What have YOU done to increase the tow capacity of your Ranger?

Also - load leveling distribution hitch. Seems I am the current tow champ here.

Well, I tried it with my 5lb sledge last time and it wasnt happening. Even after spraying PBlaster around the hub. I stopped because I believed I had missed something and was going to brake the rotor. So I put it all back together and did more research.

2002edgeplussupercab said:

Also - load leveling distribution hitch. Seems I am the current tow champ here.

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Whats that and whats it do?

When they said to use a sway bar from a BII, they mean a Bronco II (bronco 2). The ranger and Bronco II share many components. Bronco II is commonly shortened to B2, or BII here one the forums. Everyone seems to like acronyms here. Lol

pjtoledo said:

way too much hammer. something the weight of a standard carpenters hammers will do. get a real fast swing on it for best results.

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16-24oz ball peen hammer has left no rotor behind with my F150. 3-4 swift whacks and they pop right off. Have to hit it like you mean it though.

MADMODDER said:

I will be buying a Ranger very soon because I need a small truck. Im not looking to haul often with it but I do want the capabilities to carry a good bit of weight. I do have landscaping plans that include a short, single tier terrance. Ive already been looking into minor upgrades. Intake, exhaust, rear disc brakes, bigger diff cover, high quality trans and diff oil will be done. The truck I am going to look at tomorrow (4L, manual, sport super cab, 4x4) does have a tow hitch. If its not atleast a class III, I'll be swapping it. On the far end of the spectrum, MAYBE a tune, better clutch and air springs in the rear.

So what have YOU done?
What do you recommend as far as oils, clutches, brakes and diff covers go?

Thanks in advance.

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On my 93 3.0 standard I pulled a 10,000 lbs trailer. I added:

Big ball
electric brake controller
the big wiring connector in the back and wired it up
set of hijacker air shocks (95lbs of air when towing it)

I pulled that trailer from Houston to Minneapolis and back many times. Its hard on the emmisions when there is wind, the light comes on. You need to burn premium fuel. The tail shaft bushing in the trans will wear a lot, so monitor for seal leakage and replace as needed.

Thats my two cents. my trailer was a 7.5x18 cargo trailer and was 7 foot tall inside. Make sure the electric brakes work good. Smaller trailers should have that hitch style hydraulic brake system like they use on Uhaul and boat trailers. You will want a pin to disable for backing.

Nah.

The engine is not high compression. 87 octane is the only fuel requirement. Higher octane will not produce more power.

anto-sway leveling hitch

MADMODDER said:

Whats that and whats it do?

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Properly installed, it levels the truck and trailer together and prevents trailer sway.

ive put on 2,000 pound rated coil helpers, swapped out rear axle for one with a 4.10 ratio (had awful 3.45's), added a reciever hitch. also have a cap on it, maybe its just me but i feel the cap gives me a aerodynamic advantage, even running empty i feel its more stable rolling down the road.

2002edgeplussupercab said:

Nah.

The engine is not high compression. 87 octane is the only fuel requirement. Higher octane will not produce more power.

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I was told the 4L in the late Rangers are high compression.

MADMODDER said:

I was told the 4L in the late Rangers are high compression.

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9.0 to 1. my 94 2.3 is actually a little higher on compression ratio.

Engine Displacement (Cubic Inches) 245 CID
Type
OHV (1990 - 2000) (VIN Code X)
SOHC (2001 - 2007) (VIN Code E)
Bore x Stroke 3.95 x 3.31 inches
Compression Ratio 9.0:1
Fuel System Sequential Fuel Injection
Fuel Pressure
39 - 40 PSI (30 PSI @ idle) (OHV Engines)
64 - 75 PSI (SOHC Engines)
Horsepower
160hp @ 4200 RPM (1990 - 2000)
207hp @ 5250 RPM (2001 - 2007)
Torque
220 @ 2400 RPM (1990 - 2000)
238 @ 3000 RPM (2001 - 2007)
Oil Pressure 40 - 60 PSI @ 2000 RPM

2002edgeplussupercab said:

Nah.

The engine is not high compression. 87 octane is the only fuel requirement. Higher octane will not produce more power.

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3.slo is prone to detonation when running hot and hard even though it isn't a high compression engine. So, telsar's '93 Ranger might not make more power while burning premium; it will continue to make rated power.

MADMODDER said:

Whats that and whats it do?

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Quick physics of the attachment of trailer:

When I hook up my condo on wheels - 5k lb trailer, it puts ~600lbs weight on the ball of the trailer hitch. As the ball is ~4' behind the rear axle, this takes ~300lbs off the front; with the result being ~1k lbs is loaded on the rear axle. Result is 3 fold - hitch is overloaded for non-weight distribution, rear axle is over GAWR, and head lights are pointed to where the only thing they can do is track N. Korea missiles.*

So, while I could run like this, it wouldn't be safe and my insurance wouldn't cover me if I was in accident - at fault or not.

Therefore, I have a weight distribution (WD) receiver** - http://www.curtmfg.com/part/17002. When I load up the levers of the WD, it puts weight back on front tires, taking off the rear and as a result levels the truck.

I am now under GCWR and GAWR, within the 700lb rating of the hitch, safe to drive and my insurance will cover me (Well, at least they couldn't play the overweight card).

Now, with your truck and its max trailer of 2,500lbs; 10-15% weight on hitch, doesn't really have the issue with the rear axle overloading/front end pointing to sky. You could get a lighter WD hitch (Mine would make for a stiff ride) e.g. http://www.curtmfg.com/part/17345, but I'm not sure it would be necessary...

*My truck is '98 s/c with 4.0/auto, GVWR - 5310 and GCWR - 9,500 (max trailer 5,500lbs theoretical).

**WD receiver is bloody heavy, with ball/locks/etc it is almost 100lbs, and that is 100% hitch weight which needs to be deducted.

What have YOU done to increase the tow capacity of your Ranger?

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well....some take this more literal then others.

depending on the actual springs you have, 1200 pounds in a 4x4 sohc 4.0 is not really beating it up.

i run thin 8 leaf packs for stupid weight capacity and livable ride. i had a 6 leaf with explorer main and 5 real thin bastard setup that rode better then the normal 3 leaf ranger oem and held 2 k only dropping about 2 inches with no headlight aiming issues..





if you want to tow a race car around regularly then what Will has done here combined with some bags and trailer brakes will make it a breeze.

Will said:

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and if you add full float axles....you can tow 4 or 5k trailers fairly worry free.












mr wills





but for the average bear, the firestone type bags or hd airshocks really make towing to the factory rated line much more comfortable. in my experience well worth the effort. of course the ranger powertrain is an inefficient gas gobbling turd, but it is the actual dimensions of the truck for daily use that i prefer, and the platform modified with a decent powertrain upgrade and minimal suspension mods really makes for a useful machine.

there is some sketchy info in this thread...

the 87 octane thing applies to the obd1 type engines solidly, but not so much in the obd2 realm.

of course there are real limits to the oem powertrain.

i have tore up a shitload of the 8.8 axles over the years the regular and hd 31 spline.... which drove me to dana 60's...most people wont have that issue but with regular towing near the rated max 9500 combined rating, floater axles would be a smart upgrade...

even with a bone stock 8.8 that is properly maintained... towing less then 6 k total trailer weight with 1 k or so tongue on the rear axle i dont see as a threat when driven reasonably....

but my cruise weight was regularly 7 k plus which runs 4 k plus rear axle weight just driving around for many years. so really the 8.8 axles did pretty good for the level of abuse i was giving them.


i am confident with what your wanting to do...simple air shocks and quality trans cooler....your good to go.


the factory numbers are kind of bullshit though. most every 4x4 sc i have seen on an actual scale was 4k plus....3700 not something i have actually seen.

That old truck is looking good Bobby. You can hardly tell it's been rolled 47 times. Did you replace the cab?

I'm not going to mess with my Ranger anymore, but I do like that you used the leaf springs up front. I've got kind of the same thing in mind for my B2 frame and '83 Ranger cab. Wrong-side D60 on leafs and a 14-bolt with a turbo 6.2, th400, NP205. Have all the parts, but there are a lot of projects in the pipeline before I can mess with it.