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Replaced Crank Sensor on 2.3 But MAJOR PROBLEM!


birdmanslopy

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the tone wheel where it gets the signal is hitting the sensor... i never dropped the wheel to bend it or anything but when i turn it over by hand it hits at 2 different spots for a slight second barely scraping.

was this from an incorrect torque precedure? i might i could think that i could have a bent wheel possibly but then again this is the 2nd crank sensor of the vehicles life so how could it get bent.

any ideas? or suggestions

thanks
 


LearjetMinako

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Get a new signal tone ring. I have had mine out dozens of times, no problems with it so far.
 

scotts90ranger

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did you replace just the sensor or the bracket bolted to the block? it just sounds like you need to align the sensor, two little bolts and just slide sensor a little bit until it doesn't hit, rotate the crank to the point where you can see the two vanes passing through the sensor (there's a spot where you can do this) and just visually center the thing, or use a business card folded to 3 thicknesses as a spacer.
 

BRUTUS_T_HOG

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the tone wheel where it gets the signal is hitting the sensor... i never dropped the wheel to bend it or anything but when i turn it over by hand it hits at 2 different spots for a slight second barely scraping.

was this from an incorrect torque precedure? i might i could think that i could have a bent wheel possibly but then again this is the 2nd crank sensor of the vehicles life so how could it get bent.

any ideas? or suggestions

thanks
well the tone wheel could be bent, or the crank sensor mounting bracket could be cracked or broken from an impact.

there is a little plastic tool that SHOULD come with your replacement crank sensor. are you taking the crank pulley off the hub so you can adjust the sensor as you turn the hub?

i still have the tool in my toolbox for the next time i need it

 
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birdmanslopy

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i took at socket and a long 1/2 breaker bar and with little effort broke the bolt loose (which i know ant supposed to happen).
after i got a puller and removed the old pulley and sensor that was broken, never inspecting it i went to put it back on and seen that theres spots that are warped that makes it hit in 2 different spots.
the sensor came with the bracket also but no plastic tool that came with it.

i called advance,o rhiely (cant spell) bennett car quest and napa and none of them carry that plastic tool.

can i get away with not using that tool? i was thinking about trying to find another wheel which all the same stores also didnt carry and just putting it back on and hopin it dont hit.


also i searched and found the article oh how to remove your shifter so if anyone could anwser this one also id appreciate it.

On the write up here
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/shifterbushings.htm

says move the bolt to the other side tighten and it will pull the rod out, reverse precedure when reinstalling.

well i got 2 bolts one on the short one on the long, what one am i tightening?
 
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BRUTUS_T_HOG

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i took at socket and a long 1/2 breaker bar and with little effort broke the bolt loose (which i know ant supposed to happen).
after i got a puller and removed the old pulley and sensor that was broken, never inspecting it i went to put it back on and seen that theres spots that are warped that makes it hit in 2 different spots.
the sensor came with the bracket also but no plastic tool that came with it.

i called advance,o rhiely (cant spell) bennett car quest and napa and none of them carry that plastic tool.

can i get away with not using that tool? i was thinking about trying to find another wheel which all the same stores also didnt carry and just putting it back on and hopin it dont hit.


also i searched and found the article oh how to remove your shifter so if anyone could anwser this one also id appreciate it.

On the write up here
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/shifterbushings.htm

says move the bolt to the other side tighten and it will pull the rod out, reverse precedure when reinstalling.

well i got 2 bolts one on the short one on the long, what one am i tightening?
no you can't get away with not using that tool.. i tried to and ended up buying myself a new crank sensor and a tow (i was changing timing belt at school).. i turned the crank and didn't hear any rubbing so i put it back together and started hearing a tapping noise, then the engine died.

it broke the crank sensor AND broke the mounting bracket right off the bolts.

as for the shifter.. you remove the nut then screw it onto the other side and tighten it.. it will pull the bolt out of the shifter
 

birdmanslopy

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what side of the nut im asking though, because i tried to tighten it on the shorter side of the threads coming out and it didnt budge then i tried the longer side and it kept on getting loose like it was striping.

as for the alignment tool, where can i purchase one?
 

Duane867

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The ONLY thing that threads on to the threaded shaft is the nut its self.
You are not the 1st person to make that mistake :) Most remove the shifter retaining torques head screws and take out ball and all because they cant figure it out.

You remove the nut from the dash side of the threaded stud and place it on the seat side ( IE facing the seats ). Then tighten it down and keep tightening it down until the threaded shaft comes loose. Its got a slight taper to it. Installing it with the nut on the dash side draws the taper tighter and tighter. Swapping sides with the nut separates the taper. It may feel like its stripping out but its not. Its just the tapered and threaded shaft slipping out like it is supposed to. Think of it like a ball joint with no ball.

If the alignment tool didn't come with your sensor I would say it will be a special order tool. I would check around ( like Orielies or Advance ) for one that comes with the little plastic alignment tool and take the one that didn't back.
 

scotts90ranger

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you don't "need" the tool, like I said earlier, center the vanes on the sensor, I set mine up without the tool over a year ago after modifying my block to mount the sensor ('86 block), about 30K on it since then
 

BRUTUS_T_HOG

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you don't "need" the tool, like I said earlier, center the vanes on the sensor, I set mine up without the tool over a year ago after modifying my block to mount the sensor ('86 block), about 30K on it since then
so did i. it broke anyway. its just taking a big risk on breaking a new $100 sensor and the mounting bracket
 

scotts90ranger

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that's why I got a spare at the junkyard... it even survived the crank key and hub getting screwed up (a '86 crank bolt is longer than a '90, but doesn't look it visually...) and wobbling all over...
 

Bryan22

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i didn't use a tool on mine... 40k later. just use some common sense.
 

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