Hey, some of you may remember me from a previous discussion. I've been trying to debug my starting system in my 2001 Ford Ranger. I bought it recently and it worked for a couple weeks then started having difficulty starting. Finally it wouldn't start and I was up in the woods I wasn't in a place...
UPDATE: maybe I was getting false readings from some other fuse (28?) Either way, I ended up diagnosing it again and put a test light to the red/lt blue wire coming out of the ignition switch. No power on start. I then tried sending power through fuse 24 from the battery and it cranked over. So...
I should also let you know (maybe I should have let you know sooner) the previous owner replaced the steering wheel and just cut all but one wire (black) going into the ignition. Also I don't know if this would affect the Anti theft system but, the previous owner also replaced the old engine...
Sorry for the late response. I pulled fuse 28 out and sure enough there is now 0 v on fuse 24 in ON and also in START (with fuse 28 in, I am measuring 5v when the key is ON and also START)
So, I should be seeing 4.8v on fuse 24 and at my clutch bypass? If so, then the problem is downstream? Starter relay? BTW, thank you so much for all the help and information!
So you are saying that the PATS system is preventing the circuit from grounding? What does PATS stand for? Is that part of the anti theft system? How do i fix this?
I'm an electrician, low voltage for us 50v or something means that it's like a loose or lost neutral. Should I recheck my grounds? Where? Main terminal?
I tried again. Maybe I didn't have a good connection the first time. I was getting 4.8 volts at the fuse even when the key was in ON position. The battery has 12v it had more earlier, it is fine just getting low from not running... 4.8b is also how much I got at the clutch (Pink and Pink/white)...
It turns just fine, perfectly normal feeling... and (as said above) it has started before... also, the guy I bought it from said New starter, new clutch, and new ignition switch in the add. He didn't save the receipts and (because hitting it worked once...) I think the starter was bad... so I...
You were right, the theft light comes on like a lot of lights and then turns off... neither fuse is blown but I stuck my multimeter in either side of #24 inside after removing the 7.5 fuse I got 0 volts even when the key was in START. Should I have measured 12v? Maybe something is wrong with the...
I don't know if there is an added alarm system. I'm not sure. I bought the truck recently but the guy had the title. He seemed very legit. I'm just going off memory, I'll let you know what exactly goes on with the THEFT light and remote unlock etc.
Fuse #24 inside and #11 outside are both fine. There is actually a theft light on the dash. It's not flashing but it is on. I just thought that it was normal (lots of lights turn on and then off after it is started) how do I fix that? One place online said turn the key to ON and then OFF 8...
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