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Heater Problems


Larry02451

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My heater gets hot sometimes. At other times just warm. I have changed the thermostat three times with the same results. The heater works better when the heat indicator moves farther off of cold. Anyone had this problem??
 


srteach

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Check the radiator. Any gunk visible? If so, pull it and have it flushed at a radiator shop. Pull the water pump, check that the impeller spins with the shaft and is not loose.
 

modelageek

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finish filling out your profile so we know what engine you have etc. etc, what thermostat did you use? Does your temp gauge work and does the truck warm up in the appropriate amount of time? Does the outside weather affect the heat
 

modelageek

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I had a similiar problem with the truck in my profile. the engine would take a long time to warm up and the heat would be sporadic. I replace the thermostat with a napa product and it still did not work. I then changed it with a motorcraft f8cz-8575-aa. you need to make sure it is seated properly. it has worked great since then make sure coolant is filled and you burp all the air out of the system by squeezing the upper readiator hose. if you have the 2.3l i think you would use the same t-stat. the other t-stat had a sepaerat rubber gasket that did not seat properly and coolant would blow buy it thus takaing a long time to let the engine warm up
 

modelageek

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I just realized you posted in the 4 banger forum so you have the 2.3L. gives us more info about the issue such as. what t-stat did you put? if the engine is not warming up quickly it is a t-stat issue. if the engine is warming up quickly it is something else. are your heater hoses hot? etc etc
 

Larry02451

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I do have a 2.3L. I replaced the t stat with a 195 degree t stat from auto zone. The temp. gauge barely moves off of cold. It sometimes moves a little more than others and when it does the heater gets a little warmer. Sometimes it will get pretty warm but when I turn the heater fan on high it cools back down and the temp gauge moves back toward cold again. Thanks for any Infomation.
 

modelageek

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It sounds like you have the same issue I had. I might consider replacing the t stat with the motorcraft one.make sure it is seated properly in the housing If the gauge and sensor are working properly and it seems like they are the engine should heat up even if the waterpump fins were broken. I would suggest concentrating on getting the engine to properly warm up first. Then we can go from there if the heat is not working. Make sure to fill the radiator completly and burp out the air
 

Larry02451

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That's the same conclusion I have. I will try that.
 

countryboy

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is your antifreeze full and did you check to see if your collant was flowing to the heater core good.
 

modelageek

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I agree make sure the coolant is completly full and you burp any air out of the systems. I have noticed on my truck if my coolant is low or there is air that my temp gauge flucuates and that it might sho running cold but if I rev the engine while it is in park. That gauge moves up. I concluded that my coolant was low and reving the engine pushed coolant passed the sensor and made it jump.

But if the sensors and gauge are working but the engine is not warming up most likely u have a stuck open tstat the wrong tstat or an improperly installed tstat. Make sure the tstat is installed and seated correctly in the housing. You might even need to twist it a little to remove and or install it. Good luck
 

maverick1970

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I have a 1998 4 cylinder 2.5L automatc Ranger and my heater isn't working either. I thought it was a thermostat problem, because on the way to work Monday morning with the temps in the low 30s, it took approx 40 minutes before the temp gauge rose to normal and the heater air got hot. Assuming that the t-stat was stuck open. And then in the afternoon with the ambiant temps in the 60s, the temp gauge was normal while moving but jumped to nearly H when stopped, so it wasn't opening enough.

With those symptoms, I decided to replace the t-stat. I did that today and now the temp gauge will not go above the C and the heater remains blowing cold air. FYI... I did flushed the radiator. The two heater core pipes are hot along with the upper radiator hose. It acts as if the new t-stat is stuck open. Oh and get this, I took the old t-stat and put it on the stove with boiling water and it works fine. Opens in the boiling water and closes when dropped in cold tap water.

I am completely clueless as I've worked on other vechiles with similar problems and the t-stat replacement normally fixes it. Any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Jeremy/Jackson,GA
 

creepinjeepster

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I have a 1998 4 cylinder 2.5L automatc Ranger and my heater isn't working either. I thought it was a thermostat problem, because on the way to work Monday morning with the temps in the low 30s, it took approx 40 minutes before the temp gauge rose to normal and the heater air got hot. Assuming that the t-stat was stuck open. And then in the afternoon with the ambiant temps in the 60s, the temp gauge was normal while moving but jumped to nearly H when stopped, so it wasn't opening enough.

With those symptoms, I decided to replace the t-stat. I did that today and now the temp gauge will not go above the C and the heater remains blowing cold air. FYI... I did flushed the radiator. The two heater core pipes are hot along with the upper radiator hose. It acts as if the new t-stat is stuck open. Oh and get this, I took the old t-stat and put it on the stove with boiling water and it works fine. Opens in the boiling water and closes when dropped in cold tap water.

I am completely clueless as I've worked on other vechiles with similar problems and the t-stat replacement normally fixes it. Any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Jeremy/Jackson,GA
Sounds vapor locked. Burp the system again and make sure you have all air out.
 

maverick1970

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Pardon my ignorance, but what is burp the system? How do you do it?
 

modelageek

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I am not sure if this is the best way but it works for me. After I fill the system with coolant I let it get to operating temp and with the cap off I keep filling the rad as I squeeze the upper rad house. I sometimes have to do it 4 or 5 times until it is full. You might also let it cool of anf do it again. Remwmber to keep coolant in the overflow tank
 

Larry02451

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Well I replaced the thermostat with a Motorcraft stat. and the heater or tem. gauge still didn't heat. I removed the cover over the heater core and it was getting really hot. I decided the tubes inside the core were stopped up and water was just circulating through one or two tubes. I replaced the heater core and the temp. sending unit and now everything works fine. Thanks for all the help.
Larry / Wichita Falls, Tx.
 

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