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I am going to be swapping in a 4.0 into my Bronco II. I can do wiring, but it would be nice if someone wanted to build me one for a price of course.

I need to get my speedo correct on my Bronco II. According to the article in the Tech Library, I had a 19 tooth gear. I did the math and it came up to a 21 tooth gear. I installed a red 21 tooth gear and now my speedo reads 10 mph fast. Did I install the correct gear? What would I need to get...

A 1310 is the size u-joint you currently have in that drive shaft. The drive line shop will need to know that to give you the proper flange.

It would be cheaper for you to get a 1310 u-joint flange with a cross bolt pattern of 3.5" I believe. You will have to measure the cross bolt pattern on the flange. Like I said, I got mine for $25 locally.

It is best if you take your drive shaft to the shop and tell them you have a flange on the axle with a bolt cross dimension of "x". What is your dimension from end of cup to end of cup on your u-joint? I have a stock Explorer u-joint/flange drive shaft end I will sell you if it works.

You should be able to get a flange adapter from any drive line shop. I got one for my Explorer 8.8 for $25 here locally. You can also get a yoke for your 8.8 from Jeg's if you want to go that route. It is more expensive, but from what I have heard the yokes are stronger than the flanges...

75w90.

There are a lot of mistakes n the Tech Library

True!

True that.

The 31 spline 8.8 axles are stronger than a 9" if both axles are in stock form. If you wanted to put in a nodular center section in the 9", then the 9" would be better.

This is another way to eliminate the E-Clip found in the '84-'90 Bronco II, '91-'94 Explorer, or a '83-'97 Ranger Dana Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front suspension. Difficulty: 4 out of 10 The spring is 2-1/4" long with a 1.445" OD and a 1.2395" ID. First off, you have to squeeze the...

That is freakin sweet! I am not a fan of the reverse doors, but it is cool.

How come no one ever uses a manual transmission behind their V8 swap? Seems like a T-5 would be a good choice.

I have contacted a local spring manufacture to see about getting a spring made for the E-clip eliminator modification in the Dana 28 and Dana 35 TTB axles. Depending on price, I am looking to see how many would be interested in purchasing a spring already setup. It would be ready for...

Can anyone elaborate what needs to be welded on the female side? I got a set of springs that are 15/16" inner diameter for the spring, but I need to know what needs to be welded? See the quote from the tech page below. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CClipEliminator.html Anyone...

What makes the '95-'97 Dana 35 TTB better is the 2 piston brake calipers. The '90-'94 Dana 35 TTB has the same single piston caliper as your Dana 28 TTB does.

You should really find a '95-'97 Ranger Dana 35 TTB and take EVERYTHING including the beams. The Dana 35 stuff will NOT fit into the Dana 28 beams.

Swap in a Dana 35 TTB, it is stronger and cheaper to build. To get a Dana 30 as strong as a STOCK Dana 44, you will spend $1,500+ on it.

Lets see what you have done to your Bronco II for body protection (ie: skid plates, rock sliders, cages, etc.)