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Injectors aren't firing


Don't know if this helps, but I disconnected the computer, turned the key to run and there was still power to both leads on the injector. I disconnected the relay and there was no power to either lead on the injector.
 
johnnymac09 said:
Where do I put the wire? What is a MIL?
Click to expand...

MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp = Check Engine Light

with a 3" piece of wire at the self test connector, connect one lead to the Self-Test Input (STI, its the single pin connector) and the other lead to the Signal Return Pin. see attached picture for guidance (picture courtesy of turbotbird.com).

retrie1.gif


in the driver seat, turn the key on. after that, its just like any other code scanner, count the flashes.
 
koolmilds said:
MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp = Check Engine Light

with a 3" piece of wire at the self test connector, connect one lead to the Self-Test Input (STI, its the single pin connector) and the other lead to the Signal Return Pin. see attached picture for guidance (picture courtesy of turbotbird.com).

retrie1.gif


in the driver seat, turn the key on. after that, its just like any other code scanner, count the flashes.
Click to expand...

Great Tip, I will try that tomorrow if I have time to work on the truck.
 
Ok, Here is where I am at. I found two injector plugs with the insulation wore off the wiring, one plug on each of the injector sets. I repaired those and then tested them again. If I unplug all the injectors and use a test light I get power on only one of the leads, but as soon as I plug an injector in I get power to both leads. I am not ruling out that there isn't still a short somewhere but I am beginning to think that this is normal.

I was looking around at other forums and found somebody who was having a very similar problem starting their truck. It turned out that he didn't connect the crank sensor. Where is the crank sensor and how do I check it?
 
koolmilds said:
MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp = Check Engine Light

with a 3" piece of wire at the self test connector, connect one lead to the Self-Test Input (STI, its the single pin connector) and the other lead to the Signal Return Pin. see attached picture for guidance (picture courtesy of turbotbird.com).

retrie1.gif


in the driver seat, turn the key on. after that, its just like any other code scanner, count the flashes.
Click to expand...

If I did read this correctly I got a 22 code followed by an 11 continuos memory code.

Here is what happened, I turned the key and after a long pause the light flashed twice 4 times with a short pause in between then another long pause 1 flash a long pause then 1 flash 4 times with a short pause in between.

according to the tech library the 22 code is somethig to do with the Map sensor, how do I test it?
 
Code 22 = MAP out of Self-Test range.

while the ECM is running codes, if you pull the wire out, it will clear all codes except for C codes(although you have no C codes). run the codes again after clearing the O codes.

im not sure about testing a MAP sensor, im sure there might be a tech process in either the EVTM or the Helms manual for your specific year. just from looking at the overall engine schematic, when vacuum is applied to the sensor, you should see an ohm change between the 2 pins. though i dont know what kind of change youd be looking for.
 
Ok, I haven't had time in the last couple days to work on the truck, I will try clearing the codes next time and see what happens.

What I have been able to do is check a friends Ranger to verify the wiring of the injectors. Turns out that when the truck is turned off, if you disconnect 1 injector and test the the wires, they both are grounded. if you turn the ignition to on, both the wires will have power. Now if you disconnect all the injectors and turn the ignition to on, only 1 wire has power (I think it was red), but as soon as you plug in an injector all the other plugs in that set have power on both wires. It seems very odd to me, but that is how it works on my truck and my friends. So, Although I did find a couple of bare wires that no doubt could short and cause me issues, I think my injector problem is fixed.

However I still can't get the truck to start. I made a bit of a break through on Sunday, when I found that the vacuum line that goes to the throttle body was stuffed down into the frame and therefore not connected. I felt pretty silly after that, no need to judge. I hooked that up and the truck will now bump over like it wants to start but doesn't quite make it.
 
Solved

Hey Guys,

I know it has been a while, but I thought I would post my solution in case it helps somebody in the future. Like I said I fixed a couple bare wires in the injector harness and thought that my problems were solved. They weren't, I also had a faulty map sensor, that was giving the computer such a low reading that it was turning off the injectors. So no fuel was getting into the cylinders. I replaced it and it works great now. A tip though is that if your map sensor is bad, or you think it is bad, unplug the wiring harness from it and the computer will use a default program allowing the engine to run without input from the sensor. I don't recommend this as a permanent fix, but it get you out of the bush or prove that is your problem before you waste $100 bucks on a new sensor.
 
On the 60 pin connector at the EEC (computer) check pins 58 and 59 on the female side of the plug (truck side) you should have 12 volts. They are from the 2 banks of fuel injectors.
Check pins 20,40,49 and 60 for resistance. they are the ground pins for the EEC.
 
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