Correct cam and pistons for my build???

As the title says... I need some opinions!

You can check out my build thread below, in my sig, if u have ANYMORE questions!

I have a 1997 Ranger that I'm building aa motor for... Its all stock, with 189k on the clocks! She still runs HARD....

... BUT, I've grabbed another motor to build OUTSIDE the car! It will be a distributed, carbureted motor. The motor came out of a 1988 Mustang 4 banger (obviously), is in great shape (from what I can tell) and is a PERFECT donor for what I want to do! I've almost got EVERYTHING figured out - this is just where I'm STUCK!

NOW I'm trying to build a high compression, HIGH REVVING monster...(well ATLEAST 180HP AND A 7K RPM "LIMIT"!) SO HERE COMES THE QUESTIONS!!!! Ready?! Haha..

Im looking at cams, springs, valves and pistons right now but just CANNOT figure out what will pair up nicely for what I need! Now, the truck's new engine needs to ATLEAST be able to idle, as it WILL BE daily driven AND I will be racing at the local street track on the weekends. The head is being COMPLETLY rebuilt/reworked, from a P&P to a working of the combustion chamber to being milled about .100, not to mention the new parts that IM NOW ASKING ABOUT!

I need to know what pistons will work with a .030 bore and either domed or flat topped (?!?!) Like... would these work w/ the said mill job on the head? *PISTONS*

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003YOPIJM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1385227396&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

If those aren't the answer... WHAT IS?!

Now, head parts!!

I've looked EVERYWHERE for a decent cam at a SEMI decent price... But hell, I dont know what all the "lobe #'s, lift, duration" and all that $**t even MEANS! Not going to lie, without yalls help or ANOTHER 2.3L GURU, i would just be grabbing shit to grab it! Lol! I read that the STOCK CAM in my 1997 Ranger NOW is a "decent cam upgrade" to my older '88 Stang head, being built now... But I just DO NOT see that being aggressive enough! Or am I completely WRONG?

I found a bunch of cams here, but that tells me NOTHING - much less shows u anything!

http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/category/4cylinder.camsfollowers/

SO, AGAIN... what would be my best bet as far as my head's "equipment" is concerned?

IE: Cam, valves (oversized?), lighter "retainers".... Hell, am I speaking jibberish right now?! HAHA! Can someone just send me a list of what I NEED to make this truck run the way I WANT IT TO RUN?! lol

In all seriousness though, links to the products I would need (or SPECIFIC wording would be AMAZING!)

Any suggestions???? Please...

Oversized valves aren't important, a port job to a stock valve head is all you need. Lightweight components aren't worth the cost. The cam becomes more difficult, if you want 7000 rpm, buy a cam that says its made for power to 6800 rpm or however high you want. Just remember if you want to turn 7k, don't buy a cam for 7500. If so you will be leaving power on the table. If you can get a set of pre 96 roller rockers, I would suggest spending the extra on a roller cam. If you buy a flat tappet you will need new rockers. Definitely buy new lifters too, good ones, not stock replacement. Boport sells a cam kit that is drop in for $750, in my opinion its worth every penny. You don't have to have spring pockets machined to use higher lift. They grind down the base circle to achieve higher valve lift instead of making the lobe larger. However you can't use their cam without their longer valves, lifters and springs.

Also the pistons, if you're looking to turn less than 7500, hypereutectic pistons will work.

Mikel89us said:

Oversized valves aren't important, a port job to a stock valve head is all you need. Lightweight components aren't worth the cost. The cam becomes more difficult, if you want 7000 rpm, buy a cam that says its made for power to 6800 rpm or however high you want. Just remember if you want to turn 7k, don't buy a cam for 7500. If so you will be leaving power on the table. If you can get a set of pre 96 roller rockers, I would suggest spending the extra on a roller cam. If you buy a flat tappet you will need new rockers. Definitely buy new lifters too, good ones, not stock replacement. Boport sells a cam kit that is drop in for $750, in my opinion its worth every penny. You don't have to have spring pockets machined to use higher lift. They grind down the base circle to achieve higher valve lift instead of making the lobe larger. However you can't use their cam without their longer valves, lifters and springs.

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Mikel89us said:

Also the pistons, if you're looking to turn less than 7500, hypereutectic pistons will work.

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Like I said "Mikel", all of this is JIBBERISH to me, in all seriousness! I KNOW I want a Roller Cam, 100%, but which one for what I'M trying to do?! I mean, I do a little machine work here and there - on the side. But IM NOT one to rebuild an entire head and have no clue as to whats going on! Thankfully, i am in with a GREAT machine shop, that can build it for a decent price!

IF YOU DON'T MIND AND HAVE THE TIME...

Can you just wrire that out as a "list" for me? Just WITH SPECIFICS! Then i think i can find all i need! Remember, i want 7-7500 rpms without destroying something and a good 180HP!

Before you buy anything, I would recommend that you learn what all those specifications mean, and how they affect your engine.

This will help you in at least 3 ways: 1. you'll be able to spot BS or mistakes, before you spend money on them. 2. You'll have some idea what you're talking about down at the local track. 3. When something goes wrong, you'll have some idea why, and what to do about it.

Now, I'm not insisting that you need to know enough to design an engine from the ground up, nor that you need to be able to specify custom cam grinds. You should know enough, however, that you can pick out a decent cam from the offerings of a supplier, and know what to expect when you install it.

"Hey, guys, I need a shopping list of what to buy to make a 180 HP 2.3l" is a cop-out. You want to build YOUR car, not a copy if someone else's.

Spott

I agree with Scott, you should learn some more before you go building a motor. But I will give you the link for what I suggest you biy. Stage 2.5 of 3. I would go with the 3 myself.

http://www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=53

http://www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=47

They don't give profile specifics, but if you buy the kit, it comes with everything you need except followers, which can be taken from any 88-95 roller 2.3

Here is some stuff to look at also http://www.esslingeracing.com/faq.htm

Spott said:

Before you buy anything, I would recommend that you learn what all those specifications mean, and how they affect your engine.

This will help you in at least 3 ways: 1. you'll be able to spot BS or mistakes, before you spend money on them. 2. You'll have some idea what you're talking about down at the local track. 3. When something goes wrong, you'll have some idea why, and what to do about it.

Now, I'm not insisting that you need to know enough to design an engine from the ground up, nor that you need to be able to specify custom cam grinds. You should know enough, however, that you can pick out a decent cam from the offerings of a supplier, and know what to expect when you install it.

"Hey, guys, I need a shopping list of what to buy to make a 180 HP 2.3l" is a cop-out. You want to build YOUR car, not a copy if someone else's.

Spott

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, 'm a hands on, visual learner. Not much of a reading learner!

I was just asking for recommendations as to what Y'ALL would use, so I could do my research and then make a choice.

How many ppl run MSD ignitions and plug wires?! Not because they're "copying" ANYONE! Their just going with a well known brand with help in cade you need it!

Just want peoples opinions on cams and such, pistons, WHERE THE HELL TO BUY THE PISTONS FOR A HIGH COMPRESSION BUILD... Etc!

Thanks guys, y'all have given me some valuable options...

WHAT ABOUT THESE PISTONS THOUGH? WANT EM BORED .030 OVER AND FORGED, BUT CAN RUN ATLEAST A 10:1 COMPRESSION!!!!

My mustang at 11.2:1 has hypereutectic pistons, made by speedpro, $20 each. They work great.

Mikel89us said:

My mustang at 11.2:1 has hypereutectic pistons, made by speedpro, $20 each. They work great.

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Com'n man.... Quit BS'n! There's just no way!

I swear, that's what I used in alll my 2.3 dirt ministock motors too. I turned 7500 rpm on average. I ran over 8300 on one of the bigger tracks we used to run. The only time I ever had problems was when I had a cooling system failure I melted down a couple pistons. But my street car has 80k miles on the hyperutectics that are in it, plus half a season in a racecar. You don't need forged till you exceed8000 rpm consistently, or start throwing boost at it.

Mikel89us said:

I swear, that's what I used in alll my 2.3 dirt ministock motors too. I turned 7500 rpm on average. I ran over 8300 on one of the bigger tracks we used to run. The only time I ever had problems was when I had a cooling system failure I melted down a couple pistons. But my street car has 80k miles on the hyperutectics that are in it, plus half a season in a racecar. You don't need forged till you exceed8000 rpm consistently, or start throwing boost at it.

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I just looked into this! And you are right, sir! I'm excited now, their supposedly BETTER than forged for NA applications - I have 0% intentions of EVER boosting this motor! So that solves that, thanks a TON dude!

One question, I have NO IDEA what size bore, what should come with a kit, ANYTHING!

I GOT THIS FAR AND NOW I'M STRUCK! I WANTED TO BORE IT OUT BUT DEFINITELY NOT NECESSARY! HERE'S WHAT ALL I FOUND...

http://m.summitracing.com/search/part-type/pistons/make/ford/year/1988/engine-type/l4/piston-material/hypereutectic-aluminum?SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Asc&keyword=hypereutectic pistons&toggleResults=display

I would like a "kit" w/ all 4 pistons, not buy them individually. I'm not sure if they come with "wrist pins" or WHAT? I'm confused on this, but learning, I just need to know what to initially get! Lol.... Or learn ALL these measurements in a couple hours!! Lol...

I'm not installing them, a machine shop will be....

Would those work as just a drop in replacement?

ShotnVA777 said:

I just looked into this! And you are right, sir! I'm excited now, their supposedly BETTER than forged for NA applications - I have 0% intentions of EVER boosting this motor! So that solves that, thanks a TON dude!

One question, I have NO IDEA what size bore, what should come with a kit, ANYTHING!

I GOT THIS FAR AND NOW I'M STRUCK! I WANTED TO BORE IT OUT BUT DEFINITELY NOT NECESSARY! HERE'S WHAT ALL I FOUND...

http://m.summitracing.com/search/part-type/pistons/make/ford/year/1988/engine-type/l4/piston-material/hypereutectic-aluminum?SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Asc&keyword=hypereutectic pistons&toggleResults=display

I would like a "kit" w/ all 4 pistons, not buy them individually. I'm not sure if they come with "wrist pins" or WHAT? I'm confused on this, but learning, I just need to know what to initially get! Lol.... Or learn ALL these measurements in a couple hours!! Lol...

I'm not installing them, a machine shop will be....

Click to expand...

Basically, if you have an engine bored 0.030 over, it's going to be 0.030 of an inch bigger. Here is the stock spec for a 2.3, in terms of piston bore (how big the piston is, across the diameter):

2.3L stock piston bore: 3.7795 to 3.7831 in.

So, a 0.030 over-bore will equal:

3.7895 to 3.8131 in.

Also, I would research how any 4-cycle engine works, and what parts go where. Starting with the block, these parts are included in the block, and are considered to be "internals":

Pistons, piston rings (2 oil rings, 1 compression ring), wrist pin, connecting rod, main bearings, bearing caps, crankshaft.

Some parts are obvious, such as pistons and the crankshaft. Other parts, like main bearings, bearing caps, and wrist pins, are not. Wrist pins connect the piston to the connecting rod; it's called a wrist pin because while the piston moves up and down, the connecting rod has to move, using similar movement to the human wrist. The connecting rod connects the piston to the crankshaft. The main bearings, located inside the bearing journals (specially made, low-tolerance surfaces machined into the inside surfaces of the connecting rod and main bearing cap), allow the connecting rod to rotate around the crankshaft without breaking, using motor oil as a lubricant/heat sink. The bearing cap bolts into the connecting rod, around the crankshaft; most connecting rods are 2-bolt, some are 4-bolt, and some exotics are 6-bolt. Hence, this is why you'll hear the term that GM, back in the late '60s & early '70s made a "4-bolt main." They are referring to the number of bolts per bearing cap/connecting rod in a GM engine.

In terms of your kit, if you get those pistons, they should come with the connecting rods and wrist pins. An automotive machine shop should actually assemble them for you; installing them into your block isn't hard, as long as the block is clean and have the proper tools.