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New heart for the Chevy


Ozwynn

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Back in August when I put new fuel injectors in my 6.5 Turbo Diesel, I cheaped out and got some cheap chinese junk Ebay injectors. I got about 1500 miles (last week of Nov) out of them before one of them cut loose and blew a tip (ofcourse this has to happen right after I part with a cherry crewcab fatback)...... the one that blew also must have been leaky because the glow plug on that cylinder burned in half ........ I'll gets pics of that glow plug if I can find it. I didn't take a picture because teffie dropped my camera in London and busted it....... after I tore down the block and heads I discovered a bent rod (the cylinder that was hydrolocked with fuel) and some damage on the crank and bearings from driving it home the last 6 miles (with out knowing what was wrong with it) with Diesel fuel mixing with the oil. I sent the block and heads to the Machine shop to be hot tanked and fluxed. The called me 2 days later to tell me one of the heads was cracked and there was cracks in the main web on the block.....

so started my search for a used Long block........ could not find a 6.5 long block in decent (as in not cracked) shape for less that $1500........ I did find a "J" code 6.2L military take out sitting in a shed for over 10 years (so its locked up). I paid $75 for it and the guy said he would buy it back if was cracked...... I am going to build a 6.2L/6.5L hybrid. now normally this would be a 6.2L block with 6.5L heads.... my heads are cracked so I am going to use the both the heads and block for the 6.2L with the 6.5's DS4 fuel system, injectors, Manifolds, and Turbo..... so basically I will end up with an electronic 6.2L turbo.


Whats this in the back of the 'Kick?






I'll get more pictures when I unload it tomorrow..... and ofcourse pics of the overhaul..... now that I got a new camera.....
 


Ozwynn

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If these pics are too big you guys need to tell me because I am viewing them on a 32" monitor............

pay attention to how clean this engine is. No sludge. No Rodent mess. Came apart like it was just assembled...... except the it won't turn over ..... even tried using a 2x4 and a dead blow hammer on one of the pistons ...... no movement...... bathed it again in PB Blaster before leaving ...... should get the pistons to move next sunday.







The above pics are with it on an engine dolly. We wrestled it onto the engine stand with the engine hoist after removing the heads.









Here are the Heads...... Driver side.









Passenger side









I eventually did find the casting number ...... it is a 660 block (2 piece rear main seal).... not as good as a 599 block but better than anything that came after 1994... 599's were only used from 1992 - 1994 so they are hard to find, plus being a standard bore 6.2 ...... it should not crack as easily as a 6.5. I still need to get the crankshaft out for a better inspection but it appears to not be cracked ... the heads are not cracked ...... The oil pan and heads have been off before... it had after market head gaskets and silicone under the valve covers and oil pan. It looks like a military take out that somebody put new head gaskets on and had to change the oil pan because the Hmmwv pan won't fit anything but a HMMWV
 
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mn_smokeater

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pics are fine looks like a bit of a project just to de rust the thing
 

Ozwynn

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pics are fine looks like a bit of a project just to de rust the thing
most of the rust just brushes off with a stiff nylon brush. I am not using those exhaust manifolds and they are what the rust has penetrated and caused flaking.

I am debating building headers..... log style for the turbo........
 

mjonesjr

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Looks good.

I know the military takes real good care of their engines. How clean the engine is doesn't really surprise me.
 

Ozwynn

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look closely at the 7th pic down ....... 4th rod ....... looks like it has a spun bearing.....
 

Ozwynn

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indeed the 4th rod bearing was spun





so was the 6th and the 8th.

while rebuilding an engine requires a moddacum (sp?) of skill... it is not rocket science...... TORQUE YOUR MUTHA F****N ROD BOLTS. Number 4 could have been loose (as in not finger tight, but not torqued down either) due to the bearing melting..... not 6 and 8 ... those rod bearings were burned and scarred but they were intact..... had just enough torque on them to need a ratchet..... the other 5 were torqued properly... took a little effort to break them loose.

the crank looks like it spent several days doing crank with a mexican and an asian hooker on somebody else's dollar ...... like a politician in Thialand.



Very important ....... always always alwasy mark your push rods from your 6.2/6.5L diesel engines ...... the end with the copper band is hardened is the part that sticks out ..... goes against the rocker ...... if you install it upside down your pushrod wont last long



here is the cam and 1 of the lifters ..... this is typical condition of the lifters I pulled from this engine....... hardly any wear ......





all the main bearings looked like this, the caps looked good too.



the other 5 rods and bearings looked new..... could even scratch the bearings with my fingernail...... not even close to broken in and seated .... no wear on the rings and not enough ridge to need the ridge reamer .... the pistons came right out...... looks like somebody forgot to torque the rod caps and that lead to bearing failures .......

now for the bad .....



the shop teacher thinks we can drill a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading and use a main stud girdle to hold it together.......

maybe lock and stitch .........


don't know how I did this.... but the piece it left behind was close enough to the top to get it with a magnet.......





more random pics .......
 
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mn_smokeater

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BDAB what am i looking for in that now for the bad pic?
 

Ozwynn

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you don't see the crack in the main saddle to the left of the outer bolt hole??????

I had to use a 2 million candle power spot light to see it ...... bit ut does show up in the pic ......


I can actually follow that crack all the way to about 1" from the cam journal.


I should also add ..... while it s 4,6, and 8 rod bearings that spun ... 3,5,and 7 were also damaged and about to go. 1 and 2 were perfect..... only connecting rod #4 is junk, 6 and 8 can be honed, 3,5,and 7 had no dis coloration.....

rods between the 6.2 and 6.5 are interchangeable.... so chances are I had replacement rods...... as my rod bearings in my 6.5 had no damage and are not worn out I might just re use the bearings from my 6.5 as they are already broken in and a cracked block is not worth any more new parts than it has to have.

I will have to fill fill this block (only to the bottom of the freeze plugs), drill a hole at the end of the crack, lock the crack (not going through the effort to stitch it) and use main studs and a girdle. I cannot use the crank from my 6.5 because will not fit in a block with a 2 piece rear seal.... and this block is not worth machining it to accept a crank from a 599 block.

got a line on a used 6.2 crank from a 660 block from a member at TTS. maybe ....... if he ever gets around to disassembling his parts motor.

I am just going to do a redneck rebuild on this block and drop it in my truck so I can drive it.... we really need 2 cars....... then get a brand new block and heads from Clearwater Cylinder Head..... going to cost about $2800 to build an engine from scratch..... another $750 for Gary's transmission to go through and upgrade my transmission with the latest (read better) heavy duty parts meant for the 3500 HD Silverados from this era....... another $750 for a decent turbo........ still cheap compared to the cost of truck with a Duramax (that are plagued with injector issues anyways) or a 7.3 power stroke Ford..... I would do a 6bt swap but I would still have to go through the transmission and good luck getting a decent 12 valve 6bt for less than 4 grand.....
 
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mn_smokeater

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dang yeah now i see it. ouch. hate to sound dumb here but thats from the bearings being spun out correct me if im wrong?
 

Ozwynn

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dang yeah now i see it. ouch. hate to sound dumb here but thats from the bearings being spun out correct me if im wrong?

they (whoever did it) should not have put new bearings in this engine. The crack is on the passenger side of the engine, thats the side that is crack prone because of rotational forces. the 2 dot precup denote this as a 6.2 HD...... used in CUCVs, HMMWVs, and commercial applications..... it did pull heavy at 1 time....

but then again .... I have seen the same crack on the same main saddle in a 599 (read the strongest casting) block that was used in a daily driven 2wd '95 Suburban.... it had never towed anything in its life or hauled anything heavier than a few bags of mulch.
 

mn_smokeater

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ohh ok i think i kinda understand now.
 

jaymegriffiths

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you don't see the crack in the main saddle to the left of the outer bolt hole??????

I had to use a 2 million candle power spot light to see it ...... bit ut does show up in the pic ......


I can actually follow that crack all the way to about 1" from the cam journal.


I should also add ..... while it s 4,6, and 8 rod bearings that spun ... 3,5,and 7 were also damaged and about to go. 1 and 2 were perfect..... only connecting rod #4 is junk, 6 and 8 can be honed, 3,5,and 7 had no dis coloration.....

rods between the 6.2 and 6.5 are interchangeable.... so chances are I had replacement rods...... as my rod bearings in my 6.5 had no damage and are not worn out I might just re use the bearings from my 6.5 as they are already broken in and a cracked block is not worth any more new parts than it has to have.

I will have to fill fill this block (only to the bottom of the freeze plugs), drill a hole at the end of the crack, lock the crack (not going through the effort to stitch it) and use main studs and a girdle. I cannot use the crank from my 6.5 because will not fit in a block with a 2 piece rear seal.... and this block is not worth machining it to accept a crank from a 599 block.

got a line on a used 6.2 crank from a 660 block from a member at TTS. maybe ....... if he ever gets around to disassembling his parts motor.

I am just going to do a redneck rebuild on this block and drop it in my truck so I can drive it.... we really need 2 cars....... then get a brand new block and heads from Clearwater Cylinder Head..... going to cost about $2800 to build an engine from scratch..... another $750 for Gary's transmission to go through and upgrade my transmission with the latest (read better) heavy duty parts meant for the 3500 HD Silverados from this era....... another $750 for a decent turbo........ still cheap compared to the cost of truck with a Duramax (that are plagued with injector issues anyways) or a 7.3 power stroke Ford..... I would do a 6bt swap but I would still have to go through the transmission and good luck getting a decent 12 valve 6bt for less than 4 grand.....
ok dude first off i would never spend over 3 gs on a 6.2. second getting a 6bt is so easy theres whole running trucks here for less than 4grand.
and the duramax injectors are waranteed until 330,000km's. one of my dads friend just had his changed on a truck with 310,000km's and they are 800 bux a piece but they were covered under warantee (even labor)
there was some charges but they weren't big and the duramax is a way more powerful engine then the 6.2s but milage is similair. if you were smart ud dump the cheapest 6.5 u can find in it and save up for a durm swap. stand alone engine managment is available and i read in diesel power that painless just came out with a swap kit for durms into anything.
google it its worth your time and not as hard as some may think
 

Ozwynn

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ok dude first off i would never spend over 3 gs on a 6.2. second getting a 6bt is so easy theres whole running trucks here for less than 4grand.
and the duramax injectors are waranteed until 330,000km's. one of my dads friend just had his changed on a truck with 310,000km's and they are 800 bux a piece but they were covered under warantee (even labor)
there was some charges but they weren't big and the duramax is a way more powerful engine then the 6.2s but milage is similair. if you were smart ud dump the cheapest 6.5 u can find in it and save up for a durm swap. stand alone engine managment is available and i read in diesel power that painless just came out with a swap kit for durms into anything.
google it its worth your time and not as hard as some may think
and if you were smart you would build a 351 for your truck instead of wasting time with a 302.

what about when the warranty runs out...... $800 for 1 injector and you have to take the cab off to change the head gaskets, glad you like them though ... maybe you should buy one instead of bragging about your dad's

You cannot find a decent running 12v 6bt around here at a decent price and the cost to retro it into a GMT-400, and make it work with a 4L80e ..... plus I would still have to go through my transmission anyways..... this truck is not worth the expense of a 6bt conversion.

and they (the duramax trucks) are still (again, for one in decent shape) about 3 or 4 times what it would cost to rebuild the one I have from scratch.... If I need anythign bigger than a 6.5T I can always use the 98 T-800 Kenworth I got sitting with nothing to do.

I stayed out of your thread when you made it clear my opinion wasn't wanted..... kindly stay out of my thread. You are on the ignore list as of now and I will have all your post deleted from my thread.

you do not have near enough life experience to offer me any opinions on anything in mine.
 
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Original_Ranger84

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Well I kinda see his point... but he could definately be less of a dick about it...

This actually looks like alot of fun (well to me because i don't get to wrench enough) Looks like you got yourself a good interesting project.

So the 6.2 will bolt up to your 6.5 tranny and everything? The 6.2L is a non turbo if I'm correct...? It is going to fair well with the turbo on it?
 

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