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I intend to install a Waggy D44 under the front of my 98 Ranger with full ABS. Is there any way for me to retain ABS functionality with the "new" axle? If so, how? FWIW, I'll be converting it to Ford D44 hubs for the 5-5.5" pattern.

Does anybody have the overall physical dimensions (LxWxD) of a fully assembled 4.0L? Need a comparison in size for an engine swap I'm contemplating.:icon_thumby:

anybody know where that damned "premium" audio amp would be in a Gen4 (98-00) ExCab?:pissedoff:

bullshit. no axle just "always leaks". maintain that shit. if you can't keep seals in it, the housing is fawked, get a new one. there is no valid excuse for having a leaky rig. that's only fuel for the tree-hugging greenie wackos. MAINTAIN YOUR FAWKING JUNK!!!:flipoff:

yeah, if you ain't beatin' the piss out of the TTB, leave that POS alone :)

'course, if you get real lucky, you can swap in a D30 for less than $300 total cost. i've got everything i need short of gears and track-bar for less than $200 so far. YJ housing with TJ shafts, radius arms, 4" spring....i've yet to get the 4.56s (cheapest new) and build the track-bar (adjustable)

i thought so, but i wasn't gonna say since i was too lazy to look it up :)

i'm gonna end up running just a regular ol' low-pinion 9" with a shaved housing. i don't remember where i saw it, but somebody makes a pinion guard/skid that would certainly help. :icon_thumby:

high pinion (reverse spiral) rears ALWAYS run on the coast side in forward gear. when they cut the teeth for the gear, the only thing changed is the direction of the spiral, not the profile of the teeth. why that is, i dunno....must be too much of a tooling change or something.

i'm working on a D30 swap into my BII, myself. gonna rid myself of that troublesome D35 that i've beaten into a leaky pulp. here's how i'm doing it on the cheap: YJ housing -- disconnect style = sixxer of cheap piss-water (beer) TJ shafts -- helping a buddy upgrade to a D60 in his TJ = free...

hey, Junkie, could you shoot me a link for that Currie high-pinion 9? couldn't find it and i'm wonderin' wtf is up with it. nevermind....i found it. thats friggin' wierd...:icon_confused:...i'd just be worried about the pinion deflection from running on the coast side in a rear application...

haha! i was relaxed. i just got a bit annoyed at the misinformation. annoyed = :thefinger: politics = :flipoff: :icon_cheers:

except that to run 8.8 gears, you lose two key strength features of the original 9". namely, the pinion snout support and the extra tooth engagement offered by the extra-low pinion. in that case, why not just run a regular 8.8"? if you need a quick-change 3rd, why not go with a regular...

i'm just saying that a "set" of D60s aint exactly ideal when you've already got a 9" on hand. stock 60 rear would be 30 spline vs. a 31-spline 9". 9" has a better centersection as far as gear strength, to boot. only thing you can get with a rear 60 that you'd hafta build for a 9" is a...

no shit? wow....that's gotta be a helluva hack job. :owned:

sorry, bub. yer wrong. 8.8" gears can, in no way, fit in a 9" third. secondly, in a high-pinion (reverse spiral) front -- which the Hi9 is -- you're running on the drive side. in the future, could you kindly keep your fingers off the keyboard when you don't know what the hell you're talking...

if you just rotate the chunk, you'll starve the pinion for oil and burn the gears up = bad ju-ju. head on over to truehi9.com to see what it takes. definately expensive proposition personally, i wouldn't do it. in a rear application you'll be running on the weaker "coast" side of the...

FWIW, a 9" owns a rear D60.....just as strong, better clearance, lighter weight. if he upgrades to a 35-spline 9" like i said (big bearing nodular 3rd, Detroit/ARB/spool, 35-spline shafts), he can run up to 44s without any issues if he drives smart. for the front, either a D60 or, for...

STERIO NOOB ALERT!!! ok, i'm wanting to put a double-din headunit with navigation in my 98 Ranger. all of the retailers sites, tell me "no way in hell", but i GOTTA think there's a way to do it since double-din is 4"x7" and the hole in my dash is 4"x7". has anybody done it? and if so...

FWIW, i gave $150 for a D44 complete from lockout to lockout with cast wedges, radius arms, and tie-rod.