2.9 help please...

96Indyram · May 27, 2014

OK the fuel injectors, and fuel rail I am using came on this engine. ( salvage yard motor)
is there a difference in fuel injectors between the years? voltage?
I know the connectors on the fuel injectors were diffferent. new motor harness had plastic clips on the side holding them on.
Old motor injectors had the metal spring clips holding them on.
I know the wiring harness that came on the newer motor (bronco 2) had a big connector with like 7 prongs that had the injectors and tps sensor and other sensor plugs in it.. So I swapped it out with my old wiring harness that was 3 wires just for the injectors, because all the other sensors plugs are in my trucks main harness.

I can always put on my old injectors and fuel rail from the old motor that I know were good...and see if it will run.

Also will a bad tfi module in the distributor cause my issue?
the truck will run with starting fluid or gas in throttle body ( but will die as soon as it uses it up)...but would a bad tfi not fire the injectors?

the distributor and tfi came with this engine...I did put new cap, rotor, plugwires, and plugs. I can swap out the tfi with my old one that I know was good also.

RonD · May 27, 2014

If it starts up with starting fluid then spark is working.

Fuel injectors only have 2 connectors, that's all that is needed, wires can be daisy chained, 12v red wire is, and the Grounds on Batch Fire.
Not sure why you would see 3 connections???

So I think that will be your problem, injector wiring, 12volts is there which is good, but Grounds are missing it seems, which is why injectors are not opening.

This is a good page to book mark:
http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

This has pin diagram for ECC/PCM/ECM

Find the pin 58 wire, should be Light Green/white, that wire should run to injectors #1, #2, #4 on the 2.9l
Pin 59 wire should be Tan/red that wire should run to injectors #3, #5, #6 on the 2.9l

If wire color are not the same then use the wire colors that are on pins 58 and 59, those are the grounds that open the injectors

96Indyram · May 27, 2014

the 3 connections is at the end of the fuel injectors wiring harness, that plugs into the trucks main harness.
it is a round plug with 3 wires in it
kinda looks like this looking into it:

. .. o < red wire 12v from truck harness unplugged from injector harness..12 v plugged into also
. ..o o < tan wires 0v unplugged from injector harness 12v plugged into harness
. .. o < empty spot

ok that looks crappy...lol i will try and find a picture of the plug

i did not get a reading at the injectors themselves...i will do that when i get home tonight.

RonD · May 27, 2014

Truck side Tan wire should be 0v unplugged and 12v when plugged in, injectors only have 14ohms resistance so pass the 12volts between connections, tan wire should go to pin 59 on PCM

There should be another connector with Red and Light Green for the other 3 injectors

96Indyram · May 27, 2014

cool.. thanks for all your help RonD...it is greatly appreciated.

the complete injector harness on this motor goes to the one connection plug to truck harness that has 3 wires in it...no other plug connections on it...except on the injectors themselves

just frustrating..pull a running engine.... with cracked heads.and filled the oil pan with antifreeze..but it ran good.
put in a new motor...it wont run...LOL

96Indyram · May 28, 2014

O-tay.... todays journal update.

Put in the fuel injectors and fuel rain from my old engine...messed with a couple injector
o-ring seals to get them to stop leaking, and put eveything back togther.

reached in hit the key and it fired right up and purred like a baby kitten. YAY!

Let it run for about 30-45 minutes and made sure everything was good.
It has 0 oil pressure on the dash gauge..but I know it has oil pressure because their is no ticking or rattling at all. The oil sending unit on this engine is about 1" dia and sticks straight out. The old engine sending units body is about 2" dia. and is at a angle...so probably different voltage/ohms.
So I will swap them ( If possible) or put in a mechanical oil gauge.

put the hood back on and drove the truck around the country back roads for about 5 miles or so, everything was great....a lot more power than old engine.

parked the truck and let it sit for about a hour while I ate lunch and got ready for work.

I got in the ranger, it fired right up and I left for work. I got down the road about 2 miles from home and it died right there in the road...wtf???
It was like someone just turned the key off...nada...dead...cranks over real good and fast...but no fire.(sigh)
I put my hand on the TFI module on the distributor and it was pretty dang hot.

Called the wife to come tow it back home,...got it home... then Hopped in my other truck and hauled a** to work before I was late. ( 16 mile drive one way to work).

SO....bad TFI module?

Gilbee01 · Jun 10, 2014

Did you check to see if it overheated?? The tfi should get pretty warm after a while however it still may not be the issue. Let us know if it fires up again when cool.

-gil-

96Indyram · Jun 11, 2014

I let it sit a few days . And when i finally had time to work on it I hit the key and it started right up.
I removed the " made in china " tfi module and put the one off my old motor " motorcraft ford usa "
Everything seems to be working good so far...put about 100 miles on it.

96Indyram · Nov 18, 2014

Update time...5 months later.

Hit 3000 miles on it since getting it on the road and it been a great truck...up till now, pulling 22mpg.

It developed a serious miss /dead cylinder.
Truck idles great and starts right up.
1st and 2nd gear not bad....3rd, 4th, 5th you can really feel it miss...shakes the whole truck at lower rpms. (bam bam bam) Keep the rpm's high you can hear it miss but not feel it.

1: The engine I put in does not have EGR on it, but the truck is a 87 and has the old computer still in it that is probably looking for a EGR signal.
It has been running great up until now, but would it take 3000+ miles for the computer to finally mess up? No CEL has ever came on yet.

2: Compression seems good but have not checked it as of yet with a tester. Just my thumb pressing on the sparkplug hole. I could not keep my thumb pressed over the hole the pressure would push my thumb off quickly.

3: It has spark on that cylinder also. Changed out the distributor because of excessive play ( up and down) with my old one in great shape.

4: I have pulled the fuel injector rail 3 times and checked the injectors.
I would flip the rail over with injectors still installed, un plug coil wire, turn on key, then jump the start solenoid to watch them spray. The injector on my dead cylinder is intermitent and does not spray in a nice fan pattern like the other 5, but in a straight tight stream about 10 foot into the air. I tried the 6 other old injectors i have but all are bad and dont fire at all.

When the weather warms up I will also pull the valve covers and inspect my valvetrain
to see if a issue is there... but I think i have a injector problem, unless the engine computer is getting goofy.

What do you guys/gals think... injector or computer?

SenorNoob · Nov 20, 2014

Injector. Or the wire to that one. The symptoms sound exactly like my clogged filter. Except you've already pulled the injectors and seen the problem.

96Indyram · Dec 10, 2014

Update:
Let the truck sit awhile and drove the 2011 f150.
Ordered my parts from rockauto ...I am starting to love that place!

so today I replaced all the injectors, valvecover gaskets, plenum gaskets, upper radiator hose.
( 6 New injectors were $19.95 each, Felpro gaskets were $5 for valve cover, $3. for plenum, upper Gates radiator hose $3.33.)

Truck is back to running like a baby kitten. for under $130 including shipping.

2.9 help please...

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