SixFoFalcon
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2008
- Messages
- 135
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
- 0
- Vehicle Year
- 1999
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 3.0L
- Transmission
- Automatic
At nearly 110k miles, I have a code for an upstream O2 sensor out of range. Normally I'm hesitant to swap O2 sensors before ruling everything else out, but in this case the sensors aren't too pricey and at their high mileage it's quite possible they are due for replacement, so I'd like to swap in the new sensors and see how that goes.
The passenger side was a piece of cake--the swap took all of 5 minutes using a 7/8" O2 sensor socket. The driver side is more challenging. The O2 sensor is practically resting against the engine block, which is making it impossible to slide the O2 sensor socket over it. I have to come in at an angle with the socket, and without clearance to straighten it out (it hits the engine block), I can only slide the socket down about 1/2 way toward the hex portion of the sensor. My 7/8" combination box & open-end wrench is mysteriously MIA from the tool chest, not that I'm sure I could even get that in there anyway.
Has anyone had success with an obstruction wrench or flexible/pivoting box wrench or flare nut wrench? I'm willing to buy such a specialty tool, but I don't want to spend all day running around picking up different tools on a trial and error basis.
And before anyone suggests removing the Y-pipe from the manifolds, understand that the flange bolts on the driver side are both rounded off. I'd probably have to do some surgery w/ a cutoff wheel to go that route.
The passenger side was a piece of cake--the swap took all of 5 minutes using a 7/8" O2 sensor socket. The driver side is more challenging. The O2 sensor is practically resting against the engine block, which is making it impossible to slide the O2 sensor socket over it. I have to come in at an angle with the socket, and without clearance to straighten it out (it hits the engine block), I can only slide the socket down about 1/2 way toward the hex portion of the sensor. My 7/8" combination box & open-end wrench is mysteriously MIA from the tool chest, not that I'm sure I could even get that in there anyway.
Has anyone had success with an obstruction wrench or flexible/pivoting box wrench or flare nut wrench? I'm willing to buy such a specialty tool, but I don't want to spend all day running around picking up different tools on a trial and error basis.
And before anyone suggests removing the Y-pipe from the manifolds, understand that the flange bolts on the driver side are both rounded off. I'd probably have to do some surgery w/ a cutoff wheel to go that route.