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2.3L ('83-'97) Will 94 accessories fit an 84 SVO engine?


devigiorno

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U.S. Military - Active
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Location
NC, USA
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Manual
Hi all,

I have an 84 SVO (2.3 Turbo) block and am wondering if the ranger accessories and accessory mounts will fit. I would like to keep power steering and the alternator in the same spot at least, keeping the AC might be a little difficult LOL.

Thanks,
dev
 


scotts90ranger

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Location
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Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
Yes, the only dumb thing you might run into is the third bolt on the power steering bracket wasn't there on the early blocks, I've drilled and tapped that hole before, worked fine...
 

devigiorno

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Location
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1994
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Transmission
Manual
Thanks!

Also wondering if you know anything about converting 2.3T blocks to use DIS or COP?

From what I've seen, I would need to drill/tap the block to mount the hall effect sensor from my 94 block and use the ranger pulleys.

If there is a way that I can avoid poking more holes in the block I would prefer that.
 

scotts90ranger

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
8,123
Reaction score
4,505
Points
113
Location
Dayton Oregon
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
yes, I've done it to two blocks...

Is your '94 block ok? It's honestly a better block to use, the ONLY difference in a turbo block and a N/A block is the oil drainback hole on the passenger side. If the bores are in good shape and the turbo pistons are in good shape I would combine those two.

The problem you run into on '84-85 blocks is the rear bearing cap is meant for a different type oil pan seal and you can't use the Ranger cast pan as is and the front seal housing for the crank sensor doesn't match the steel pan... I've dealt with this two ways, first was filling the trough in the rear cap with JB weld which settled and didn't seal all that well, next go around was to make a mold from brake clean can and made a lead bar to form into the trough which worked fine but was a pain... and the older block has bigger main bearings so has a tiny bit more friction (they swapped to small bearing in '86 I believe)

Getting the crank sensor to fit isn't too bad, make a template off of the original block referencing the alignment post for the crank sensor bracket, a couple front seal housing bolts and the bottom of the block (I used beer box...). I think there's two 6mm bolts needed, for the alignment pin I used a long 6mm bolt with a long shoulder and loctited it in place. You have to slot one of the front cover housing holes but not a big deal.

The only wiring change from the factory harness to run 4 spark plugs instead of 8 is if you have a factory tach, it won't work with the drivers side coil unplugged, simply cut off the connector and splice the 1 and 4 wire to the one for the passenger coil and the 2 and 3 wire to the one for the passenger coil (center wire just cap with a butt connector or something). It is IMPERATIVE that the DIS module is grounded to the 3 bolt holes, I know this from experience, it'll run until it doesn't which is random, it's how I rolled my '90...
 

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