Dextron II substitute and Park Difficulty

[dbuser2]

It's time to change the transmission fluid and filter again. I'v only put 40K miles on it since it was changed last back in 2015. 87 Ranger, 2WD, A4LD atransmission. None of the current available fluids have the Dextron II on it anywhere as there are few transmissions like these left around that use Dextron II. I know there are differences in the Dextron types and have read not to mix them. I'll just be draining from the pan and replacing filter as usual. Got this photo from a Haynes manual of a torque converter. Do I see a drain plug here or just a bolt? If a drain plug I assume it is accessible from below when I change the fluid? Any recommedations on which fluids that are compatable and will be ok to mix with the existing fluids left in the transmission? Ive heard it was best to use the newer synthetics. Thanks.

 

[dbuser2]

I forgot to mention threre is sone dificulty sometimes shifting it into Park. Does it just need a little lubrication somewhere or adjusting?

 

[dbuser2]

My bad again. The year was 2005 and with 40K miles since the last fluid time ir was changed. Fluid is still bright red.

 

[gaz]

@dbuser2 ,
If you are at all concerned about mixing fluids, there is absolutely no way it can be avoided by a simple fluid drop, more fluid will remain in the system than you are able to remove.

To my knowledge, the current go-to transmission fluid will cover the requirements of the former. If you want to settle that conclusively, phone your local Ford service station and get the story strait from them.

In my experience with transmission fluids, it is worth moving to a fully synthetic but getting all the old stuff out is a challenge. The best and most cost efficient method to service the fluid is called recirculation.

Recirculation pumps your fluid, along with a reservoir supply through a filter machine providing the lowest level of particulate matter contamination possible.

While this service does cost...potentially more than 14 new quarts of fluid, nothing works better. As it turns out, even the new fluid in the jugs are contaminated, using recirculation is unquestionably the best way to service a contained hydraulic fluid system.

 

[Mechrick]

Maxlife is probably closest to Dex II. Stay away from Dexron VI or Mercon LV, thinner viscosity.

The converter may have a drain plug, rotate the crank around to check.

To flush some transmissions, I'll break a rubber line somewhere and zip-tie a couple of hoses pointing down into a drain pan, start the vehicle and shut it off when it starts to spit air. Refill with fluid. You'll get most of it that way.

 

[19Walt93]

Valvoline Mercon/Dexron III will work. I did all the automatic transmissions at a Ford dealer for about 5 years and.I would never run a transmission with a line open until it spits air. I do drain and refill transmission services on my own vehicles, not flushes. If the fluid was really dark(which I don't allow to happen), I would repeat the drain and refill after driving a few miles.
Also, you're verifying the fluid level is correct on the stick, right?

 

[Mechrick]

I've done it a hundred times.

There are transmissions I won't flush. GM 4L60 and 4T65 for example. Or any transmission that has burnt fluid *and* symptoms indicating a problem. The GM transmissions use stamped steel drums with bonded lip seals that get hard with age and stop sealing. Changing the fluid on a 4L60 with no symptoms can cause it to stop shifting. I've had to rebuild a few after a well meaning service advisor sold a flush to a customer.

 

[dbuser2]

Valvoline Mercon/Dexron III will work. I did all the automatic transmissions at a Ford dealer for about 5 years and.I would never run a transmission with a line open until it spits air. I do drain and refill transmission services on my own vehicles, not flushes. If the fluid was really dark(which I don't allow to happen), I would repeat the drain and refill after driving a few miles.
Also, you're verifying the fluid level is correct on the stick, right?

It is the correct height and still pretty bright red.

 

[dbuser2]

I've done it a hundred times.

There are transmissions I won't flush. GM 4L60 and 4T65 for example. Or any transmission that has burnt fluid *and* symptoms indicating a problem. The GM transmissions use stamped steel drums with bonded lip seals that get hard with age and stop sealing. Changing the fluid on a 4L60 with no symptoms can cause it to stop shifting. I've had to rebuild a few after a well meaning service advisor sold a flush to a customer.

Speaking of GM transmission. I've a 2014 2500HD 6L90. They ok to just drain and refill without issues? It has 135K, fluid is actually clear with very little red but not very dirty and still smells ok. I've heard where some fplks have mixed feelings about changing fluids if they don't have red but the fluid is clear, pretty clean and no smell. The Ranger is still very much red and I think just drain and refill with the Maxlife and filter is pretty much how I'll go. No more than I drive it I think it'll still give me hopefully 10 more years of service. It seldoms gets on the interstate at higher speeds. Mostly rual and town driving at speeds of 45-55 tops. At 37 years old and very well maintained, anything on the Ranger can just go at a moments notice. Parts do age. I'm over 70 and my parts seem to break without notice. At least in the city or rual area breaking down on the side of the road is safer at lower speeds.