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Broken Timing Belt 1993 Ranger 2.3L.


Kayak Mud Puppy

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What would be the best way to get the engine #1 cylinder in TDC when the timing belt has broken? I'm doing this to get the crank and cam shaft pulleys into the correct position to replace the belt. Can I just line the pulleys up with a wrench? I'm hoping there are marks on the pulleys and engine to allow this. Maybe a dumb question but I had to ask.
 


Winger

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remove the spark plug from #1 cylinder. You'll need a breaker bar/ratchet [and a strong arm] and a socket that fits the bolt in the crank pulley. You can either hold you're thumb over the spark plug hole as you rotate the engine clockwise and when you start to feel pressure building up you should see a slot on the crank pulley turn it till it ligns up with the TDC mark on the timing belt cover. Or you can get someting thin enough to go through the spark plug hole and long enough that it can't fall in! And again rotate the engine until the piston starts pushing it back out then watch again for the mark on the pulley etc. If the 93 has a timing index? I'm sure it does. then you'll have to remove the timing belt cover and turn the camshaft pulley until the pointer in it lines up with the middle index line you'll see this plastic index just below the cam pulley and to the right as you face it. Then you need to get a pry bar and pry the timing belt tensioner to the point were it won't put any tension on the belt so you can install the new belt. Install the new belt double check all you're marks the crank pulley hasn't moved on you the camshaft pulley is were it was and when you're sure everything is were its supposed to be release the belt tensioner and then tighten it down.
the cam pulley may move a little bit when you release the tensioner as long as it doesn't move off of either mark on each side of the middle mark it should be fine. If it does then repeat the steps again until you get it closer to staying on the middle mark. You've got the Distributor less ignition so it should automatically adjust the timing after that when you start it back up. Getting a Chiltons manual for this thing would be a good idea and answer any other questions for ya. Good Luck!:D
 
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shadetree

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You don't have to do the spark plug removal check with a broken belt. The timing mark on the crank pulley is always at TDC for #1 cylinder when aligned with the tab on the timing cover. The only other thing I would add to Winger's post, is to turn the engine over manually a couple of times after installing the new belt, and re-check the timing marks. When standing in front of the engine, turn it clockwise same as normal engine rotation. DO NOT turn it ccw as this is almost a gaurantee it will skip teeth.:)shady
 

Kayak Mud Puppy

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It's Alive!

I got the belt changed and there was only one real problem. The clearance to get the belt over and onto the crankshaft pulley required some thinking. I ended up wedging the belt to start it, turning the crankshaft by hand while pushing on the belt to kind of "shoe-horn" it into place. Ford could have gave us just a few more milimeters down there and the belt would have been a breeze to get on. I used a crow bar on the tensioner. I pulled the #1 plug and used a flashlight to see that the piston was at TDC.
It had been 8 months since the belt had broken. The truck was really slow in starting and idled rough for about 30 sec. But it settled down and ran like the old friend I loved for 13 years. The air conditioning even blew cold air. This is impressive since nothing has been done to the AC since I bought the truck used in 1994.
1993 2.3 Liter Ext. Cab Cayman Green and Grey 204,000 miles. I gave it to my sister-in-law when I took delivery of my Ranger in Feb. 2007.
 

Unearth904

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Hi Kayak Mud Puppy,

I have a 93 ranger that belongs to my grandfather currently sitting in my garage. His timing belt broke a couple days ago and I'm at the point of putting the new belt on. I am also running into problems with getting the belt on over the crankshaft sprocket due to the clearance issue.

I was hoping any advice or tips you could give me on getting the belt on would be greatly appreciated.
 

Rogue_Wulff

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Simple. Remove the bolts holding the lower pully to the balancer, then the big bolt in the center holding the balancer to the crank. It's amazing how easy it is to install the belt when the balancer is removed as it should be, so the crank gear mark can be aligned with the notch on the front of the engine.

Grab a haynes, chilton, or any other repair manual. It shows the removal of the pully/balancer as required.
 

DJ2.3

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I could be wrong but i think the issue UNEARTH is have is from the bracket that holds the crank sensor. I removed that bracket when i did mine. Maybe you don't have to but it might be easier for you. There are i think two bolts holding it on (or maybe just 1 i forget) and also a dowel pin to help align it. Over time though the bracket and alignment pin seem to corroded and fit tightly. It may take some penetrating lube and gentle prying to removed the bracket, but once it is off the belt will slide right in. Hope this helps.Someone please correct me if i am wrong.
 

Unearth904

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Well I got the crank sensor lose, but I'm having serious issues with the balancer bolt. I've tried a strap wrentch and attempted the breaker bar and bumping the starter. The battery seems to be dead. The dash lights won't come on so I'm charging the battery over night and see if I can get it lose tomorrow.
 

schmoo

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i dont know about a 93, but on the older ones, you can wedge a tire iron
in the shield on the crank pulley and make some clearance by turning the
motor over so you can get the belt on quickly. it helps when putting
a new belt on in the middle of a snow bank. ( step on the clutch as
you hit a big hard snowdrift or you will pop the belt.)
 

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