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2.3L to 2.8L stroker kit


88fordman

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so my 2.3L 88 ford ranger recently blew it's head gasket, i'm going to strip the engine bare and resurface the block and heads. this will be a weekends projects with my dad. now that i make decent money i'm thinking on updating the beast.

what i'm looking for is more torque and horsepower in low low rpms, were talking about idle to a max of 3000 rpms. i dont plan on racing the truck nor do i even take it above 2,500 rpms. i want really low rpm torque, its pretty hilly where i live and want that down low power so i dont have to rev the engine high or switch to a lower gear

i think race engineering sells a stroker kit that would take the 2.3L to a 2.8L
http://www.raceeng.com/p-13002-rotating-assembly2850-5600-rodbillet-crank-kit.aspx i say i think they sell it because i dont know if this is what this kit is for, meaning i dont know if this kit is to stroke the 2.3 to a 2.8

i would greatly apprciate it if you experts on here could answer a few of my questions.

with this kit would i have to trim anything for the new enternals to fit or should it be more or less a drop in kit.

roughly how much more power and torque would this add, since power numbers very on so many variables, maybe what kinda of percentage of power could i expect.

would this kit be realiable, sorry i'm a total noob when it comes to this stuff but would this kit decrease the engine life, assuming my block and heads are it tip top shape. i've heard that these kits are actually stonger than stock, but also i will be running more compression.

would i need to drop in a new cam to compensate for the higher compression ratio, i already plan on adding an adjustable cam timing gear.

is there another kit that would take it this new size for cheaper or is ther one thats better


i know that it would probably be cheaper to drop in a turbo motor or something like that, and i know i'm going to have to replace many parts which will cost time and money, but the thing is is that my father brought this truck new in 88 and its been in the family since, in fact he gave it to me as my first vehicle. i have so many great momories in this thing that its priceless. and i want to keep it more or less orginal, i know parts have been replaced but to replace its entire engine (whole engine block and everything else) seems like it would be taking something away from it, that it would no longer be orginal. but updating its parts seems more like a gift to the vehicle for all its hard work, realiablity and service over the past years.
 


88ranger89camaro

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its increasing the stroke of the piston, i know in a SBC (small block chevy) you have to notch the block to clearance the end caps on the connecting rod.

Doing that, a better cam and some head work would really wake the 2.3 up, but then again the turbo would to, i would think with you wanting low end power you could really benifit from the cam swap and head work

dont quote me on all this when it comes to making more H.P. i stick to my
V8's
 

Gotta_gofast

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2500 dollars!?! I wouldn't waste my time. Hell I could buy a V8 doner explorer for that.

In 88, I think those 2.3s were rated under 100 horsepower. With that stroker kit you might bump up to 120ish but that is very optimistic! With the cost of the stroker kit, the block machining for the kit, and all the other parts needed to make it worth your while it would be way cheaper to swap in a 2.3 turbo motor or even a V8.
 

88ranger89camaro

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2500 dollars!?!
i didnt see that :flipoff: THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yeah um he could do ALOT to his 2.3 for that price and have more power than that stroker kit ...... I got a friend with a pinto with a 2.3 with only head work, a cam, intake, and headers and it screams for what it is, not near a fast as his 351 pinto but still dang good for a 2.3
 

DJ2.3

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If money isn't an issue go for it. but if i was you i would swap in 2.5 internals and spend the 2500 on an aluminum head. Assuming you are FI, if you stroke it to a 2.8 or run serious cam/compression you will likely need some sort of tuning.
 

pinturbo75

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also, your 88 block is a large main journal.... to use your block youd need 2.5 main caps and spacers and have it line bored or start with a newer 2.3 or 2.5 small main journal block...
 

ES894x4

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nothing is going to give you the v8 torque like you want. NA its still a sohc 4cyl and stroking it isnt going to do much maybe 10-15ftlbs your going to hit the tq wall where you can keep upping the horsepower to 200+ but the tq will flatline somewhere around 150ftlbs no matter what you do NA. shifting below 3k should be cruel and unusual punishment on a 4cyl, no 4cyl is going to cruise up a mountain in 5th gear, down shifting and revs are apart of the game.
 

Hahnsb2

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shifting below 3k should be cruel and unusual punishment on a 4cyl
This.

Lugging an engine is usually a lot worse for it than revving it.
 

Mutant Pony

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The 2300 ford motor comes to life at 3000 rpms. It will run all day long between 3000 and 6000 rpm. Lugging down below 3000 will just take the bottom end out quickly! If you want to stay under 3000, the only engine that will work is a V8. A 4.0 ohv would work but, it would be right on the edge ALL the time. Never gonna happen with 2.3 based engine.
 

4b316

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Agree with all the above,if you want the torque,go to the V8 mod.If you want a good little pulling motor,get a 90-94 engine and put in a 2.5 crank,pistons and rods.Get a stage one roller cam,bore 40 over,wack the head 60,do the above mentioned port and polish on the head,24 lb injectors and run a good header.Should be able to put together a decent motor for under $1500,i have about the same in mine and we have about $900 in it but we had the two motors.Buy a 302 for $2-$300,get a kit and drop it in,takes about 50 hours to swap if you have the pieces
 

DJ2.3

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Hey 4B, what did you use to tune your motor? Is it using eecIV or V? I am currently using a D1L1 eec from a 92-93 2.3 mustang along with a tweecer and binary editor. I switched to the mustang one because i couldn't find much support for the ranger eec and i really wanted to raise the dang rev limiter.
 

4b316

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We still are using the stock 98 ranger electrics.We are searching right now to get a company to make us a chip to plug in to raise the rev limiter.Running right now at 6150 with 4.10,s but would like to jump up to a 4.56 gear and that would put us at about 6400. Working with Quarterhorse right now.Who did you deal with?
 

DJ2.3

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I originally bought a Tweecer directly from the company, but that came with limited support and could only change basic stuff like injector/maf/ignition and fuel. I recently purchased a used tweecer rt on ebay and have been tinkering with my daily driver. I did have to buy the Binary Editor software from eecanalyzer.net and i had to pay a few bucks for the "definition" from the owner. If i was buying a new device now i would definately go with the quarterhorse. Have you checked out turborangerforums at all? I am not sure what the 95 up guys are using but it might be worth your time to check it out if you haven't yet.
 

Meangreenranger

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I own a 1997 ford ranger 2.3 and I want to get more power from it by rebuilding the Top-End with Performance Grooved cam bearings and Cam shaft from a 89-94 2.3 and S.S Over Sized Racing Valves and Stiffer Valve Train. Also have the head milled how much milling can i go to be safe and get better compression ratio?
 

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A quarter of an inch or so ought to get the job done.
 

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