Old Ranger Build thread

A little background is in my intro here: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138194

87 Ranger ext cab 4x4. Planning what I would describe as a combination "mild offroad but still very streetable" build.

This is more of a placeholder so far. Will try and get some pics up as soon as I can...

Progress so far....

0) Got a 4.0 OHV, computer, harness and BW1354e from a '94 Explorer and an M5od from a '95 Explorer
1) Bought the Ranger and got the title transferred.
2) Removed the PO-installed roll bar - heading for C/L
3) Obtained 15" Steelies, and some misc parts from the J/Y
4) Picked up a 4.10 8.8 Explorer rear (with disc brakes and sway bar) (note-truck is currently 3.73 front/rear)

Near term work...

Get the @#$%^&* harmonic balancer off the 4.0 so I can get into the bottom end and start the rebuild

Pull the 2.9 that's in the truck - fix the leaking trans seal - put it back together so I can sell the engine and automatic trans in demonstrably running condition.

Find a D30 in 4.10.

Sounds like a plan. I look forward to seeing the pics!

Sub


Sent from my iPhone.

This is the only pic I have so far. From the original seller...



I've since removed the silver window gutter things, and the bed bar.

Difficult to tell from the pic, but the D/S front fender is creased (which broke the corner light). I'll likely be able to pop most of it out.

Other than the wheel arches on the bed and a few rust holes in the bed floor, the body is pretty solid. Frame's not pristine - will probably need a little bit of patching, but it could be worse.

nice looking first gen .

Sorry - still no pictures.

Hit the junkyard this weekend. Got a Ford-branded bed liner. Also got a tailgate. Not the greatest condition, but not rusty. Lotta dents to be filled and the latching mechanism doesn't work well yet. The PO of our truck made his own and, while it was quite an impressive bit of fabrication, my wife doesn't like it (we basically like OEM look).

The rod that runs through the cargo cover was bent on ours. Managed to find one to replace it. Got a valve cover for the new 4.0 (old one was rusted out), and an oil dipstick (I bent it pulling the engine - oops).

Today I went back to the jy and pulled a D30 out of a Cherokee. Not the best deal considering it needs new hubs and u-joints, and it's the wrong ratio. But it has the CAD, which I want (I know, I'm a weirdo). There used to be a bunch of CAD axle Cherokees at the yard, and at least two or three four cylinder manuals, which would have had the 4.10. Of course, when I need one, they've all been crushed. I checked the ratios on about 10 other Cherokees - all 3.55s. Plan to rebuild the one I got and swap in 4.10 gears and carrier to match the Ford 8.8. Probably also put in a lunchbox locker.

My reasoning with the CAD is, if the lunchbox locker clicks annoyingly, I can disconnect it with the CAD for daily 2wd driving - which is how my wife will drive it most of the year. If it doesn't, I can always get a passenger side axle and not use the CAD.

But if I use a non-CAD D30 and find the locker is annoying, I'd have to pull the entire axle to swap over to a CAD.

So I'm pretty much done junkyard shopping for awhile, unless a 1G Ranger hits the yard with a front fender or bumper, or I can find a step bumper from the back off a Ranger or S-10. So far, any trucks that have bumpers that would work are either dented/twisted or rusted to oblivion. Pretty much resigned that I'm going to have to buy a new front bumper from LMC. Hoping to avoid buying a new rear since they're so much more expensive, but we'll see.

Still no pics. Do have some updates though...

I got a nice used rear bumper from a j/y in Alabama on ebay. Less than half the price of a new repop. Has one ding right behind where the license plate goes, but otherwise it's straight and has decent chrome. Compared to anything here in Ohio, it's pristine in terms of rust.

It had the bumper pads. After some help from some fellow forum members, I was able to locate what appear to be the last set of pads anywhere. Ford no longer makes them, and Tasca couldn't get them, and there are no aftermarket reproductions. I found a former Ford dealer online that was selling off their old inventory and they had one left in stock.

Today, I ordered a new front bumper off ebay.

Cleaned out the garage a bit. Wrapped the M5OD, the York compressor and BW1354 in trash bags and put them in the bed of the ranger with the steel CV wheels to get them out of the way. Got a 15" beauty ring from Speedway to see if it will fit the CV steelies before I buy the other 3. Also have a baby moon hubcap coming from ebay. I'll have to add VW/Porsche retainer clips, but I think that should be easy to install if the cap fits the center. Shooting for a simlar vibe to a 60s Bronco.

About a week ago, I looked at the position of the engine from up top, and concluded that it may be impractical to try and relocate it back and down. But after crawling around underneath, I think it may still be doable. I need to get a tape measure and get some hard numbers now that I have the D30. If I do it, I'm almost definitely going to have to make the trans hump removable for regular maintenance.

Will be watching, its great to see other D30 swaps.

How are you planing on mounting the D30? I used ironman longarms.

dangerranger83 said:

Will be watching, its great to see other D30 swaps.

How are you planing on mounting the D30? I used ironman longarms.

Click to expand...

I know some will disagree with this approach, but I plan on using leafs, SUA. Like a Jeep YJ/CJ except with the shackles to the rear.

Finding a set of springs is difficult, since very few manufacturers put any specs on their sites.

Leaning towards the Rough Country 8004 Waggy 3" leafs, but I need to do more measuring first. May splurge for the Rancho 44044s, although they're 2x the price.

I also considered some YJ lift springs. Some of the HD are within the load capacity of the Ranger.

Plan on keeping the D30 track bar after I either mod the mount or modify the track bar to fit.

Basically, if I can make it all work, I want to put the D30 right where the TTB D28 is, with the same ride height I have now.

Edit: I'll probably need a long travel front driveshaft with the rear shackles on the front axle, although I won't really know until I get it mocked up. I don't need a bunch of flex - I'm looking for durability against ruts and rocks and long term maintenance. I'm also considering rear sliders instead of shackles, but a lot is going to be determined by what spring pack I choose and how it works with the weight.

It will be much easier to do coils, everything lines up but leaves can be cheaper. The stock yj leaves are what allot of guys are running on here. Only thing i was worried about was clearing steering linkage and letting it cleared during flexing. Also you will need at least 4 inches of lift to have the diff clear the engine cross member safetly.

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dangerranger83 said:

It will be much easier to do coils, everything lines up but leaves can be cheaper. The stock yj leaves are what allot of guys are running on here. Only thing i was worried about was clearing steering linkage and letting it cleared during flexing. Also you will need at least 4 inches of lift to have the diff clear the engine cross member safetly.

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Click to expand...

I haven't completely ruled out coils, but leaves is where I'd like to take it.

They're cheaper if I can get pretty close to picking the right spring pack the first time. If I have to do it 2x, then it starts getting expensive.

A lot's going to depend on the engine position. If I can get it back and down, then the front crossmember can be relocated elsewhere.

I plan on getting the front setup first, and then I'll make the rear match since there's a bit more flexibility back there. If I start SUA and can't find the room, then SOA isn't that much more difficult, of I could switch over to coils.

Now that the weather's improving a bit, I can get some good measurements.

I also haven't ruled out relocating the axle a bit forward - how far I can go is going to depend on the leafs unless I want the front mount points sticking out past the bumper.

If you are wanting to keep stock ride height but want an upgrade in the front and have it 99% bolt in then i would do the d35 ttb swap. Be much easier then moving the cross member, lowering the engine, etc.. Do be careful as there are d28/d35 hybrids but they are only found under some rangers, some had true d35, but all explorers have the true d35.

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dangerranger83 said:

If you are wanting to keep stock ride height but want an upgrade in the front and have it 99% bolt in then i would do the d35 ttb swap. Be much easier then moving the cross member, lowering the engine, etc.. Do be careful as there are d28/d35 hybrids but they are only found under some rangers, some had true d35, but all explorers have the true d35.

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Click to expand...

The D35 is still an option if the D30 doesn't work out. Several Explorers in the local pull-a-part I could source, but I already have the D30 and would prefer to go with a solid axle if I can make it work like I want.

If the D30 doesn't work out in the ranger, I have another future project I could save it for and pick up a D35. Going to try and leave as much of the TTB mounting in place as is practical until I'm sure I like the D30.

Plus, I find welding to be very therapeutic...

If going fit ride height with the d30, all ttb brackets will have to be removed.

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Any updates?

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