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Warped Rotors..Any Fix?


Jspafford

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It hasn't been all that long ago, maybe 5K miles since I had the rotors turned on the front of the B2. They stopped smooth for a while and now it is back to shaking back and forth upon stopping.

Is it common for the rotors to warp or am I just unlucky? I was thinking it was because I had them turned and maybe the are getting too thin.

I am thinking about replacing them both this weekend, but is there something better I can replace them with so I don't have to do this all the time?

Thanks!
 


v-8power

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Even new ones should be turned before you install them, to make sure they are true.
We make some rotors at work for big trucks and you would not believe the tolerence we are
allowed.

It would also be better if you buy bendix brake parts vs. autozone crap. just my .02 though.
 

Mutant Pony

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I have seen new rotors warped right out of the box but, it is rare. I've seen rotors warp quickly after turning out a warp more often. Put new rotors on it. They are fairly inexpensive.
Also, Keep your foot off the brake pedal unless you need it. Use the engine to slow you down.
 
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Jspafford

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I have seen new rotors warped right out of the box but, it is rare. I've seen rotors warp quickly after turning out a warp more often. Put new rotors on it. They are fairly inexpensive.
Also, Keep your foot off the brake pedal unless you need it. Use the engine to slow you down.
I downshift everytime I stop. I've tried not doing it, but it feels like I am missing something when I don't do it.
 

MAKG

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Two possibilities come to mind:

1. Mildly sticky calipers or master cylinder is dragging the brakes. If this is an issue, the rotor will look blue right outside the friction zone. It takes VERY little dragging to do this; it may not be noticeable in vehicle performance.

2. Near-minimum rotor thickness. This one is real fun, as putting a dial indicator on a cool rotor will yield acceptable runout, but a warp will develop when the rotor gets hot. The problem is just insufficient thermal mass; the fix is to replace the rotor.
 

Jspafford

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Well when I had the rotors turned the last time I could not get the pedal pressure back. I am sure you remember that thread. I capped off the MC and found it to be the front brakes causing the squishy pedal.

Long story short, both calipers are brand new.

I will tear into it this weekend. Right now I am replacing the bumper and rock shield.

I hate the damned bolts ford uses to attach the bumpers....especially when the spot welds break and the bolt heads spin.
 

canyoncritter

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Cant say I have ever had a "problem" with the rotors on rangers warping unless they were getting thin or a calibur/slide was sticking and causing a the pads to drag a bit.

kragen/vato zone, many moe and jerk off mid grade rotors.


the super el cheap-o's I have had problems with warping.


dont happen to run cermaic pads?

and your new calipurs, are they the plastic or metal pistons?....have had the plastic ones wedge them selfs before in the bore and stick
 
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AllanD

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Worn thrust surfaces on the steering knuckle can cause the inboard brake pad to be "cammed" into contact with the rotor and will cause the inner pad to stay partially engaged after the caliper releases....

You can check for this by pulling the caliper and pads and running your finger across the groove that the "tab" on the inner pad rides in.

compare the condition of the lower one (usually unworn) to the upper (usually trashed)

the best "fix" for the problem is to swap in a '95-97 Dana 35 front axle
which uses a the two piston calipers from the '95-up Explorer
which mount via a BOLT ON caliper bracket.


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Jspafford

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I've not looked into it yet. Now that i've sold the F-250 I don't have another vehicle to drive while I have it torn down.

The new calipers do not have plastic pistons.
 

mjonesjr

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I have seen new rotors warp because they were hot and someone hit a puddle and splashed them.

I would slap on new rotors.
 

AllanD

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I've cracked rotors doing the same thing.

then again I've cracked rotors without splashing water on them.

when I say "cracked" I'm talking full penetration cracks, not just surface cracks.

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