LBPete
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2012
- Messages
- 29
- Reaction score
- 1
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 3.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
I had to pull the 4R44E transmission out of my 2000 Ranger. I called around to rent a trans jack to find the local rental places weren't open on weekends. Like they say necessity is the mother of adventure, I started looking at my floor jack and what I had laying around in the garage. The result isn't pretty but it worked perfectly, completely stable on a flat concrete surface.
The saddle for the jack just slides into a bore in the yoke. I had some scraps of 3/4" plywood and some short pieces of 2x4. I spaced the 2x4s to catch the flange on the pan. This allowed the trans to be lifted by the pan bolt heads. The 2x4s are screwed to the plywood with long deck screws and even though I didn't have long enough pieces of 2x4 to screw them together in the corners, it was still rock solid with the trans on it. Only put the 2x4s on three sides. leave the back open so you can clear the cross member. It will also make it easier to maneuver the holder in-place with the arc of the jack arm.
To adapt it to the jack, I used a carriage bolt and an aluminum sleeve that roughly matched the diameter of the bore in the jack yoke. It also served as a compression sleeve that allowed the nut on the carriage bolt to be tightened while allowing clearance to let it swivel. A reinforced washer from a shock absorber worked perfectly to hold everything together. I also used a scrap of sheet metal to give it a kind of bearing surface to match the contact point on the jack yoke.
Originally, I centered the carriage bolt in the center of the pan but when I put the holder up against the transmission pan, I could see the trans would be front heavy with the weight of the torque converter so I move it back.
Here are some pictures. Like I said, it ain't pretty.
- Pete
The saddle for the jack just slides into a bore in the yoke. I had some scraps of 3/4" plywood and some short pieces of 2x4. I spaced the 2x4s to catch the flange on the pan. This allowed the trans to be lifted by the pan bolt heads. The 2x4s are screwed to the plywood with long deck screws and even though I didn't have long enough pieces of 2x4 to screw them together in the corners, it was still rock solid with the trans on it. Only put the 2x4s on three sides. leave the back open so you can clear the cross member. It will also make it easier to maneuver the holder in-place with the arc of the jack arm.
To adapt it to the jack, I used a carriage bolt and an aluminum sleeve that roughly matched the diameter of the bore in the jack yoke. It also served as a compression sleeve that allowed the nut on the carriage bolt to be tightened while allowing clearance to let it swivel. A reinforced washer from a shock absorber worked perfectly to hold everything together. I also used a scrap of sheet metal to give it a kind of bearing surface to match the contact point on the jack yoke.
Originally, I centered the carriage bolt in the center of the pan but when I put the holder up against the transmission pan, I could see the trans would be front heavy with the weight of the torque converter so I move it back.
Here are some pictures. Like I said, it ain't pretty.
- Pete
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