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3.0 HP and or MPG increase


1yldndn

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OK, After checking almost all of the 3.0 threads I have concluded that, 1. 02 intake, 2. escape TB, 3. under drive pulleys, 4. headers, 5. #17 or #19 injectors, 6. massaging the Mass air flow sensor will give me additional HP and milage? If I am able to change all of these things do I need to modify the computer? I understand that the 3.0 is no power monster but every little bit helps. I'm just askin if I'm headed in the correct direction. Thank you. :dntknw:
 


lskrogers

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This may be more than what you're asking for but you are not alone. I have a 3.0 in a 2000 Ranger and have the same problem; slow on the get-go and terrible mileage. I have managed through what I call "extremely careful footwork on the gas pedal," to get a consistent 17 miles to a gallon in town. I make sure I get the truck into overdrive as quick as possible and never use cruise control. I know, I know, the "experts" say that using cruise control provides more steady throttle control, etc., etc. however, when the engine detects the vehicle is slowing down, it down-shifts, sometimes one or two gears and then, the mileage really goes out the window. Then, add the fact that this truck is equipped with a 4.0 rear-end; it's a recipe for low mileage and speed. Oh, you'll get up to highway speeds but it just takes a while to get there. I have been to the land of Ford and they tell me they have heard this complaint 10 million times. The long and short of it, and I quote, "There is nothing that you can do other than keep the vehicle in (spark plugs, etc.) in good operating condition." Good luck!
 

1yldndn

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OK so i was just tryin to give my foot a rest. I, Like you, do the pedal manipulation. Thank you for the info. Any other gems of wisdom? I am looking for all points of view from every one. :c-n:
 

thepretzelman

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Have you tried filling up with plus. I tried it in my 2000 3.0 and I got an extra 2-3 miles to the gallon.
 

Simple_serf

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What are you shifting at?

The 3.0 likes to rev...It will get better milage if you have it in it's power band. If you have it in OD too low, you will get shitty milage.

4.0 rear? What is it geared at? Thats all that matters...most of these trucks had a 3.73 in them, which I think is too high. 4.10 would be better for the limas and 3.0.

that said, 17 isn't horrible for a 3.0.

There is no need for premium gas on a 3.0...if you need it to prevent knocking, you have other problems.

to the op...You get one or the other...power or milage, not both. Mutant Pony could tell you the best ways to get the most out of either a 3.0 or a Lima.
 

Big Jim M

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OK, After checking almost all of the 3.0 threads I have concluded that, 1. 02 intake, 2. escape TB, 3. under drive pulleys, 4. headers, 5. #17 or #19 injectors, 6. massaging the Mass air flow sensor will give me additional HP and milage? If I am able to change all of these things do I need to modify the computer? I understand that the 3.0 is no power monster but every little bit helps. I'm just askin if I'm headed in the correct direction. Thank you. :dntknw:
I have a problem with increasing the horsepower and getting better milage with ANY modifications to the 3.0 engine.
Sure there are mods that can increase horsepower...but more horses always eat more grocerys...right? The little 3.0 is engineered to get the most out of every drop of gasoline that is put in it.
It is hard for me to believe that some guy in a garage behind his mom's house can come up with a "spacer" to put next to his throttle body that will do anything he says it will do. Or putting the TB off of another sized engine will increase anything except to possibly make harder starting and lugging from stop lights..
A word to the unwary... all these "mods" could have been installed from the factory for the SAME amount of dollars that were spent on the vehicle in the first place..
Big JIm
 

BARanger

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i rebulit my 3.0 and put a custom ground cam it seems to have more power now than it
did before.
 

Bob Ayers

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i rebulit my 3.0 and put a custom ground cam it seems to have more power now than it
did before.
The stock cam is pretty much oprimized for bottom and top end. Without variable valve timing, a custom cam grind is going to give you more bottom end, and loose top end, or give you more top end, and loose bottom end.
 

fixizin

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What Big Jim and Bob A. said.

Still, I think there's several places FoMoCo could've shaved some serious WEIGHT, and failed to do so. Less mass = more power @ the drive wheels, given the same powerplant, eh?

I'm inferring from the original complaining posters that they have AUTOMATIC trannys... so sad for MPGs... takes a few HP to crank the internal ATF pump which pressurizes and operates all auto tranny mechanisms--torque convertor, shifters, etc.... I'm guessing it's like running 2 extra A/C compressors... maybe 3?? :dntknw:

The manual tranny not only saves fuel and reduces air pollution, it keeps you more involved with what you should be doing behind the wheel--DRIVING. (Might be why it's the norm in Europe, even in large luxury sedans.)

As an added bonus, a stick makes it almost certain that your wife/GF will NOT want to borrow your truck, LOL! :icon_idea:
 

1yldndn

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Thanks for all the great information.:pray: I'm glad I signed up for this site. I changed the plugs, air filter, fuel filter, the oil, and put on a new belt and ran a couple bottles of injector cleaner through the fuel system. I had a noticable increase of power and milage. I think I'll stay with the above mentioned items for now.
 

Ranger44

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4.10's and having a 5spd by far are the best stock combo w/ the 3.0.
 

JoshMcMadMac

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to the op...You get one or the other...power or milage, not both.
False. A lot of simple power gains can also optimize your mileage. I have ~40% more power in my car than it came from the factory, yet running stock wheels/tires I get slightly better fuel economy out of it then stock. With any car that runs a mechanical fan, upgrading to an electric version will get better power and better economy...that is where I would start (and am starting :icon_cheers:).
 

Bob Ayers

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False. A lot of simple power gains can also optimize your mileage. I have ~40% more power in my car than it came from the factory, yet running stock wheels/tires I get slightly better fuel economy out of it then stock. With any car that runs a mechanical fan, upgrading to an electric version will get better power and better economy...that is where I would start (and am starting :icon_cheers:).
~40% more power.....obviously from a S.O.P. dyno!!!!:D


Going to an e-fan will only give an advantage if the clutch on the mechanical fan/clutch assembly is locked up!
 

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~40% more power.....obviously from a S.O.P. dyno!!!!:D


Going to an e-fan will only give an advantage if the clutch on the mechanical fan/clutch assembly is locked up!
:icon_cheers:
 

JoshMcMadMac

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~40% more power.....obviously from a S.O.P. dyno!!!!:D
Nope. Dyno'd ~190rwhp stock and 270rwhp with my work done to it, and I am pretty sure I am closer to 300rwhp at this point, but I cannot be sure until after the dyno this weekend.

Going to an e-fan will only give an advantage if the clutch on the mechanical fan/clutch assembly is locked up!
Also false. Going from a mechanical fan that was in perfect condition along with the clutch to an electric fan gained me more than 1MPG, closer to 2MPG along with a few ponies.
 

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