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I have checked the vacuum with a gauge and am noticing the needle slowly bouncing up to 1 inch in time with changes in RPM. Does anyone know what this could indicate?

Replacing those things did not solve the issue. Also cleaned fuel injectors & replaced fuel pressure regulator, still the same 411 and 136 codes. I guess I am hunting down a hard-to-find vacuum leak at this point. Perhaps I did not perform the smoke test well enough last weekend.

I've decided to replace the PCM with a remanufactured version from RockAuto. I'm not super confident in my soldering skills and I'd prefer to get something that's been thru some thorough testing. Hopefully replacing the PCM and fixing the air intake tube (it has a few holes) will clear the two...

I pulled and opened my PCM. It looks like there are several damaged components on the board.

Yes, see the original post at the top.

That's where I'm at now. I performed a smoke test and only noticed leaks in the air intake tube. A quick duct tape patch did not resolve the codes I'm seeing. So I have ordered a refurbished PCM. I guess that one symptom of a bad PCM in this car is improper signals to the IAC valve.

I guess I will need to find some high temp rubber adhesive to fix my current one, then. Or take a visit to the pick and pull.

Pretty much what the title says. I have a 4.0L V6 1993 Ranger, and I have an air intake hose (between the air cleaner and intake manifold) with a few large holes. I am trying to source a new part, and am finding absolutely nothing for the 4.0L engine (part no. F47Z-9B659-A). I am seeing a ton...

I have performed a test of the IAC solenoids I have (the original part and the new one) with a 9v battery. They don't seem to be faulty.

Hey everyone! I am having issues with the Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid on my Ranger. It's a 1993 Ford Ranger STX 4.0L V6 with manual transmission. I am getting the following codes on a KOER test: - 326: HEGO (H2OS) sensor fault, always lean (driver side) - 411: cannot control RPM during...

Replaced the faulty clutch position sensor did indeed resolve this issue. I am able to perform the engine running test now. Thanks for the help!

Thanks for checking! I agree the previous owner did some funky stuff with the electrical system. Fortunately it seems like the mechanical system has been maintained well.

I bought this truck from my grandparents' estate about 15 years ago. They used it as a farm truck in Montana for most of its life. First vehicle I ever drove!

This would be my "other project" vehicle that I haven't touched in 6 years. It's a 1974 F250 Ranger XLT Camper Special, 2WD automatic transmission with a 360 V8. I'm considering swapping an EFI on there since I don't drive it very often. I bought my Ford Ranger mostly for my kids to learn to...

OK, so here are some updates. I pulled that clutch position sensor, and there are two cables that have been cut. I believe it's the cables for pins 5 and 6. There are another two cut cables coming from what I believe is an aftermarket remote kill switch. I don't understand -- with those two...

I am getting a code from the computer regarding the vehicle not being in neutral/park during the Key On Engine Off test. I am also able to start the engine without the clutch being pressed. I guess the missing connection here might be causing those two things?

Ok, I'll replace that faulty clutch position sensor and then report back. Hopefully that fixes things. Thanks!

Do I need to have the clutch pedal pressed during the tests? The instructions I've seen only indicate the pedal needs to be pressed if you have the 4.9L engine, which I do not.

The truck does have a manual transmission. I am mostly wondering if the clutch position sensor is bad, could this generate a code 522 (vehicle not in park or neutral during KOEO)?

It's worth noting that I am also seeing a code 528: clutch switch circuit fault. On the manual transmission models, does the clutch switch also indicate neutral/park status?