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Manual 1354 won't shift?


GingerKid

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Odds are this is some dumb thing I'm missing, but I can't figure it out. I just bought a 95 ranger with a 3.0, m50d, and a manual 1354. I can't shift the case though. I've tried with the engine on and off, trans in neutral and in gear, I even sprayed some pb blaster on the linkage in case it was rusty. Still can't leave 2HI. Is there something I'm missing or do I have a potential problem?
 


fastpakr

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Does the shifter not move at all, or does it move but not lock into other gear selections? I don't remember it off the top of my head, but the linkage adjustment isn't very involved. If it's not moving at all, I'm not sure what to suggest.
 

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Pull the shifter mech off and see if the tab on the t-case moves. There is a large pivot bolt that holds the shifter to the trans. This could be gummed up making it real tight.

Big bolt is a 1 1/8 and the smaller adjuster bolt is a 14 mm
 

GingerKid

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Does the shifter not move at all, or does it move but not lock into other gear selections? I don't remember it off the top of my head, but the linkage adjustment isn't very involved. If it's not moving at all, I'm not sure what to suggest.
It does not move at all, which is why I though maybe the linkage was rusted in place. I'll disconnect it when I get home from work later and see if I can get the t-case to move.
 

AllanD

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actually the smaller bolt is 9/16" (slightly larger than 14mm, because the small bolt for the t-case shifter is also 3/8"-16 ENGLISH thread.

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actually the smaller bolt is 9/16" (slightly larger than 14mm, because the small bolt for the t-case shifter is also 3/8"-16 ENGLISH thread.

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Yup, I was just about to chime in with that. :icon_thumby:
 

GingerKid

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It's been raining all night, I'll have to look at it tomorrow.
 

GingerKid

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I went to mess with it today and it would shift, but it was still stiff. My guess is the linkage got rusted (the PO didn't use the 4wd), and the PB blaster needed time to work on it. I'm going to pull the linkage apart later and clean it up so it shifts smoother.
 

fastpakr

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Good deal. Give it some time and you'll be very happy with the results.
 

AllanD

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I would take the BIG bolt out spooge some waterproof grease in there...

what you don't already have a tube of "green grease"?

If you own a 4x4 you MUST have some of this stuff around...
 

GingerKid

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No fair, this is my first 4x4! I might have some waterproof stuff around here anyways, I'll take a look. If not, I definitely want to pick some up. Thanks for the tips.
 

AllanD

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The secret to happy 4wheeling is to keep a supply of the stickiest
synthetic waterproof grease you can find.

I actually tested the greases I was going to use by putting a golfball
sized glob of each of the greases in the running onto a piece of scrap
diamond plate and left them outside from september to june.

Several simply vanished, the three that were still there were
a glob of Dryden "Pyroplex" (bright red semi-synthetic wheelbearing grease)
"Green Grease" and the last one was an almost indestinguishable green product labeled as Quakerstate "waterproof synthetic Marine grease"

I figuire if a glob of grease can survive nine months out exposed
on a chunk of rusty steel set on a southern exposure on top of a
stack of tires and survive with only a bit of surface discoloration will
have no trouble sticking to the relatively sheltered area inside the
greaseboots on my driveshafts, tie rod ends, balljoints, wheelbearings
and axles.

The stuff inside my front axleshaft stubs is still kinda runny and still green
after a year and a half


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GingerKid

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I'm guessing I can find this stuff at Autozone or the like?
 

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