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1994 Ranger swap to 4.10 or 4.56?


cmunn95

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Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Hey guys, first post here, I have a 1994 Ranger XL, with the 3.0 5 speed, I have stock 8.8 open diff with 3.73 gears, currently running 33x12.5x15 tires and steel rims, was wondering what my best bet is to go with 4.10 or 4.56? And is it easy enough to do myself? Is there a write up on the process for it? And also do i have to have the same gearing in the front? All help is appreciated thanks!
 


4x4junkie

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Location
So. Calif (SFV)
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
2.9L V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
35x12.50R15
4.88:1 would do you much better pushing 33s with a 3.0L (and would remain somewhat tolerable should you ever decide you want 35" tires in the future). The 3.0L makes it best power and is most MPG efficient at a higher RPM than say the 4.0L, or most V8 engines.

Yes, gearing must match in both axles if you wish to use 4WD.
Check the Axles FAQ post at the top of the forum, somewhere in the middle should be some links about setting up your own gears. Briefly, it's not something to be taken lightly... A number of special tools are needed (dial gauge, micrometer or a dial caliper, bearing pullers, press, etc.). It can be a great learning experience, though I don't suggest you attempt it if you don't have another vehicle to drive in the meantime.

Welcome to TRS. :beer:
 

bigmark303

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Location
RI
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1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0, 2.5
Transmission
Automatic
As Junkie said 4:88 would be much better for 33s with a 3.0L motor. 3.0L doesnt make good power until around 3,000rpm. Ive had a few 3.0Ls with 3.73 gears and would go through slave cylinders left and right when loading the truck with wood. all with stock tires size as well. 3.0L just never had good enough take off with any kind of load and 4x4.

If you dont have any of the tools needed or the time to figure out how to do the gearing yourself you can always send it out to a driveline shop. Its not at all expensive. Cost about $200.00 in labor per axle. If you go this rout remove the front pumpkin yourself so you dont get hit with the labor of removing and reinstalling the 4x4 in the front. Just give the shop the case and put it back together when you have time. You can drive without it in the front, just tape off the back of your spindles so dirt and water dont get in where the axle shaft would be.
 

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