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1987 v6 woes


OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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I got an otherwise nice 87 4x4 that was missing its v6. I swapped one I had into it and just got it to rotate today. I have a mess of electrical issues. I hope they are all from the same source.

Absolutely no gages work on the dash
I have no spark
Wipers don't work
Radio won't turn on
Power windows and locks don't work

Is there a bus bar, or fusible link I should be looking for?
 


RobbieD

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Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.

OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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That is going to help immensely, thank you VERY much! From the looks of it, most of what isnt working comes off the run side of the ignition switch. Maybe that's my problem.
 

RobbieD

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The ignition switch in first-generation trucks can loosen up and the two parts get a seperation. There's been a couple of these on here lately (the posts can found by using the "search" feature). Just 2 screws from below will get the column trim off, so it's worth taking a look.

The tech library section has some diagrams, and some good articles. If you need a scematic not in the library, hit me up.

Good luck!
 

rusty ol ranger

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Dont forget to check the ground strap that runs from the drivers side head to the firewall.

That grounds cab electronics
 

OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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I found my problem/s. The ignition switch under the column wasn't making full electrical contact. Also two wires were swapped on the coil and the capacitor. Now it runs but only starts with starting fluid. It will sustain on its own bit won't start without fluid. That's either a result of old gas, or the small fuel leak the hose has at the fuel pressure regulator.

Now I have ignition, the horn works, wiper blades work, and power window on passenger side. Radio display works but that's it.

I still don't have gages, and the ac fan works when it feels like it. I hate electrical issues. Anyone wanna buy an 87 ranger 4x4?
 

OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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The ignition switch in first-generation trucks can loosen up and the two parts get a seperation. There's been a couple of these on here lately (the posts can found by using the "search" feature). Just 2 screws from below will get the column trim off, so it's worth taking a look.

The tech library section has some diagrams, and some good articles. If you need a scematic not in the library, hit me up.

Good luck!
THANKS! That helped me out greatly!
 

OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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Whelp, the saga continues. I can't keep the fuel pump running. It's intermittent. I'm going to buy new relays to see if that helps, if not I'll test the fuel pumps,after that I will throw a lit torch into the truck and walk away.
 

OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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Replaced the fuel pump relay and it started up immediately. Shut it down and it restarted again immediately. Did that 3 or 4 times no issues. Took it for a spin around the block and shut it down. Won't restart. Fuel pump wont restart.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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If you take the pump down from the frame rail, and look under the wiring boots at the pump, you will find "spade type" terminals. Those get loose over time. I cut off the old and crimp on new and don't have problems anymore.
 

OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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Thanks, I'll check those out. Would a bad connection at the fuel rail cause the in tank not to work as well? How are the two pumps linked? Are they electrically linked or just hydraulically linked via fuel line?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Thanks, I'll check those out. Would a bad connection at the fuel rail cause the in tank not to work as well? How are the two pumps linked? Are they electrically linked or just hydraulically linked via fuel line?
Not sure. I assume the in tank pump is on the same circuit electrically, parallel, so one pump won't affect the other. The in tank feeds the frame pump.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Thanks, I'll check those out. Would a bad connection at the fuel rail cause the in tank not to work as well? How are the two pumps linked? Are they electrically linked or just hydraulically linked via fuel line?
No each pump gets power seperate from each other.
 

OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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New News. I got a pressure check kit and my fuel pressure while cranking is 40 psi. It won't start by cranking. If I dump fuel in the intake it starts and runs great then dies as if it's not getting fuel. Fuel pressure stays at 40 the entire time.

If I pump the throttle like mad, it will stay running but sputters like it will die any moment. I'm replacing the throttle position sensor to see if that fixes it.
 

OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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Well, that had no effect. Also, I am getting spark because the timing light blinks when hooked up.
 

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