Fullsize Ford Tech Articles

[Jim Oaks]

Hey all,

In the coming months, I'd like to start working on a Tech Library soley for the fullsize Ford trucks.

I'm looking for tech articles and photos. If you have anything to contribute, please shoot me a PM or email me at jim@therangerstation.com.

Thanks!

[metalmacguyver]

This is a tech article on a Hydroboost swap on a 1993 F250 Diesel.

I got my parts from a 1991 F-Superduty.

1) Collect parts

You will need one hydroboost brake booster


Two power steering lines. From the pump to the brake booster.



From the booster to the steering box.


And one powersteering pump reservoir. This part is absolutely needed. It has two low pressure return ports. If you try to “T” the two return lines together, it will cause the brakes to drag after being applied. An unrestricted return line is absolutely critical to prevent this. (This image is in comparison to a ford ranger pump, the return on those pumps is different.)




2) Installation- disassembly.

Unbolt master cylinder from the vacuum booster. 2 nuts.



Remove vacuum hose. 1 clamp.

Remove clip retaining booster push rod to the brake pedal. 1 clip

Unbolt the booster from the fire wall and remove it. 4 nuts threaded on to studs on the booster.




Remove high pressure line from the power steering pump and from the steering box. It will drip some fluid.




Remove the fitting from the power steering pump. It takes a 15/16 socket. I will pop out. Make sure to catch it or these parts may come out with it. They are shown in order and position incase they do pop out, you can put them right back in.



Remove the power steering pump reservoir. With the fitting removed it pulls right off. Be aware that the reservoir still has fluid in it and will make a bit of a mess when you pull it off. My engine bay was already covered in grime so I just put a pan beneath where I was working and pulled it off. Disconnect the steering box return line. It was easier for me to do it in this order because of access.



3) Installation- reassembly
Pop the new reservoir on. There is a new O ring included with the reservoir. I chose not to install it as the old one was not leaking and it would have been very difficult to do given the access.



Install the new O rings on the fitting that holds the reservoir on.


Install the fitting and tighten. I don’t have a torque rating for this fitting. I just snugged it down a bit.

Reconnect the steering box return hose.

Install the hydroboost unit. Reconnect the pedal linkage and bolt it right up to the fire wall. This step is much easier if you have some one to help hold it up as it is quite heavy and you will be in an awkward position.


This is where you have two different choices. If you keep your master cylinder, you will be able to keep the divided reservoir that will retain some brake control if a brake line pops. The catch is that the spacing for the booster to master bolts is a little bit different. You can make it fit by filing the outsides of the holes.


The other alternative is to use the master from the F-450. It bolts up but the reservoir is not divided so it this will loose all the fluid if the new higher pressure booster pops a rusted brake line. This also involves rebleeding the brakes when your done.



Install the line from the hydroboost unit to the powersteering box. It is the slightly rusted line in this picture.


Install the line from the powersteering pump to the hydroboost unit.


Install the hydroboost return line and clamp it. I used a small hose clamp.


Add fluid to the pump reservoir. Remove the serpentine belt and spin the pump by hand until you need to add more fluid and repeat until all air is purged from the system or start the truck and do the same thing.


The risk here is that the ford powersteering pump is extremely intolerant of being run low on fluid. I started mine and pulled out of the garage. By the time I was out of the garage, It was whining and the sound has not gone away which tells me that the pump was permanently damaged. It still functions but it will forever make that noise.


Bleed the brakes if needed and take your newly upgraded brakes for a test drive. Be warned. The brakes will feel much different and will be much more sensitive.

[Jim Oaks]

Thanks!

I appreciate the article.

[1badexplorer]

73-79 Ford Truck 460 swap.
This is for internal balanced (pre 1982) 460 motors only.
A lot of this info will also work on a 67-72 body style but I personally have not done a swap on that year truck but I know a lot of the parts will interchange.

Swapping a 460/429 into your 79 and older Ford can be really easy or really hard depending on your parts availability and your specific truck.
Ford only offered 460s in 2wd trucks from 73-79 a 460 never came in a 4wd or in a truck with a 4spd.

The swap can be performed with aftermarket parts or a factory parts depending on what your preference is. A whole swap kit can be ordered online to simply bolt a 460 in however the kit is around $1800.
Some trucks are more difficult than others to swap into. For example, a 2wd is easiest because there are already factory parts and mounts for the direct bolt in. A F150 4x4 or Bronco are second being most of the factory parts off a 2wd will fit right in the ½ ton 4x4 frame. Last a F250 or F350 4x4 is the hardest being the steering box is on the inside of the frame as opposed to the outside like the ½ ton. In addition to the swap you must also consider Air Conditioning if you truck has it. A/C can make the swap even harder.

BELLHOUSING AND FLYWHEEL
You will need a Transmission or a Bell housing from a 351M or 400. If your truck is auto you will just use a normal C6 trans and converter from the Modified motor and use a stock 460 flex plate. If you have a 4spd, it gets a little harder. You want a cast iron manual linkage style bell housing for a 4spd not an aluminum one. The aluminum bell housings are made for external balanced motors that require a thicker flywheel. If your truck had a 351M or 400 then you already have the correct bell housing. You will need to modify the tin shield. The ID needs to be opened up as show. For a flywheel you will need one from a 360-390 FE Ford motor. But make sure you get the one with the same tooth count as a 460. If you don’t your truck will eat 5 starters in a month, I found out the hard way about that. I provided a picture showing the different in the 351M 400 flywheel bolt pattern and the 360-390 flywheels. For a 460 just use a starter for a 351M-400 motor.





Stock 351M 400 Bellhousing from a 78 F250


Yellow part needs to be removed



L&L blowproof bellhousing.



360-390 is on left and 351M-400 on right.

EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND HEADERS
For this swap you want truck or van exhaust manifolds. They can come from a Ford Van that had a 460 or a 2wd Ford truck with a 460. They also can come from an 80-up Ford truck that had a 460 motor. If you are using a car motor the driver’s side exhaust manifold is the same as a truck the passenger side car manifold does not fit and requires cutting the frame which then leads to a broken frame. Headers for a 2wd can be bought right for that application being it was a factory option. Headers for a 4x4 are “swap” headers which means they are expensive. These headers are available in both fender well exit and chassis exit. One of the most common brands is L&L. An average cost for a set of swap headers is around $600



Truck manifold on top, Car manifold on bottom.


Picture of car manifold in truck see how frame is cut. It was like this when I got the truck I'm gald it's only for parts because frame is already starting to crack.



This is a truck manifold in being used in a 79 F250 4x4 notice no cut frame.





Photos of my L&L fenderwell headers.



Tires rub when I turn and thats with 10" of lift and a D60 front which is wider than a D44. Keep this in mind before you purchase headers.



Drivers side manifold pic in a 78 2wd.



Pass side in 78 2wd.



Another pic of truck manifolds in a Bronco.

ACCESSORIES
If swapping into a 2wd try and find the factory brackets they will make things a lot easier. If you are swapping into a ½ ton 4x4 or Bronco the factory 73-79 2wd will also work as long as you have the standard alternator. Van accessories will also work in a lot of cases but the van brackets are big and bulky. Plus a van does not use the factory truck style power steering pump. Also in a lot of cases you can use the brackets for the accessories from an 80-up Ford truck. You can also buy all of the “swap” brackets online. Last you can also make the brackets; however, keep in mind that if the belts are not aligned properly they will fly off. I have seen many different homemade brackets and some are scary. However if you take some time and do a little fab work you can save a lot of cash here.



Van powersteering pump and bracket. It works but is very ugly looking.



side shot of same bracket.



Very ugly looking alt bracket. This was on the same truck with the cut frame.



Another van bracket but this truck has the A/C also.



This is the bought L&L alt bracket. This is used for F250/350 4x4s and trucks with the large 130 amp alt. Notice how they have a plate that bolts to the head to make a new location to bolt the alt. You can also make your own.


This is the set up I made for my truck because it is a 4x4 F250 and I have the large alt. I made a plate to relocate the alt also but I saved $250.



Pic of my powersteering bracket. I took a 2wd 78 460 bracket cut it in half and welded it back together.



I made another plate for the head on the drivers side to bolt the powersteering. Once again, I saved another $250



Pic of the bought L&L powersteering bracket for a F250



80-up truck alt bracket with smog pump bracket cut off.



79 2wd powersteering bracket in a 78 Bronco.





Stock 78 2wd brackets in a 78 2wd.



RADS, WIRING, AND OILPAN
Wiring is easy you can use you factory truck harness, you may have to lengthen a few spots but the rest is the same. You will want at least the 3core 27” wide medium duty rad for a 460. If you tow or four wheel or even for a show truck that may sit in traffic a lot I would recommend the giant 4core “heavy duty cooling rad”. If your truck is a 2wd you need a front sump car or 2wd truck oil pan. If your truck is 4x4 you need a rear sump pan. This pan comes from any van or 80-up truck with a 460. You must also use the pick tube (make sure you grab the bolt with the stud that holds the pickup tube also this is different from a 400), oil pump and dipstick that matches this pan 2wd or car stuff will not work. If your truck is a F250 and lifted pretty high Then you can get away with using a front sump pan. But not in a 1/2 ton of Bronco it will hit the tracbar!





Rear sump pan currently on 85 truck motor.



Here is my front sump pan in my F250 Keep in mind I have a 7" suspension lift.


See how close it really is? The only reason I did this is beacuse the front springs hardly flex so it will never get any closer. My dad's F250 however only has a 4" lift and his front sup pan is smashed from hitting the dif. I would recomend a rear in all 4x4s.



Pic of my "heavy duty cooling" 4 core rad. This thing is masive. It actually should sit 3" higher but I lowered mine because of a 3" body lift.


MOTOR MOUNTS
There are few possibilities here also. First if you have a 2wd truck you can buy the correct mounts and frame brackets to bolt it right in. For a 4wd it gets tougher. There are a few companies that offer “swap” mounts once again expensive. I have seen people bolt the 351M mounts to a plate of steel then bolt that to the 460 but this makes the motor sit too high. I have seen various other mounts had had hole slotted and used. But so far the best homemade are mounts from a mid 70s Ford Full-size car. The ears where the through bolt should go were cut off. Then the rivet that went through the middle was drilled out and replaced with a grade 8 ½ bolt that was welded to the steel back of the motor mount creating a stud. These mounts look very similar to factory mounts that would be on a 351M or 400 but they fit the 460 and set right down into the stock motor mount frame pedestals.





Pic of stock 2wd 73-79 truck motor mounts. This is everything for one side. You will need all 6 pieces total plus some bolts.



2wd frame brackets and mounts



close up of bought L&L mounts.



These are the homemade motor mounts using car mounts and drilling out a rivet and welding in a bolt.

I hope that this article helps when it comes time to swap in your big block. Keep in mind that if you don't want to go to the junk yard and search parts and fabricate like I did, you can purchase a complete install kit online. If you chose to buy one from L&L porducts, you would get the same parts that are in some of these photos of my trucks.

[Jim Oaks]

Thamks for the articles metalmacguyver and 1badexplorer!

I'd like to find someone whos done a SAS on a Fullsize Ford.

[metalmacguyver]

Sas for 1983?-1985 F350s, and 1983-1997 F250s.

Support truck by frame,
remove brake calipers from knuckles and wire to frame out of the way,
Unbolt front drive shaft from axle,
Unbolt drag link from pitman arm.
Unbolt TTb from leaf springs
Unbolt pivot brackets from frame
Dispose of TTB.

Install trac bar bracket on frame, 3 bolts.
Slide axle under truck, bolt up to leaf springs.
Install trac bar.
Attach draglink to pitman arm
Install calipers on D60 knuckles.

Drive your now solid axle truck.

Note.... I also swapped my hubs/rotors from my TTB over to my D60.