2.3L ('83-'97) Loss of power/Spark advance/ABS light. True definition of insanity.

[shortstak&1rat]

So I'm new here I've read through a few threads that seem to be about very similar issues and I'm still chasing my tail it seems like so i said "Well, you don't know what you don't know until you know that you didn't know it." And if that statement makes sense to anyone i might be in the right place to get a solution.

So for some background, i have me a 96 Ranger XLT single cab short box 2wd 5spd. I have absolutely no clue how many miles are on it, the odometer does not work. I got her in all her salvage title, fur shag headliner and captains chairs from a Honda glory for cheap cheap in a shady neighborhood because i h2ated my automatic car that was about to take a duece on me anyway. We call her "Danger". Fast forward 3 years to today.

I have replaced my EGR Valve, complete rear brakes...ish (ill explain in a second), air filter, starter, battery and because my cat rusted through and broke in half I've altered my exhaust (we have no emissions in my state). I do have my upstream o2 sensor still. After the cat went before i put any exhaust up she sat for a little because of the egr valve. My wife doesn't quite fit in Danger too well seeing as she's 6' so we were using our other vehicle until it went down too and then i got Danger on the road again. But little by little i lost power almost like the brakes were dragging and or locked up. I could rev her up as much as i wanted in gear and it was like peeling out on a patch of ice, rev slowly i could get some power and down the road but i can barely get her to 30mph now, it sounds like the tires are spinning and I'm getting no traction. Also the ABS light is on now. I have 2 wheel abs. The reason i said ish on the brake job was because my parking brake is seized so i put it all back together just without hanging the parking brake onto its shoe. It brakes just fine and i put it in gear when parking.

I've hooked up my scanners and gotten data and scoured the internet just to be back at point A over and over and now I'm desperate. Life is making it so that the need for Danger to be the daily driver is greater and not just a beater truck anymore.

Here's where she's at today.
-NO MIL NO DTCS
-SPARK ADVANCE IS 25° RARELY DROPS TO 17° USUALLY AT WOT WHEN IT DOES
-ABS LIGHT ON BUT I CANT CONNECT TO THE MODULE TO GET ANY SPECIFICS
-NOTICED WHEN RUNNING DATA THAT BARO READING DOES NOT CHANGE, KOEO, KOER, WOT.

Any thoughts at this point are welcome. I normally consider myself pretty competent with diagnostics but when it comes to my own vehicles it stumps me every time. I have 2 scanners that read live data (had to get a second for my Tahoe so i could read cam retard) so if someone wants a specific value i can get it no problem.

Thank you in advance. Even if its just because you read the whole post.

 

[franklin2]

Take it for a drive. Come back and park in it the driveway. Go around and touch each wheel with your hand. Warm is ok. You are feeling for one or two that may be hotter than the rest.

When you first start it up, is the ABS light on? Or do you have to drive it a little bit and then the ABS light comes on? If the ABS light is off, and then comes on after you are moving, you have a wheel sensor or some other sensor bad that gives the ABS speed info.

 

[SenorNoob]

Good advice. If anything is dragging, a couple miles and the edge of the drum/rotor will burn ya. Be careful.

 

[RobbieD]

Good advice. If anything is dragging, a couple miles and the edge of the drum/rotor will burn ya. Be careful.

Yes indeed. I always spit on brake parts before touching them, and even then lick my fingertips before a first touch.

I learned the hard way. And I've seen a hub boil spit it was so hot from dragging pads.


It's just little tricks that you learn, when you choose to drive a peice of shit . . .

 

[SenorNoob]

I learned the hard way.

Seems to be the only way I learn sometimes. LOL

 

[CamTheHedgehog]

It's just little tricks that you learn, when you choose to drive a peice of shit . . .

"I need a reliable daily driver", I said... Here I am on my second, 200K+ mile, 20 year old ranger.


Worth it! I have learned so, so much along the way, a lot of these little tricks and tips like you said, and I much prefer working on it versus something like my dad's 2015 Volvo.

 

[Mechrick]

The RABS connector is on the right side off the dash around the kick panel. Should be a black wire with an orange stripe. Grounding it will flash codes.

Some RABS setups won't store fault codes when cycling the key off. You may have to drive it long enough to get the RABS lamp on, then ground the connector without turning the key off to get codes.

Did you replace the master cylinder?