?)
*Cranked t-rods a bit, no alignment problems yet, but 265-75R16 tires look really cool, and the truck is level. Only went up about 1.5 inches. We'll see if there are any future problems with that.
*Think I have a CV leaking on passenger side.
*When I replaced the s-belt, the spring tensioner started "clicking". Put the old belt back on, it went away. Put the new belt on, it was back again. Clicks when the label hits the tensioner. Time for a new one anyway, we'll see if the click goes away.
*I can't have a windshield for more than a month without it cracking.
*Steel supports in the backs of the seats break. New seats are like $6,000 or something ridiculous, so I guess I'll learn to have back problems.
*Plastic clip broke on the center console. Some twine holds it shut. Too lazy to find a better fix. Maybe I'll do that today...

Overall, not too many problems for a vehicle I have put 120,000 miles on after purchasing used.

JamesC
02-22-2009, 04:26 PM
2001 XLT: Purchased used, in April 2002 with 16,000 miles from a dealer.

*Put in fancy K&M air filter. Cleaned it and oiled it, then MAFS went out. Sprayed it with some cleaner, it helped. Probably too much oil in filter.
*Automatic shift handle sags. Haven't tried to figure out how to fix yet.
*Tranny "pauses" between 1&2... probably on it's way out. Should have changed fluid. (is brown and smelly bad?)


Your tranny problem is probably caused by your k&n filter. When the MAFS reads wrong because of oil contamination the computer shifts the transmission differently. I would put back your paper filter and clean the MAFS really good or change it before you do permanent damage to the transmission

pippinr
02-22-2009, 05:16 PM
Really? I cleaned it several times since the last oiling. I noticed an increase in performance when I first installed the K&N, but after the oiling, I started having problems. Maybe I'll chance the MAFS and see what happens. Do I need to disconnect the battery and re-boot after replacing the MAFS, or should the new one start sending correct info to the computer?

kawasakiman27
03-22-2009, 06:19 AM
Can that slow moving clunking noise over bumps everyone talks about be comming from the steering linkage or in the rack and pinion, cause I can feel it in the steering wheel.

DangerFresh
03-22-2009, 03:29 PM
i noticed alot of people have the same problem with the door ajar light/dome light. anybody know how to fix that....or where the switch itself is located?

43551RANGER
04-09-2009, 12:21 AM
-Had Ujoints replaced under Bumper to Bumper warranty @ about 30k miles. They put in Zerk fitted Ujoints upon request.
- New ball joints @90K mi
-ABS light comes on if I accelerate hard under 30mph. Goes off when truck is shut off & stays off until I rapidly accelerate under 30mph
- Brakes seem to be under sized & need rear discs
-IAC sticking at times
-Something wrong currently in 4wd mode -been told maybe front u joints or drive chain in transfer case (makes kinda a grinding/clicking noise)..
-tach will occasionly stop working for a few seconds & then start back up.

jgertsch
04-11-2009, 01:06 AM
I have a bottom of the line 2000 model (2.5L, manual everything) with about 160K miles, K&N intake & Magnaflow muffler. The idle is rough when cold. It starts fine, but when I come to a stop a few blocks away, the idle drops, sometimes enough for the engine to die. Other times, the idle speed is about right, it's just really rough. I haven't been able to figure out what's going on.

Other than that, the only problem is a leaky gas tank. I tried to fix it with JB Weld 2 part putty, but it only held for a few months. I think I might try some epoxy next. Anyone know if a '86 or '87 gas tank will fit on a 2000? They're the stupid plastic ones.

green_duck42
04-27-2009, 11:47 PM
1998 Ranger 3.0 4x4 98,000
I have broken and replaced
-2 collapsed shackles
-3 PVM hubs
-1 pair AVM hubs
-3 CV shafts
-radiator
-rear ring gear
-axle seal
-both front hub ass.
-frony left brake caliper (that was my own fault, put off replacing pads for way to long)
-console lid/armrest on my 60/40 split bench broke and i made a mahagony replacement
-locks were frozen(used a little WD-40 they work great now)
I still need to fix
-door ajar light
-mount on the muffler ripped off so now my exhaust really bounces around
-clutch cylinder is going(im probably destroying my transmission right now)
-brakes still are a bit sketch (they go from firm to soft without any recognizable pattern)
-engine just cut out. left me out in the woods. I have yet to diagnose problem im guessing the fuel pump is the culprit.

kerry
04-28-2009, 08:00 PM
I have also experienced the "door ajar" malady. In addition, I've had the dreaded seatbelt/air bag light on several occasions.

02RangerMan
05-04-2009, 05:23 PM
Nobody mentioned the sticking/grabby rear brakes when its really humid or raining. This was the case with my GEN3 with a 31 spline 8.8 as well as my 2002 with the 27spline 8.8. The 31spline was swaped in so i guess that can't be blamed on ford but the 27spline is stock.

gw33gp
05-05-2009, 12:52 PM
I have the seatbelt/airbag light come on occasionally. That is fixed by moving the connector in and out a few times. It only happens on the passenger side on my Ranger. This is probably my most annoying problem

I had to replace the PCV elbow that is located under the top radiator hose. They seem to disintegrate and apparently is a common failure.

I just replaced the fuel pump at 98K due to a bad pressure check valve.

I had a bad master cylinder that was replaced under warranty.

That transfer case was replaced under warranty due to a kind of clunking/slipping problem when accelerating in 4WD.

I keep up with all the normal maintenance stuff but do run an extended oil change interval.

I have bought a new serpentine belt but have not installed it yet.

Overall, I am very Happy with this Ranger and plan to keep it a long time.

polkat
05-05-2009, 01:10 PM
I had to extend my front diff vent tube venting oil out didnt like that. abs front sensor/tone ring all messed up to spendy right now to fix unpluged sensor now I have a ABS light shining at me. everyone else mentioned a few more but thats all folks

mookinator1313
05-20-2009, 10:36 AM
1999 3.0 FFV supercab XLT 4x4

door ajar light- my dome light doesnt work at all, so it doesnt bother me

the motor is really tappy from the valves

clutch... is made out of metal (my own fault)

there seems to be some sort of a knock under load, dont know what it is exactly, but the truck hasnt gone boom, and it started back in september 08

sincro's on 3rd and 4th are definately weraring out

my only real complaint is the lack of CV joints in the front

my poor truck has had a savage beating, but still takes it, and i love it

IT RAN AN 18 SECOND QUARTER MILE!!! (yea, that was the day the knocking started)

WillXLT98
05-20-2009, 11:27 AM
'98 3.0 Ext cab XLT 4x4 auto

Where to begin?! lol

-PCV valve
-DPFE sensor
-Broken leaf spring
-Both bearings/hubs
-PVH CRAP! Swapped for AVM
-Passenger side o2 sensor
-Alternator
-Dash lights aren't all working
-Friggin door ajar light
-Trans shifted BAD. Installed TransGo shiftkit with new EPC solonoid
-Clanking noise in rear at takeoff/slowing down. Im guessing driveshaft from what your all saying?
-Inability to make tires bald with 3.0 =MAJOR problem lol
-Trans cooler inside radiator leaked, replaced radiator
-Fuel pump was bad, replaced

Bought with 78k mi and now has 92k mi. Most of these were issues when i first got it, but others have jumped out and gotten worse in the mean time.
Thats about it for now, it seems every week theres something new...

I love this truck to death though. No matter how much hell it gives me.

hmiwb
06-03-2009, 03:51 PM
5000 miles and no complaints at all. Very good truck so far. I've owned two Rangers, a Courier, an S10 and a Sonoma in small pickups. This is the best of the bunch so far.

idriveafordranger94
06-28-2009, 07:31 PM
Even though this is for '98 and newer Rangers, I see a lot of the same problems with my '94.

-The OHV 4.0L "ticks"
-My power steering is really loud.
-When I let off the gas at 30mph + the driveshaft "clunks"
-When I am come to a complete stop the truck lurches back and kinda slides and clunks. Same thing happens when I accelerate from a complete stop.
-Idle speed seems to fluctuate (Is this the IAC problem everyone has been talking about?)

WNY964x4
06-28-2009, 07:39 PM
Even though this is for '98 and newer Rangers, I see a lot of the same problems with my '94.

-The OHV 4.0L "ticks"
-My power steering is really loud.
-When I let off the gas at 30mph + the driveshaft "clunks"
-When I am come to a complete stop the truck lurches back and kinda slides and clunks. Same thing happens when I accelerate from a complete stop.
-Idle speed seems to fluctuate (Is this the IAC problem everyone has been talking about?)

that describes evey ford ever built , for some reason , Fords tend to have noisy power steering pumps

JohnnyO
06-29-2009, 08:47 AM
Nobody mentioned the sticking/grabby rear brakes when its really humid or raining. This was the case with my GEN3 with a 31 spline 8.8 as well as my 2002 with the 27spline 8.8. The 31spline was swaped in so i guess that can't be blamed on ford but the 27spline is stock.
I had that problem on my old '99. It was still on warranty at the time, so I took it to the dealer. They put on new rear brakes and it was fine after that.

Jon581
07-02-2009, 01:54 PM
my truck has one problem when you turn the wheel all the way to the right while moving it makes a clunking noise the left side does not do it, has any body else had this problem?also it only has 13,000 miles on it

stews4
07-06-2009, 06:55 PM
I have had the same problem with the dome light and the "door ajar" light. I ended up d/cing my dome light temporarily so that it didnt drain my battery while I was at work.

GeorgiaBoy 87
07-09-2009, 01:45 AM
2004 Ranger Suber cab 5spd 2wd:
I've replaced the TPS at 74,000 miles.

clutch pedal clip broke (plastic).so the cylinder would pop off of the pedal. hence no clutch.

Rifleman
07-09-2009, 02:15 AM
On my 2006 XLT 4x4 the only thing I've had any issue with was the AC compressor clutch. It has made noises since day one off the assembly line.

Local FLM Dealer told me before they started they have VERY little luck in curing the noise issues. Stated it was due to the size of the compressor and the way the clutch is made to engage without dropping engine RPMs causing odd noises during normal operation. They made several adjustments on several seperate visits. Finally they got it to where the only noticable noise (and WOW is it noticable, people step back when it makes it's noise) is a "grinding" when the compressor kicks on for the first time. They advised against attempting to change the compressor, although they would do so under warranty should I request it. They showed me the same thing on 4 out of 5 of their new Rangers on the lot (first one just happened to work without noises), said changing the compressor created risk of leakage later on and I should live with it, I have without any regret...

On a good note though, I'm now over 60k miles and the AC works flawless beyond that initial noise from the compressor clutch. It has always put out VERY cold air and will easily freeze you out of the truck on a 100F day. Leave it run full blast on a hot humid day in the shade with it sealed up and return 5 minutes later to every inch of every window covered in condensation. Can feel it blowing out the door handles which will get wet from condensation as well. (I do not do this as I fear what the water will do to the insides of my doors, but it's happened)

MountainMike
07-20-2009, 02:27 PM
Only a couole things

1) Noisy power steering pump
2) I leak of something that looks like PS fluid on the passenger side A-arm (my buddy's 99 and oa couple other around town have it too) Looks like its coming off the tie-rod boot, any ideas?
3) Little bit of valve noise when the engine is worked to go up a steep grade, no big deal just get a good run and keep the revs up
4) Sometimes hard shfter and a PITA to get in first when going slow
5) Strange chinking noise when I take off in first

Overall very happy with my truck

Doofy
08-09-2009, 02:47 PM
Damn fine little Truck! 103,000miles and the only irritation has been the door ajar problem. The seats are not the most comfortable but,hey, it isn't a luxury sedan. The battery crapped out after 10 years and I added a set of helper springs to the rear end. It starts down to -40 without having to plug in the block heater. What more could a person want? It also gets 21mpg. This is twice the truck my wife's 96 Nissan is.

ddorancalif
08-19-2009, 02:35 AM
I have a power steering wheeze at more than a 1/4 turn in either direction. Have Truxx leveling torsion bars and 32" (ish) tires. Think that's a major contributor, but that's my only bitch. All in all I love it!

rngr4x4beast
09-07-2009, 01:58 AM
tie rods rub inside of my rotors
rear brakes lock up wen rainy or really humid
both front doors rattle bad on bumpy roads
noisy power steering pump
thats all for now but ive only put 10000 miles on it currently has almost 104000 still goin strong and i beat the shit out of it

4x4Hick
09-11-2009, 02:00 PM
I have a 98 mazda b4000, the biggest problem I have had with my truck has been the electronic GEM module in the dash.This module controls the windshield wipers, dome light and transfer case. (that i know of) Other than that its been a pretty good truck. The 4.0 handles the 35" tires with no problem.

4x4Hick

mentalbreakdown00
09-15-2009, 02:03 PM
haven't read all the pages, but balljoints on these the boots rot and then they sqeak. Moog makes an upper control arm with a replaceable greasable ball joint to help things.

flippin4x4
09-19-2009, 10:58 AM
I have a 2004 FX4 and have the clunk on initial acceleration, a pinging problem when the weather is warm (even after cleaning the MAF) and using good gasoline with no trouble codes, the door ajar dome light demons, driving light adjusters that have a mind of their own. Even with all that fun the only way I'd trade is for another one.

Charlville
09-28-2009, 04:03 PM
A lot the same as the other posts plus, rust behind the front grille, chassis/rad mount area.

Kingoverace
10-03-2009, 02:32 PM
well I'm not going to list everything thats ever went on my trucks like some of these people...but from both my 98 ranger xlts, and readin the same threads over and over, I'd say...
1.) Between EGR valve and O2 sensor.
2.) ball jionts w/ or w/o cranked T-bars
3.) door adjar.... WD-40 will work for a year till you have problems again...then spray again lol

everything else is common in anything....a squeaky pulley here and there, thermostat,belts.
Otherwise pplz member..spossed to be a compact pick-up and some these ppl are looking for torque and hp of a f150 lol, great v8 swap if you really want it, but stop trying to accelerate faster then that Stang even though grandmas driving it LOL!!

Kingoverace
10-11-2009, 03:30 AM
Scratch the door adjar lol. Now that I think about it, a more serious issue, always poeple asking between fuel pumps and fuel filters. Usually something not gettin fuel to the engine.

seethru
10-11-2009, 01:08 PM
wrt:
Heater resisters get corroded and tend to only work on high.
Is there any reason that the resister can't be relocated?
I don't see why it has to be in the blower box.

98 Ranger

b50bsa
10-13-2009, 08:24 PM
wrt:
Heater resisters get corroded and tend to only work on high.
Is there any reason that the resister can't be relocated?
I don't see why it has to be in the blower box.

98 Ranger

They use the air flow in the blower box to keep them cool.

flyinfairlane
11-07-2009, 09:12 AM
The truck sits alot more than its driven. Lately it has been getting gas in the oil. I checked it and it was half way up the dipstick?? So I changed the oil and now it is running rough and it just falls on its face when I try to accelerate? Recently I have replaced the coil pack, ignition box, and the throttle position sensor. I tried to post a new thread and it wont let me in this general discussion area??? Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks, Brock

ozziemo27
11-21-2009, 12:33 AM
1. PVH Hubs, blew em out, then blew my AVMs out now im going back to PVHs but w/ the manual conversion...
2. Alternator bearings, alternator works but squeeled like an SOB til i threw a new one in...
3. Pinion seal......
4. Wheel hubs.... i could wobble them... literally... replaced both of those suckers...

can't think of anything else atm...

Tader82
11-21-2009, 08:32 AM
i put 4 trans in mine, till i build one my self. trans is a 4r44e the lite weight of the ranger trans

grey
12-05-2009, 12:57 AM
I have an '08 and all my problems have been pretty minor...
The AC is noisy on engagement(seems to be normal)
The rear doors take a bit of force to latch properly(doesnt really matter, i only use them maybe twice a month)
Every once in a while it doesn't start on the first crank(has happened 3 times...at random, never happens at the dealership)

Other than those issues I haven't had anything blow up yet at 28000km.
Shes not even broke in yet :headbang:

kshack11
12-08-2009, 09:01 PM
my auto locking hubs on my 98 suck, i cant get it to engage so i think ill have get manual locking.

spatsumbri
12-17-2009, 09:37 AM
my auto locking hubs on my 98 suck, i cant get it to engage so i think ill have get manual locking.

The truck sits alot more than its driven. Lately it has been getting gas in the oil. I checked it and it was half way up the dipstick?? So I changed the oil and now it is running rough and it just falls on its face when I try to accelerate? Recently I have replaced the coil pack, ignition box, and the throttle position sensor. I tried to post a new thread and it wont let me in this general discussion area??? Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks, Brock

bottomshot
12-19-2009, 08:14 PM
2001 2.5

-door locks sticking
-interior light demons (both glove box and dome light have given me problems)
-very squeaky front suspension (ball joints maybe)
-oil pressure communicator died at about 37k miles. this causes my oil pressure gauge to think i have no oil pressure until the engine warms up, at which point the pressure reading spikes up to accurate levels. kind of weird and never bothered replacing.
-rack & pinion is going

the truck's got 85k on it and has never given me any real problems

*edit* thought of one more-
-the clearcoat ont he truck is peeling and completely trashed. it's only 8 years old. this, in my opinion, constitutes it being defective.

Shadow Death
12-21-2009, 12:09 AM
Where to start?

1999 2.5L

- Passenger side window will not roll down (motor rivets coming loose, been like that since 51k)
- "Phantom Whipers"
- Seems to have a minor lope in 4th gear on hot days.
- Can't keep spark plugs past 10K - 20K miles without melting the electrodes, not even specified Motocraft plugs.
- Almost always has a misfire with no codes thrown.
- Rear ABS sensor dies suddenly and stops sending speed information to the Speed-O (1999 specific problem)
- Almost impossible to find a T-stat that fits at any parts store except for the Dealership.
- Driver side door lock switch stopped working. (stopped after I left the window down and it rained, it works when it's wet though.)
- Driver side door lock will barely push the lock open then fall back into the lock position. (this is a 50-50 shot).
- The key will not unlock the door on the driver side, but it will on the passenger side after playing with it a bit.
- Shifter knob pops off in the middle of shifting, finally split in half.
- Annoying rattle from the rear sliding window.
- 4th gear is entirely too tall in comparison to 3rd. (5 speed manual)


I won't add this to the list but TWICE just twice, the headlights shut off while I was driving. Then came back on, no warning nothing. Not even a flicker, I reached for the knob both times and before I could touch it, they came back on. That was earlier this year, no problems like that since.

RacinNdrummin
12-31-2009, 02:47 PM
My last truck was 1999 2wd 2.5 supercab, 5 speed XLT, manual everything....

I owned it from 60k-130k....

-Phantom wipers
-Bad Alternator
-Timing belt broke

Otherwise it was a goodtruck....

My current truck is a 2005 2wd supercab 3.0 5 speed BASE model XL, only option is AC...

I have owned it since it was new, and have put 99k on it...

-Inertia switch
-Fuel pump check valve?? (yet to diagnose, it take about 10 seconds of turning over, or 3 key switches to fire up)

Otherwise not one problem with it....

babytruck
01-04-2010, 05:28 PM
The timing chain cover leaking anti-freeze at the block.

jfisher
01-05-2010, 02:21 PM
No real problems out of mine yet, but a while ago I also had the weird no start until the 3rd or 4th crank. It stumbled and died the first two times then fired right up on the next crank and has run perfectly fine ever since.

Anytime I engage cruise control, I can hear a nice grinding noise behind my cluster. It goes off immediately as soon as the cruise is turned off.

The blower fan (I'm assuming that's what it is) behind the glovebox can be noisy at times.

Nl_jester
01-16-2010, 01:22 PM
I've had trouble with the rear brakes & it seems like I've seen a few other posts mentioning similar problems.


Yes sir a few minnor problems with the rear drums the self adjusters get to tight and break, if you do your own brake work its an easy fix just leave them off and check the adjusters a few times a month, went though two sets of shoes and hardware kits before I figured this one out and no troubles scence :headbang:

ShiftRacing
01-22-2010, 05:11 PM
Personally, I've experienced mostly electrical issues with mine...

- O/D Light Flashing On & Off
- Ignition Parts Fail Constantly
- Rear Work Light Doesn't Go On When Door Is Opened
- Door Ajar Switches
- The Chime I Desoldered From The Board, I Don't Know Why It Always Went Off
- Etc...

crusin93
01-25-2010, 01:04 AM
I've dirven my 87' 4x4 2.9L for years with very few issues, other than general maintence. I recently purchased a 1998 4.0 4x4 with a few of the problems mentioned in this thread. I would love to learn more about the "Gem" module as the 4wd hi works fine however, I get no indicator light or acuation when switching to 4 low. I also noticed that the HVAC blower motor only works on the hi setting. I assumed a replacement blower motor would remedy the problem. Further reading of this post raises questions about a heater resistor? What's that and whats it's function? I'm not tagging or insuring the 98' until it's as good or better than it came from ford, so this "special attention" to 98' up rangers is great! Glad I have another Ranger to tinker with!

bigcountry2403
02-04-2010, 08:34 PM
Vibration from the rear end at speeds over 65MPH. Actually seems more like a buzzing sensation in your @$$ and in the gear selector. Tires and wheels are new, true and balanced. No one can seem to figure it out. U-joints apear to be in good condition and the bearings are good. If anyone else has this problem let me know.

Ya is it 4x4 cause we had to change the drive shaft to fix

Fargo Wolf
02-07-2010, 03:10 PM
Here's the list on my 04 Ranger:

Takes forever to start if there's less than 3/4 tank of gas
Hard to get the truck moving from my parking spot. (Major clunk, the truck jerks free. Usually when it's fairly cold out. Had to put it into Low Range on a couple of occasions)
Pressure leak somewhere causing the "Check Engine" light to come on. Mechanic at local Ford Dealership told me not to worry about it. (Hasn't been a problem thanks to the cooler weather)
Needs a wheel alignment and new ball joints. (Will be taking the truck in before too long)

Bob58
02-10-2010, 02:29 PM
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger, it is a 2.5L 4 cylinder, automatic trans. The problem is that after I fill it up with gas or when I stop and turn the vehicle off for 5 or 10 minutes after it is warmed up, then start it and drive, it seems like it is not getting any gas and wants to stall, I have to let up on the pedal and play around with it for several minutes before it stops. I have had it to 3 service stations, including Ford, and they replaced the IAC, Throttle position sensors and it still does this. When I drive it without stopping and turning it off, it seems to be fine.

Thanks for your time
Bob58

JimJa1943
03-15-2010, 01:53 PM
'05, 44,000 miles, 4x4, 4.0L, 5sp manual, 4-dr. L/S w/3.73 gears.

I've had...humm...let's see...nope, none, zip, nada.

Just change oil/filter and inspect a couple of times a year and every three years change anti-freeze and flush brake fluid. Otherwise that's it.

Recent new tires. Alignment checked ATT. Tech said to watch lower ball joints. They are a weak link beginning at about 80,000 miles.

Original_Ranger84
03-23-2010, 10:17 PM
1999 Ranger 4x4, 3.0L, 5spd, 4 door, stepside bed.

The oil gauge likes to not work for a minute or two in cold weather. (soon to be fixed)
The 4x4 hubs would only engage for 30sec - 1 minute at a time (fixed)

And thats it, oh and the clutch is going out I think for a different reason (got stuck and someone got in while I was calling and thought they could get it out and thoguht they were spinning tires and smoking em (which I beat the crap out of him for) when it was really the clutch.)

RangerSkate28
03-24-2010, 12:10 AM
Nice thread idea

2000 4x4, 3.0 flex, auto, live axle
That dang check engine light that keeps coming on haha.

-The EGR system has some flaws but usually the DPFE
-Unservicable wheel hubs/bearings

4.0 forever
03-24-2010, 03:03 PM
The only thing I can think to add to wvcat's post is the typical driveshaft thud/clunk when starting to accelerate and when coming to a stop.

yeah whats with that? is it a u-joint problem or what?

JimJa1943
05-15-2010, 08:16 PM
Reread all the posts today and have some comments that may help ("may" being the operative word here.

Alternator. I noted in both of North44's cases his battery was three or more years old. Just replaced the alternator in a friend's 4-cyl last week...along with the four year old battery Is it possible the alternator is not robust enough to handle a weak battery? Check your battery. If it's weak replace it. Repeatedly asking your alternator to charge a weak battery can cause failure, particularly if the alternator is not heavy duty enough.

Blend Door. Google it in the Explorer forums. The servo is on the top of the heater plentum and the dash must be removed to get at it. There is a little piece of plastic that breaks. This can be fixed from the bottom and involves some "cut and paste." Never done it, but it was an issue some time ago.

Hub failure (late models). First clue may be anti-lock brake light. The bearing fails and misaligns the anti-lock sensor. Had it happen on my '00 Explorer. Tech said there is no telling when failure will occur. Sometimes new, sometimes never.

Tailgate handle. Look on e-bay and buy a metal one. Then keep your mechanism well lubed (chain lube is great for this). Also push in the tailgate as you open. Breakage is caused by the latch dragging against the receiver.

Transfer case servo motor. The motor drives a worm gear with finger contacts on the cover. Before replacing clean them up. Use a pencil eraser to "rough them up" a little. If that doesn't work, take the motor apart and clean the armature. They are not made to be taken apart, but with a little persuasion you can do it. I did it on my '92 Explorer and never had a problem after that.

Locks. Early 2000 - ?? models (the ones with 9-10-11? tumblers in the lock -look at your key to see) use the first few tumblers to work the ignition and the rear tumblers to work the door (or the other way around) - hence the long key. If you don't use the key in the lock once in awhile the lock can get rust and fail just when you need it most. This is also true because the back of the lock mechanism is "open" to the elements. Before you have to use it, spray some penatrating oil and work the lock if it's stuck. Otherwise use it once in a while for grins.

Thermostat. Watch your gauge closely. Over time has it crept downwards on the scale? The original Ford units were made by Bosch. These had a habit of - over time - failing to close, allowing the engine to run cooler than it should. Two problems from this. Heater doesn't work worth a hoot, and the engine does not get out of the cold cycle loop causing your economy to drop by 2-3 MPG.

Can't help with any thing else. As I said in a previous post, my '05 is doing very well so far. Very happy. Do wish the seats were better and had more support. At 6'2" w/out cruise control I wouldn't be able to drive it the long distances I do.

98RedRanger
05-31-2010, 06:33 PM
DPFE sensor! Once every 6 months it takes a crap. Inexpensive part and has a 2 year warranty from autozone so i've only paid for one. Still annoying I belive the code is P1501 could be wrong on that.

Yeah I've had the same problem but it doesn't effect anything it just keeps the check engine light on. Only other problem I've had with my truck is just the driveshaft clunk when im getting it going early morning other than that it never happens and I haven't had any other problems with it.

Willzzz777
06-21-2010, 11:23 PM
my 2.5l 99 has this unsolved tapping noise.
power steering pump noise
heater regulator plug problem (they rust up and then don't work) i've had mine fixed.
it's a pain in the ass to change intake side spark plugs.

Ranger Sport Honduras
06-21-2010, 11:33 PM
my 99 2.5 has the valve tapping too. i replaced the steering pump and it still whines
and the oil sender acts like original_84ranger posted. takes a minute or so to jump up to normal.

when starting it cold the acelerator acts weird too. i have to let it warm up for about a min or 2 or it wont acelerate.
theres no CEL and iac is new. it always had that issue, since i got it.

Willzzz777
06-21-2010, 11:36 PM
no it's not valves on my truck. we've tried 2 different heads it does the same damn thing. the bottom end is all new. i'm thinking it's EGR related.

Ranger Sport Honduras
06-21-2010, 11:46 PM
ohh then it might be another reason for it.

adding to the list: squeaky/clunky front susp. everything is fairly new, but i think the lift spacers have to do with the clunk. the squeaks are common, since my bro's 00 and moms 03 do it.
sometimes the e brake wont disengage after driving on rain and let the truck sit for the night with the e brake.

the 03 2.3 has the check engine and check fuel cap lights on. seems to be something with the evap canister or something like that.

Ranger Sport Honduras
06-22-2010, 12:35 AM
fuel pump died at 114,xxx approx.


on the last shop trip with CEL on and runningh like crap, pouring black smoke i replaced the IAC and o2 sensor
along with both coolant temp sensors.

since that runs like a champ :)

Buckmaster14
07-12-2010, 12:54 AM
Replaced Control arms
Door ajar light
Replaced both front rotors and boots on both sides
Airbag light is on, and stays on everytime i start my truck ( how do i fix? )
Squeek on left side everytime i hit a small bump
metal clunking noise at idle ( comes and goes)
sensitive brakes in the rain, normal on sunny days
tailgate latch broke

Daniel_187
07-12-2010, 11:30 AM
Replaced Control arms
Door ajar light
Replaced both front rotors and boots on both sides
Airbag light is on, and stays on everytime i start my truck ( how do i fix? )
Squeek on left side everytime i hit a small bump
metal clunking noise at idle ( comes and goes)
sensitive brakes in the rain, normal on sunny days
tailgate latch broke

I hear you on the brakes when its wet out mine does the same thing, Does the airbag light flash at all?

Buckmaster14
07-12-2010, 03:05 PM
Does the airbag light flash at all?

yup, when i start my truck the light will flash about 10 times and stay on

Daniel_187
07-13-2010, 12:34 PM
yup, when i start my truck the light will flash about 10 times and stay on

its flashing a code of some sort mine would flash (i think) 2(flashs) pasue and 7(flashs) code 2-7, it would do this a few times and then say on. I found out it was had something to do with the airbag sensor on my passnager side seat. I pulled the neg battery cable and opend the sensor and cleaned it and put some conduting lube in there and now it does not do it. if you count the code on it some guys on here might be able to tell you what it is. Like BigJim

SpeedNinja
09-07-2010, 05:55 PM
Noisy sway bar mounts.

Replace them with greasable Energy Suspension mounts and you'll be good. (Did this on my 2000 and my brother's 2002.)

out cast
09-14-2010, 04:21 AM
Issues I've had...

1) phantom wipers
2) synchros in manual
3) tailgate not shutting properly
4) 4lo not working
5) center console broke (60/40 bench) so now it's like a valley

johnnyboy110
10-07-2010, 01:58 AM
I have 133,000 on my 99 3.0 auto and I have a airbag light (I think it due to the pass turn off switch being gay) and and ABS light on. The ABS dosn't work but I hate ABS anyway so I don't care. The one that pisses me off the most is my trans.
For whatever reason, when at highway speeds the the trans shift fine for the first 20-25min. Then, it pops out of overdrive and a "OD OFF" light blinks.:icon_confused: shut it off and back on and everything works for a bit. No codes or anything. I hate automatics.

TwoTrackMind
10-09-2010, 07:27 PM
What are some of the problems encountered in the 1998 and newer Rangers that are specific to those models?

I don't have anything new to add. Just that on my one vehicle, I've had most everything thats been brought up here.

But thanks for asking.

Apollo-Soyuz 1975
10-09-2010, 08:14 PM
On my '98 4-cylinder Ranger:


Strange repetitive squeaking noise under acceleration. I think it may be time to replace the U-joints. Noise either fades out or becomes too high-pitched to hear above ~25mph.
Water leak at top of rear window. Unsure if it is the seal or if there is a crack in the window frame. Wondering if there is a TSB for this. (and yes, I already have caulked my cab light!)
PITA driver's-side spark plug replacement procedure. I intentionally broke the "handle" off the number-3 plug wire connector before I figured out the proper way to install new plug wires. LOL woops :icon_twisted:
Squeaking/buzzing exhaust system. Annoying :annoyed:
Inboard left-front brake pad seized in the caliper bracket and wore out prematurely (during a 600-mile road trip :annoyed:). Replaced pads and caliper bracket; lubed the heck out of the new bracket with 3M 08946 silicone paste before installing new pads.
HVAC temperature blend door. Top axle shaft broke in half. Just bought the Heatertreater kit and will perform the fix on my next day off work. And this time, I'll be smart and remove the pass. airbag assembly to reinstall the blend door motor.
Spark knock under engine load at highway speeds. Observed in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears depending on engine load, throttle input, etc. Haven't been on the freeway yet since I changed plugs; will update.
Grinding gears on the 2-3 upshift. I have the TSB about the 4th-gear synchro that is the root of this problem, but I'm way too broke to have my tranny cracked open to fix the problem. :bawling:

87Ranger4wd
10-20-2010, 03:26 PM
bought my 99' 3.0 XLT with 120,000 miles. immediatly had to replace;
-drive belt and tensioner
-grease drive shaft to stop clunk
-solder on new bulb to airbag off indicator to turn off dash light
-replace a few gauge lights
-WD40 the shit out of door hinges to get dome light to turn off
-pulled abs bulb from gauges, since i cant get the abs light out
-change brake pads, cheap replacement ones absorbed water when it rained and locked up
-gearing up to change cam synchro before it dies & destroys my engine

Indecision
10-20-2010, 06:22 PM
I have that weird clunk front drivers side too, it happens when I turn left or hit a bump . how do I know for sure if its a bushing a spring or tie rod ? Is there a sure way to tell ? Is it best to just replace everything at once ? will I do more harm to it by driving it until I can fix it ?





Thanks
New Ranger owner used Ranger 2000 XLT Automatic :icon_bounceblue:

Ruffinit
10-21-2010, 07:48 PM
2003 XLT "Splash"/ 5 spd / 2.3 duratec / 2wd / 97K miles

Replaced brake pads with NAPA ceramics.. wow, what a difference.

Thermostat stuck open last week. In replacing it I found out the Ranger's 2.3s from '01 to '03 had a thermostat which is a one-piece housing, thermostat, temp sensor.. costs between $100 and $200 depending on where you purchase. The '04s and up are able to have the thermostat replaced independently.

The IMRC isn't functioning causing a "check engine" light, but I haven't replaced the valve or the control motor and have run it the last 60,000 without issue.

quickle69
10-27-2010, 04:14 PM
iv had mine for about a year now and the problems i have encountered so far are:
1. DPFE sensor
2. dome light
3.airbag light
4.door ajar light, but im sure thats the switch failurfe
5.sealed wheel bearings went bad
6.slip yoke cluck during acceleration
7.vacuum hose tearing causing rough idle
8. caliper seized up
9.tailgate latch sticking, broke it off and just replaced

as a new ranger owner reading this post has definitley helped me fix just about very problem iv been having thanks guys

4Nik8
11-06-2010, 07:43 PM
searched for this but no solution,

2005 Sport 2wd Manual 5 speed 4.10 gears
cruise control does not work, light will not even come on.

I tried pulling up on pedals , checked the fuse , checked for vacuum leak.
non of those revealed any resluts, I can hear air movement under the hood but think its just air going threw intake.

Anyone else?

tobyduck
11-10-2010, 12:05 AM
on the 4.0, the IAC valve has a black knob like thing on it. Take that sucker off and get some needle nose pliers or something and separate the cap of the knob from the part that connects to the IAC valve. There is like two little circles of cotton that acts as a filter, if there isn't enough air getting through it will start making that noise. Take a cotton ball and pinch off a little bit and replace, simple. But when you go to do that I recommend that you take the whole valve off and get like a q-tip or something and wipe around in the valve itself. If you get any excess liquid in the valve though, it screws it up cause it messes with the electric motor in it somehow

tobyduck
11-10-2010, 12:08 AM
and there is something wrong with the air conditioning on those trucks that they get stuck on defrost mode. I haven't figured it out yet and can't get my hand on a vacuum diagram for the air conditioning. I know that there is two lines running from the firewall to the engine and the white line isn't hooked up to anything on mine but I can't find a connector for it

nb11
01-04-2011, 10:44 PM
2003 2.3l 2wd,
Bad water pump at 140,000 mi
Plastic fitting that sends coolant to heater coil broke... That was a mess
Some sort of plug on under side of intake manifold came out, dealer glued it back in (I couldn't find the vacuum leak it caused)
Cruise control doesn't work
Sometimes grinds when shifting from second to third
Once upon a time the throwout bearing in the clutch made horrible noises and clutch stopped working for a couple days... 25,000 mi later no noise and clutch works fine.

derangedranger92
01-09-2011, 11:16 AM
Well i dont have a newer Ranger but my dad does and i work on it lol so here they are.
1. Spring shackes
2. Upper and lower ball joints
3. Tie rod ends
4. Door ajar switch
5. Rack and pinion
Other than that hes got 210,000 miles on it all original drivetrain and still going strong.

RangerJack
01-17-2011, 01:34 PM
I just replaced the brake light switch due to having no brakes lights/tail lights and now the back up and license plate marker lights are not working..I have checked fuses and bulbs.

redneck243
03-01-2011, 12:13 PM
99 V6 3.0 flex 4X4 114,00 on it
1) shift sensor thing on trans
2) new trans....had it in 4x4 in a snow storm for 4hrs and chewed up and spit out reverse
3) rear pinon seal
4) rear speed sensor
5) just took out the guts of 4x4 hubs casue the would not work or lock at random
6) and as with all NY trucks frame rust in rear and has to be fixed so i can get the new hangers on
and all the other stuff brought up here

ihateusernames
03-03-2011, 09:16 AM
anyone have any suggestions as to were to start if my check engine light is coming on? I have a 00 Ranger XLT. Runs strong, clutch seems fine, the light just came on this morning driving to work

tobyduck
03-06-2011, 01:24 PM
The IAC valve humming noise can be fixed easy instead of buying it used or new. That black cap on the side is actually an air filter. just pop it off (it might take some muscle, don't be scared that it will break off) take some needle noses pliers and take the cap apart. The outer cylinder and the inside, between those two pieces are two small circles of thin cotton. Mine were black because they were so dirty, I pinched some cotton off a cotton ball (not alot, because you don't want it to get clogged because that's what causes the noise) and just put it back together.

lilgreenranger
03-21-2011, 09:21 PM
is there a forum on the pulse vac hubs

Cheezno6
03-22-2011, 02:38 PM
Mine does the damnedest thing every Friday.

Pulls into the parking lot of closest strip bar and dies. Won't restart for at least 2-3 hours.

Haven't figured it out yet

Wildcat
03-24-2011, 02:41 PM
I keep getting an EGR code when the engine light comes on, I have replaced the EGR valve twice and the EGR Solenoid. I continue to get a check engine light. The economy in the vehicle has gotten worse as well. Can not find any vacuum leaks and I have changed the spark plugs. Sorry, this is a 1999 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 engine and 4X4.

bg@f.ord
04-02-2011, 10:06 PM
I had to replace the fuel pump.@ about 120K I lost compression on a cylinder & had heads rebuilt,Batt.& Alt.wore out(expected).Rear diff. starting to slip & (min.) leak.I CRANKED my torsions but I installed the proper camber kit & got a lifetime alignment.31" BFG's aren't cheap.My fat a$$ & a friend fell on our ass after breaking the tailgate cables!!The seats suck a$$.I drilled ,macgyvered & installed high grade 1/4-20 hardware by the ratchet shaft & now it's solid,but the upper back support welds broke.I was told I have a cool ganqsta lean now.I hate the angle.Wrecking yard get ready.Still probably my favorite ride everrrrr!!!:headbang::beer::icon_bounceblue:

rustedthrough
05-04-2011, 09:41 PM
Oil pressure gauge flickers wildly on idling down from highway speed, straightens up at 1,000 rpm, flickers again below 1,000. No odd performance, no shaking, just the gauge. Should I be afraid?
2001 3.0, auto, 2wd

RangerManxlt98
05-11-2011, 04:47 AM
Lets start off with I LOVE MY TRUCK, But My truck does not love me.
90k miles on it i've had it since it had 49k

So far I've had to replace the Following,
A. Alternator 2x
B. Wheel Bearings 4x (yes had an alignment the first time.
C. Battery.
D. E break cable
E. Leaf springs
F. Leaf Shackles
G. Lead Hangers
H. Rear Shocks
I. Tailgate Assembly (latch and all)
J. Had to weld the frame on both sides, in the rear about a foot section.
K. Inner tie rods
L. Outer tie rods.

Now lets get to things i need to replace

A. Door Ajar switch
B. Wheel bearings Again...
C. Clutch, i have one for it.
D. Front Shocks
E. Heat controller? ( the fan speed only works on High.
F. The Exhaust ( where the manifold Connects to the Pipe down to the cat.

And thats my ford ranger :P a lot of time in this truck and plan to keep it for a lot longer.

Oh Ps, sounds like my valves are rattling as well Not sure what it is. Oh and my truck cool's down REALLLLLLLLLLYYYYYY fast for some reason Anyidea's? I mean its not a bad thing for it to cool down stupid fast ( time frame of 3-10 mins) but i would like to know why :P thanks!!!!

RangerManxlt98
05-12-2011, 03:15 AM
Mine does the damnedest thing every Friday.

Pulls into the parking lot of closest strip bar and dies. Won't restart for at least 2-3 hours.

Haven't figured it out yet

That has to be the best ranger ever. Ford should put a navi in the rangers and have it preset to Take you to the closest Strip bar, and Won't restart for at least 2-3 hours. I'd call it the Ford Ranger Win.

Green04Fx4
05-14-2011, 10:16 PM
rear upper shock mounts! went to change my rear shocks on my 04 with 94k upper mount stud was stripped out when i went to remove the nuts off both of them. after screwing around with trying to cut the stud off knock it out to install a new stud i just cut both mounts 0ff the frame(attached with 3 large rivets) and got new mounts.

Spiky
05-17-2011, 12:44 AM
PV Hubs do suck. Mine finally stopped working at all. So I made them into "manual" hubs.

The biggest problem I have had is both cylinder heads cracked. (I have 98' 4.0) Once I replaced them with aftermarket european castings,( thats what the machine shop guy told me), all is fine. Apparently, there is not enough mass to disipate heat properly and they get a small crack between the intake and exhaust valve seats.

phantomlord
06-08-2011, 11:47 PM
98 Ranger XLT, 2.5L, 5 speed with 114k miles that I bought new off the lot

factory and/or design stuff
1) Instrument cluster is a bit flaky. Tach rarely works (but shows up on my odb2 scanner, indicating the problem is in the cluster or the wiring going to it). Speedometer usually works but can fail to either a sensor failure (code comes up Speed Sensor A but it is intermittent and the sensor itself tests fine with a multimeter, leading me to think it is in the wiring and/or harness) or through the same way the tach fails (works on scanner but not cluster). Also lost a couple lights in the cluster next to the tach and speedo that I figure are probably shorting out. Oh, and I had the dealer replace the oil pressure gauge before taking it home since it didn't work on my test drive.
2) door ajar sensors
3) balancer came off drive shaft
4) alternator
5) lower radiator hose clamp lost tension leading to coolant leakage
6) fan speed resistor and harness
7) EGR hose
8) seized passenger caliper
9) driver's side window occasionally gets loose and won't fully close
10) high idle until I come to a full stop (probably related to my speedometer problem) <- cleaned the IAC and the idle is now fixed
11) seal on the back window was leaking
12) multi-switch gets flaky sometimes and will make a clicking noise rather than activating turn signals, wiper spray sometimes fails to work
13) coolant temperature sensor
14) felt some springs break in the seat back on the driver's side
15) shifter knob came off in the middle of shifting
16) plastic tab on passenger seat belt that allows height adjustment broke off
17) arm rest latch snapped off

just going to happen in NY after 13 years
1) rusted bottom of tailgate, door bottoms starting
2) wheel wells rusting out (flareside, so only the inner metal, not the external fiberglass. bed floor is fine at this point)
3) muffler and tailpipe, both twice
4) I notice rusted-through grounding straps all over the place

stuff that is more due to wear, use and/or road conditions (doesn't help that my town's roads were torn up for two years)
1) universals
2) linkage stabilizers
3) upper ball joints
4) passenger side cam kit
5) several alignments and two sets of early worn front tires
6) rear brake line (front line due to be replaced)
7) all four shocks

recent stuff I still need to fix
1) e-brake started lightly sticking on passenger drum
2) exhaust leak at the doughnut (looks like it was overtightened when I had my muffler replaced under lifetime warranty)

plus the usual regular maintenance stuff - oil, tires, brakes, etc

durfey
06-23-2011, 05:58 PM
on my 98 4.0L

the wiring harness on top of the steering column was too short from factory and pulled pins out of the plug with the steering wheel tilted down

the idle air control valve

door ajar sensor

vacuum leak between intake manifold and plenum

''clunk'' when put in and out of gear

valve train noise

and pulse vacuum hubs

ussraven61
08-11-2011, 11:25 PM
My Ford Ranger and I have a love hate relationship......where to start??

-Thermostat
-Radiator
-Head Gaskets X2
-Transmission
-Control arms
-Front end Springs
-Front end Calipers
-EGR valve
-Coolant temp sensor

I think that might be it so far.
Currently my radiator is losing water.....only thing is i dont know where its goin. Its not leaking from the radiator of any hoses, my oil is not milky, and its not in the floor board. Suggestions????

06RangerXLT
08-29-2011, 12:49 PM
Mine does the damnedest thing every Friday.

Pulls into the parking lot of closest strip bar and dies. Won't restart for at least 2-3 hours.

Haven't figured it out yet

:icon_rofl::D:icon_thumby::icon_hornsup::icon_chee rs:

Awesome. gonna see if i can sig that one.

I keep getting an EGR code when the engine light comes on, I have replaced the EGR valve twice and the EGR Solenoid. I continue to get a check engine light. The economy in the vehicle has gotten worse as well. Can not find any vacuum leaks and I have changed the spark plugs. Sorry, this is a 1999 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 engine and 4X4.

bad MPG says to me the egr tube sould be plugged. expecially if you have replaced everything.

2timerangerfan
09-11-2011, 08:18 AM
[QUOTE=4x4junkie;159928]
4WD "GEM" modules that frequently go bad (usually results in failure of the 4WD shifting into LO, but will still work in HI)

I've been having this problem but i wasn't sure why. Also I've experienced a few other problems
Problems starting when cold (replaced fuel pump)
Strange smoke coming from under hood passenger side (there was a valve leaking from the heating system onto the valve cover)

Also i'm having some trouble with the front suspension but that is a service issue on my end ( i know i should be ashamed to admit it)

2timerangerfan
09-13-2011, 08:51 PM
I've been reading a lot about this air bag light. I had the same problem and it bothered me until I started assembling cars for an unamed import car manufacturer. I install seats and I know if you don't completely seat the plugs underneath the seat that light will come on occasionally. I worked with mine a little and I've had no trouble since

FlyinRyan
10-23-2011, 01:48 PM
'98 Mazda B2500, 5sp, 2WD.

Since I've had it in '09

- Piston from wheel cylinder ripped its way through the boot and got eaten up. Paid about $25 for a piece of metal smaller than my pinkie.

- New parking brake cables

- Front stabilizer bar link (pass.)

- Tie rod end (pass.)

- Upper ball joint (pass.)

- Blower Motor Resistor and Harness

- Licence Plate light

- Exhaust flange gasket

- Catalytic Converter

- Alternator is just about gone. Making a horrible whine but still works.


Not sure why the passenger side suspension is wearing so fast...
I get the driveshaft clunk too
Getting a rattling when I'm going up hill in fourth, think it's my throwout bearing from what I've read - it sounds like someone shaking a metal rake.

cheenulee
10-25-2011, 06:42 PM
1998 Mazda B4000, bought used in 2009, 14x,xxx miles, auto trans, 4WD. Since its been mine, I've:

-replaced drivers side O2 sensor (CEL)
-replaced thermostat
-replaced front brake pads and rotors
-replaced bad power steering pump (still noisy!)
-greased slip yoke (got rid of take-off/stopping thump and a really annoying whistling sound - drove me crazy) - update - whistling sound is back :(

still to do:
-replace front and rear shocks
-reseal rear window, leaks during rain

cheenulee
10-25-2011, 06:45 PM
'98 Mazda B2500, 5sp, 2WD.

Since I've had it in '09

- Piston from wheel cylinder ripped its way through the boot and got eaten up. Paid about $25 for a piece of metal smaller than my pinkie.

- New parking brake cables

- Front stabilizer bar link (pass.)

- Tie rod end (pass.)

- Upper ball joint (pass.)

- Blower Motor Resistor and Harness

- Licence Plate light

- Exhaust flange gasket

- Catalytic Converter

- Alternator is just about gone. Making a horrible whine but still works.


Not sure why the passenger side suspension is wearing so fast...
I get the driveshaft clunk too
Getting a rattling when I'm going up hill in fourth, think it's my throwout bearing from what I've read - it sounds like someone shaking a metal rake.


FlyinRyan - try greasing the slip yoke. Got rid of my driveshaft clunk. Google "greasing slip yoke" and it should pop right up.

theboatcapt
10-28-2011, 02:49 AM
Hi Guys, I still have to say that if I had read this site before, I would not own this Ranger after.
FIRST- VACUM HUBS-The single biggest problem and until they produce metal warn type manual Locks the problem will continue. I changed to AVM. They work but I don't think they will stand up in heavy off roading ? Wheres the best place to shut off the vacum on the hubs? I removed the vacum hose from the hub and plugged it with a rubber cap from Auto Zone. They have the asst pack thats best. I also used one of these plugs from the asst pack to close off the hose I removed from the hub.

Second-Brakes- The rear brake drum hardware design is not good and hard to get on straight.

Third -Front Suspenion, Ball Joints and A arm bushings .Mine are shot, big problem and I cant find a good guided illustration to repair. There are so many squeaks I can't tell where the noise is coming from.
It sounds like a bunch of short legged Beagles in high water !!!!!!!!!!!!

Forth- Clunking drive shaft or somewhere in the driveline? Have not fixed yet.
Fith- A grease seal behind the front bearing assy ? Can't Find ? It squeals.
Sixth-Everytime I read this forum I trust this truck less.

theboatcapt
10-28-2011, 02:55 AM
What is the real life mpg on this truck. I get 14 sometimes city or 15 highway? tks Chuck

JoshT
10-29-2011, 11:53 AM
FIRST- VACUM HUBS-The single biggest problem and until they produce metal warn type manual Locks the problem will continue. I changed to AVM. They work but I don't think they will stand up in heavy off roading ? Wheres the best place to shut off the vacum on the hubs? I removed the vacum hose from the hub and plugged it with a rubber cap from Auto Zone. They have the asst pack thats best. I also used one of these plugs from the asst pack to close off the hose I removed from the hub.

Second-Brakes- The rear brake drum hardware design is not good and hard to get on straight.

Third -Front Suspenion, Ball Joints and A arm bushings .Mine are shot, big problem and I cant find a good guided illustration to repair. There are so many squeaks I can't tell where the noise is coming from.
It sounds like a bunch of short legged Beagles in high water !!!!!!!!!!!!

Forth- Clunking drive shaft or somewhere in the driveline? Have not fixed yet.
Fith- A grease seal behind the front bearing assy ? Can't Find ? It squeals.
Sixth-Everytime I read this forum I trust this truck less.

First - AVM style hubs are you only choice for the 98-mid 2000, and no other companies are going to make them. The only other option for these year models are either swap in a solid axle (research it) or swap in the cv joints, knuckles, and hubs from a later model. Doing the former is alot of work to get it right but you'll have strong lockouts, the latter is easier but you'll have live axles. There are a lot op people out there that have put the AVM hubs through some tough stuff, and they have held up well.

Second - The rear drum brake is the exact same design that had been used on nearly every Ford since the 80s probably longer than that. You're the first person that I've heard complain about it. IF you really don't like it later model Rangers came with disks, as well as Explorers since 96. The axles can be swapped, or some of the brakes can be swapped onto your axle.

Third - Already discussed, but I'll say it again. Get a Chilton's manual form the auto parts store.

Fourth - Somebody in the other thread already mentioned that one. There's a slip yoke in the rear drive shaft that needs greased.

Fifth - Not sure about that one. Reference number three.

Sixth - Maybe stop reading the forums? Only solution I can think of for that one.

If you got any more questions about these I'd recommend searching or creating new threads in the proper forum.

rukie
01-04-2012, 11:05 AM
98 Ranger 2wd 2.5L, 5 spd
Cracked head and burnt valves at 190,000 miles (pinned, resurfaced, valve job)
Door Light (Damn thing)
The balancey weight thing on the drive shaft broke off (vulcanized rubber attached it)

Definitely agree with the noisy power steering

New ball joints (my fault, hit a curb in snow)

Other than that no problems!

Edit:
Seized caliper up front: Used a torch to loosen it up, neverseized it, good as new.

fordmanms
01-11-2012, 07:43 PM
As most have mentioned, door switch leaving dome light/door ajar warning lamp on at times, goes off after a few minutes,
3.0 Flex Fuel Injectors, I had to replace 2 at one time and one of the replacements later on after using E-85 (crappy fuel)
leaking pinion seal (what do you expect for a 110000 mile vehicle
Poor gas mileage with regular unleaded (10 - 15% ethanol) because of this, i switched to non ethanol fuel (cost 5-10 cents more) but got 30 - 50 more miles per tank (big difference in performance too)

other than that, really good pick up.

Charleserion
03-28-2012, 12:20 AM
I have my 2001 and 1999 in random order until the third chair.

It 'happened a couple of times a year.
__________________
Bronco II, 1989, 2.9l, manual Trans and T-case, manual hubs | 2004 Tahoe Z71, 5.3l 4L60E, AutoTrac 4WD, leather, Bose, DVD loaded.

SeanWilson
03-30-2012, 01:52 AM
Im rocking a 98 4.0L 4x4 with ABSOLUTELY no power anythings, lowest model possible..
1. the automatic 4x4 selector switch and electronic 4x4 module on the transfer case
2. leaking rear windows (i replaced my seal, RTV’d my 3rd light and even am RTving my whole inner window around the metal.
3.weak Ebrake
4. the shity weak super expensive hub/bearing.

those are some of the things ive noticed on my own in the last 3 yrs :dunno:

jafledd
03-31-2012, 09:25 PM
I have had the AVM hubs grenade while doing upper and lower ball joints.
I have 75k on my 99 Ranger and need to adjust the lash on or replace the push rods
It is time to replace the shocks on my trk and the options for my trk with the superlift 4.5in lift are less than stellar .
Other than the fact that you need to have some G2 (common sense/skill) to mod you late model ranger it isn't impossible.

BFRXLT
05-06-2012, 06:41 PM
'04 4.0 XLT 4dr. with 92k miles

So far I've had to replace:
Both tie rod ends
AC compressor

All of the above was done under warranty.

Problems I've noticed:

The rear slider will not seal for some reason. It has been tried several time. It only leaks air, not water.

There is a squeaking/moaning sound coming from the front suspension somewhere. I can only hear it at low speeds.

I don't baby this truck and have towed quite a lot with it. It has been an excellent truck so far.

One thing I didn't mention it the stock radio quit ejecting CD's. I just put an aftermarket radio in which I wanted to do anyway.

bugnout
05-16-2012, 05:39 PM
1999 splash 4DR 2WD 3.0 Flexfuel, purchased new, now:125000 miles

-Ball joints failed at 70k
-Steering rack failed at 35k
-Dome light door switches every 20k or so
--just dowse them with half a can of WD40 and they work for another 20k
-Dash lights started burning out around 70k, I'm down to a handful, really need to dig in and replace them all.
-Replaced plug wires aroudn 90k

Thats pretty much all I've done to it. Very reliable transportation

tobyduck
06-16-2012, 03:31 AM
Intake manifold gaskets going bad, had to remake the gasket so it wouldn't go bad on the 4.0 due to the way it was made.
Cam shaft sensor on the 4.0.
No one seems to know what a flange gasket is in a part store lol, but those don't last for the lifetime of the truck either.
BLEND DOOR will break, and part store workers want to sell you the entire assembly. Idiots where I live...
My ABS system failed to work until I changed my brake shoes and bleed the system out.
Vacuum hubs.
Door handles will break off over time.
My dome lights blow out more than usual, probably my radio wiring though.
Instrument lights blow out over time, and one blew out right after I changed two of them. typical.
The oem speakers are not quality and need to be replaced after about ten years. common sense though.
Feedback in the radio due to the spark plug boots and wires. Grounding problems.
Cruise control buttons will deface and crumble up over time. $100 for a new pair where I live.
Engine gaskets seem to leak, like oil pan, valve cover, etc.
Random high idles due to air conditioner clutch.
Gear shift Indicator will move and be off a few mm or a whole gear

bintopo
07-06-2012, 10:53 PM
99 XLT 3.0 with 190,000km on the body. Manual windows and door locks. 5 speed 2 wd. Started doing my own repair about four years ago.

Usual:
- Phantom Wipers - Took the switch apart and re-greased it with e-grease. Did nothing.
- Dome light - Never had a problem.
- Back door latches - Needed to slam them close with both arms. Finally gave in and installed new latches.
- Front door hinges - Loose and need to be replaced.
- Heather core leaked - Replaced it. Removed dash and seats and it all went back just like new.
- Back brakes sticking after rain - Replaced the shoes and drums. One drum had a notch in the lip.
- Blown engine - Gear on oil pump went at about 90,000km. My fault for not checking the oil. But I'm not sure how they would have found the bad gear?!?!?
- AC stopped working - Replaced the compressor and good for a year.
- AC stopped working - Replaced the condenser. Waiting...
- Squeaking s-belt - Replaced idler pulley, tension pulley, alternator, fan clutch, water pump, new belt. So far so good.
- Noisy power steering pump. - Replaced it.
- Noisy power steering pump. - Living with it.
- Rear spring shackle rusted off - Had it repaired.
- Ball Joings - Replaced them.
- Front stabilizer bar link - Repaired.
- Check engine light - O2 sensor from my reader.
- Power Steering oil cooler leaking - Removed.
- E-Brake cable snapped - Replaced.

New:
- Driveshaft? clunking - This just started and its driving me round the bend. Removed the brake drums last week thinking that the brake shoes were loose. Didn't see anything out of place or wrong. Then it seemed to be great for a couple of days. Now it back and it also seems like the back brakes are sticking.
- High speed vibration at around 120km/h - need to check out the recommended greasing of the slip yoke and grease fitting that was recommended by prefab08.
- Clutch pedal squeak - very annoying. Any ideas?

Sure we have problems with our Rangers but not any more or less than any other vehicle. Just check their forums!

Doofy
08-06-2012, 06:17 PM
On my '98...not a single problem other than a parasitic power drain on the battery. Damn fine little truck!

matthewbajerski
08-15-2012, 12:28 AM
11' has a recall on the tail lights

jeffy56
08-19-2012, 06:34 PM
25 yrs with Rangers. '87 & '94 before this one. Still have the '94. 4.5 months into a used '02, xl, 3.0/auto, A/C, 2x.

Was a security truck, low (95k) miles but a lot of door & seat wear. Not to hard to lift the seat cover and put another inch of hi-density foam in.

Driver side seat belt buckles are a problem (bolted to seat frame). After a lot of wear they won't stay latched and the sensor is tied to the air bag system. The OEM buckle (w/switch) is now permanently latched under the seat with a generic/passenger/kid replacement installed for real use.

Power steering fluid & pump seems to take more of a beating with the rack & pinion. Noisy pump. Installed petcock in return line to change a some fluid out with every engine oil change. Pump happier.

Front suspension bushings needed refresh, not really DIY. Needs alignment.

While chasing a rough idle issue I just replaced cam synchro because of what I had read and not knowing the history of this motor. (replaced IAC no help, ongoing). My old synchro was tighter than the new Chinese ones, obviously go Motocraft. Rock Auto seems to have a real good price on those. Tech article here says 10° ATDC, all other sources, some FORD copywrited, say right at TDC. With tool of course. A little explanation might help here. One can wing it and it may be OK because those gear teeth are course, but the relationship of the syncho body, flag position, & crank position, determines the rotational relationship of the sensor to the flag in the syncho. Barely found "bump", with line, for crank timing on cover near sensor. Those sensor teeth do not perfectly line up with the timing marks. I used the timing marks, seems to run good & strong. Can get picks if needed.

Noticed radiator & heater hoses are now "grafted" at a couple of points, along with 2 manifold hoses. Looks like future trouble.

Dash illumination, those gauge bulbs are special and tricky. Most web sites will sell you a bulb that won't work. It has a special twist in mount that seems integral. On going.

In a couple of months I intend to install an after market cruise control. I think I have found one that will essentially plug n play. Mounting the servo will be the tricky part.

Since many members are younger with less experience, their first vehicle maybe, I see some of the posts lack basic automotive electrical knowledge. Maybe a few rules & technique post.

Head light lenses. Use plexiglass cleaner to clear them up. 1 small can will last years.

joey7478
08-30-2012, 01:28 PM
In my area the rear frames rust out real bad.

killj0y
09-02-2012, 09:57 PM
stupid power steering in mine went out, kinda. plenty of power steering fluid but it will only work if I rev the engine a bit.

Dome/door ajar light.

and tail gate wont latch sometimes, I just keep some wd-40 in the cab and that will fix it for a while.

Try lithium grease instead, it well last longer and not turn to goo like wd40

wallisonline
11-20-2012, 01:43 AM
Does anyone know how many mpg on the hwy a 1984 Honda Accord with automatic transmission gets?

oscardesker
01-11-2013, 06:16 AM
Here are some additions to common problems and will help on how to overcome fear (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1RzqGnNilU) in driving 4x4:

1. Crack on Chassis that is common due to overload
2. water contamination from wading of the differentials, gearbox, transfer case etc
3. Rust on bottom of doors and tailgates because of water and mud
4. Sagging of springs on suspensions

eutychus
02-10-2013, 10:40 PM
Just found this thread.

My 2010 4x4, 4.0L automatic has an odd "thrumming" noise at idle after the engine is warmed up.

In Park and Neutral, no noise.

But in Reverse or Drive, "thrumming" noise.

I'm taking it in Tuesday to the dealer (29,000 miles, still under warranty) to have it looked at. I'll come back and post an update after the dealer is done with it.

Any thoughts on the cause of this?

MastuhWaffles
04-04-2013, 09:45 PM
Really all I can say is that there's just too much plastic... It breaks a lot, doubt that's going to change.

deadRaven
04-12-2013, 07:26 AM
id say since there are so many DIYers here, after cranking the t-bars theres always an alignment problem. a walk through would be great if its not too complex or need of special calibration tools.

countryboy69
04-15-2013, 12:53 AM
i had both of my rear leaf spring shackle mounts break, rusted off (michigan weather) was a bitch to get off cuz they are riveted to the frame had to use a air chizzel and a grinder to get em off after that it was smooth sailing, Note: had to take the spare out from under to get to it.

Now i have a parasitic draw on fuse 26 i havent found the problem yet though, not sure if it is common but ill find out.

countryboy69
04-15-2013, 12:55 AM
got another question, Why does my 2000 ranger with a 3.0 get 10 mpg.... i did a full tune up and it still sucks?

MastuhWaffles
04-15-2013, 09:21 PM
id say since there are so many DIYers here, after cranking the t-bars theres always an alignment problem. a walk through would be great if its not too complex or need of special calibration tools.

Just take it too an auto shop that does alignments, I maxed out my T-Bars, took it too Firestone, and now it's great.

cp2295
08-12-2013, 11:48 PM
I know that the balljoints go bad.
also the camshaft position sensor gear is made out of nylon and so that can go bad. i've heard if you hear a ticking noise (similar to a lifter tick) then don't ignore as the gear maybe is going out. IMMEDIATELY replace it.. how the thing works is the camshaft, and the sensor have hypoid gears. The camshaft being spun also spins the sensors gear, and in turn it spins a little metal tab at the top which the computer reads and it tells the pcm when to fire the spark plugs, and when to inject the fuel. Anyways, there is a shaft that goes downwards from the sensor and it actuates the oil pump.. so if you neglect to replace this gear, you will have no oil pressure, and a dead engine in seconds.

Okay i know that sounds terrible, but just keep up on maintenance (i replace mine every 50,000 miles just to be safe), only costs $50. Another thing that goes bad on all rangers is the hose that connects where you pump the gas into the tank. If you notice a leak & smell gas everytime you pump (when leaving/done pumping) then it's probably that.

I have a 3.0 with 175,000 and it's a strong engine, won't die anytime soon. i know people with a 4.0, and 2.5 with 250,000+ on it and still running strong. Just keep up on oil changes and such.

cp2295
08-12-2013, 11:49 PM
look on fueleconomy.gov, this is TRS, not the import station!!

Kowboy
12-03-2013, 08:34 PM
I did not purchase my 2000 3.0 stick XLT until it has 115,000 miles on the OD. So I can only attest to what has happened since then. I now have 155,000 miles on her and have replaced: idler pulley and serpentine belt, heater core, water pump and did the thermostat and fan clutch as precaution at that time and today the cam synchronizer and sensor. The previous owner kept super records and appears to only have done routine maintenance. She has the same tires on her as when purchased and 40 K miles later, they are still good to go. The tires did not appear to be new at purchase and I figured would need replacing sooner than this. I'm HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY! / Kowboy

NIPs
02-27-2014, 02:01 AM
leaf spring mounts in the back always rust out

Bulldog3755
04-14-2014, 01:55 AM
The only thing I can think to add to wvcat's post is the typical driveshaft thud/clunk when starting to accelerate and when coming to a stop.


What exactly causes that and could it be a problem later on?
My 99 does it and honestly it's really bad somedays and it makes me worry


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Bulldog3755
04-14-2014, 02:08 AM
I keep having two issues that I haven't read yet. Some days when I move the truck for the first time it sticks. I put it in drive or reverse but it doesn't move but the Rpms drop meaning that it's in gear. If I hit the gas in reverse I hear a bang and it moves free. I thought It was brakes sticking at first but it does it even if I don't use the E brake.
Also very rarely the truck runs like the engine is under excessive load. Say if I'm driving at cruising speed the Rpms will be higher than normal. A lot higher sometimes. Slower acceleration follows suit and only once the speedometer wasn't reading right but when I stopped, shut the truck off and started it up it ran fine.


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broussard91
06-30-2014, 03:04 PM
#9 #10 #12 have all thes probs with my 99 but slave might actuly be the plunger inside truck changed mine 3 time in my truck still have a sticky clutch pedal that releases when it wants done bled the system and had it changed at diferent shops after the one i did failed