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fuseable link - where is it?


JeffRH

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I have a 99 Ranger 4.0. I just replaced the altenator, then the battery idiot light started coming on and the altenator gauge still shows no charge. I have had the battery checked twice and changed altenators twice. I did bugger up the plastic connections that go into the altenator, so I bought used ones at a salvage yard. Ford doesn't make those anymore.

In my quest to fix this, it has been suggested that it may be the fusable link. Where is it? Near the solenoid was suggested to me, but unfortunately, I don't know what it looks like or where it is. (My dad and brother got all the mechanical sense, both gone). Any suggestions for me? Pictures whould help. Thanks for any help.
Jeff
 


AllanD

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If your 99 is anything like my '93 setup the harness that directly connects the alternator to the rest of the wiring harness IS the fuseable link...

AD
 

JeffRH

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So just follow the 2 platic plug wires from the altenator (3 total) back to where they come out from a more numerous set of wires? What do I do? Cut the 3 wires there and replace?:icon_confused:
 

shadetree

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Fusable links are off the battery side of the fender relay, and should be marked. You will need a test light or meter to check them. Unless the wire is burned, you will not be able to tell if they are bad by sight.:)shady
 

JeffRH

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Thanks Shady.

I have been told so many things I feel lost. The if I take it to be fixed, it will be more than $100 for something I could do. All the wires are covered with black heat wrap. How will I find the fuseable link? I am a dummy.
 

AllanD

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So just follow the 2 platic plug wires from the altenator (3 total) back to where they come out from a more numerous set of wires? What do I do? Cut the 3 wires there and replace?:icon_confused:
It is the BIG wire that connects the alternator output to the battery terminal on the starter relay.

The field wires are "bundled with it"

If you replace it as an assembly it's a three minute job,
no cutting, no splicing, two nuts.

this fuseable link is a big fat one...



AD
 
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JeffRH

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Thanks AD,
So it is the big wire attached to the altenator with a nut (not the plastic clips) that appears to run over to the battery positive connection through the power distrubtion box that holds the starter relay? If so, no wonder I haven't found anything...I have been looking from the 2plastic clips attached to the altenator back.

So is my interpretation right? The wire you are talking about is "bolted" to the altenator and "bolted" somewhere over toward the battery? Replace that wire and be done?:shok:
 

AllanD

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Yeah, the main output wire from the alternator IS the fuseable link...

Or atleast it is on my 1993 Explorer setup...

It is the ONLY fuseable link in the truck... well actually there
are two of them... connected in parallel, because my setup
uses the 130amp alternator.

The "fuseable link" you have been looking for is about the diameter of a pencil.

SAFAIK it is the ONLY fuseable link anywhere on a 1990-up RBV.

at the body end it is connected to the battery stud on the fender mounted starter "solenoid"


AD
 

shadetree

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The large wire to the alternator will have battery power all the time. Use a test light to check the wire. If it lights the light, the fuse links are good.

One of the wires in the plug will also have 12vdc when the ignition is turned on, and 0 when off. This wire has nothing to do with fuse links. The other wire on the plug goes to the battery light.

To see if you really have a problem, you need to check the voltage across the battery posts with the truck running. It should have around 14vdc, +/-.

I checked the wires on my 94, and it has three coming off the fender relay battery positivie. One large one going to the power distribution box, no fuse link, and two gray connecting to a large black/or that goes to the alternator. The gray wires are fuse links.:)shady
 

shadetree

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its on the starter selinoid
The positive side of your battery goes to the fender relay. Some call this a solenoid, but it actually a relay. Power to the truck comes from the battery side of this relay.

There is a solenoid on the starter also, but the fender relay controls voltage to the starter soleoid.

The difference in a relay and a solenoid is that the relay is used to isolate electrical circuits, or uses a small electrical current to control a large electrical current. It can also be used for current control. This is what the fender relay does in Fords with a starter solenoid. It is a current limiter

A solenoid uses electricity to perform a mechanical task.

In earlier Ford systems, the solenoid was part of the starter in that it used the starter windings to pull in the linkage to engage the starter. In current systems, the solenoid is a separte device bolted to the top of the starter and it has it's own winding to pull the plunger to engage the starter/flywheel gears.

The starter design itself also changed. The magnets in the starter are permanent magnets, not electro-magnets, and the starter has gear reduction. This allows for a smaller, stronger starter. It is called a PMGR starter(permanent magnet gear reduction). So, don't go banging on the starter with a hammer as it can break the magnets and ruin the starter.:)shady



:)shady
 
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jimimeg

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starting trouble

The positive side of your battery goes to the fender relay. Some call this a solenoid, but it actually a relay. Power to the truck comes from the battery side of this relay.

There is a solenoid on the starter also, but the fender relay controls voltage to the starter soleoid.

The difference in a relay and a solenoid is that the relay is used to isolate electrical circuits, or uses a small electrical current to control a large electrical current. It can also be used for current control. This is what the fender relay does in Fords with a starter solenoid. It is a current limiter

A solenoid uses electricity to perform a mechanical task.
:)shady
Man,
what a great load (lode) of information. So I think this can help me.

If i trip across the two big terminals, key off, and the starter turns the engine over.......Then the reason it wan't start for me with they key must be a bad clutch switch, a bad neutral safety switch wire ( I have manual, but...), or a bad ignition, right?
maybe a bad fender relay?
or maybe just bad wires??
it started up great for awhile, then just stopped starting. There was a short to the dome light, but i pulled the fuse on that. The voltage at the battery when off is 12 or more, when running 14 or more..

anybody got any ideas?
Shady you got any more wisdom for me?

Thanks guys
jimimeg
 
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jimimeg

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Solenoid is ok

Well,
I put in a new fender mounted relay and it didn't help my non-starting trouble.

When I bridge across those two big bolts it makes the engine turn over. so ... my starter is ok, right.

maybe the starter solenoid?


Thanks for any help!
jimi
 
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AllanD

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IF the starter cranks when you bridge the two big terminals on the
fender mounted relay (Commonly called "the Solenoid") then the starter
AND the solenoid that's mounted directly on the starter if FINE.

The problem lies in the control wiring TO the fender mounted Relay/Solenoid
and that ammounts to the ignition switch, clutch interlock switch or the "jumper"
that's built into the transmission harness.

The "Jumper" bypasses what would have been the Neutral Safety Switch on
an auto trans equipped vehicle. It's a little loop of wire that jumpers two pins
together on the transmission side of the harness connector.

AD
 

nate09

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so, if i bridge the two terminals and the starter clicks once, (with the key in the off position), is the fender mounted relay junk?
 

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