New project 1992 Ranger Fireball

I had to take the trans out to put the proper spacer plate in front of the flywheel, so I decided to get some photos and see what the brain pool has to say about my clearance issues.

First, I did a test fit of the transfer case--just in case. That looks good.

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Then I put the trans back in and on the mount in the stock location:

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From the drivers side:

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The problem--still need to move it all back:

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Drivers side:
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Disconnected the trans mount to frame bolts, and put a 5000lb cargo strap on the trans mount and then to the rear bumper. Winched it back as far as I could: I couldn't see that gap in the bright sunlight, but the pic shows I can go a little further.
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I need that extra 1/4 inch! As it sits right now, the heater box will work, but that 1/4 inch is going to mean more mods to the heater box.

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View from the differential:

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You look to be back more then far enough. Get her buttoned up now!!

Those motor mount plates sure work better than the mustang mounts, don't they? Whoever made them sure had a great idea

SVT

I have to admit--the range of adjustment on that mount design makes life so much simpler than drilling and slotting holes in the subframe. Simple to install too! Great idea!!

I can't take credit for the original idea, but i did tweak the design a little. Best part is, it reuses the stock engine mount, so replacement pieces are simple and easy to get at any local parts store...

SVT

There are days when I wonder why I started this project. Got the engine pulled all the way back on the mounts and spent a lot of time this week modifying the A/C evaporator box. Put it all back in and then tried to fit the upper intake. It is sitting about 1/2 inch too far to the driver's side because of the A/C box. The 90 degree elbow is up against the box (hard to see below, but it is in the shadow).

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Below is a photo of the problem at the base:

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Another view:

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So then I started looking at my fan clearance again and discovered another problem. I got the 1/4 back that I needed, but the engine is offset about 1 1/2 inches toward the passenger side. In the photo I have the tape going from metal edge to metal edge on the radiator--18 inches. The middle is 9--right. The water pump shaft is not in the center which will screw my clearance for the fan. Did I do something wrong installing the motor mounts? I have almost 2 inches between the oil filter adapter and the steering box. If I could move the engine towards the drivers side my life would be better.

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Two inches is alot, I have less.then an inch but you are using different mounts that will set your engine up higher then me.

The centerline of the engine block boss and the centerline of the motor mount stud is only 1.5", even moving the centerline of the two to be in line (0"), you're still a 1/2" from the gearbox...

SVT

My son came up from San Antonio Saturday and between the two of us we developed a solution I think will work. There are extra mount holes in the passenger side of the cross member, so we used one of those to move the original mount back and down on the crossmember. We had to drill a hole for the locator pin. This moved the engine toward the driver side and gave us the clearance we wanted.

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Then our problem was getting the driver side mount plate to work. We were going to slot it sideways, but decided to just drill a hole for the mount stud as far toward the passenger side as possible.

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This works pretty well. The engine is still up off the crossmember, and level and we have clearance A/C evaporator box. We reinstalled the trans and even put the T/C in--which turned out to be amazingly easy.

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I still have a lot to do, and the radiator clearance may still require trimming the support, etc, but I'm happy with the way the engine is sitting now.

Glad to hear you found an easy solution. If i can be of any help, just let me know

SVT

Looks good. Makes me wish I had done a body lift and had an np205, would have made my life a bit easier.

Didn't get much done last week because we had an 8 and a 10 year old grandson here for the week. Back into it now. I decided that the core support is going to have to get slashed. With the 3" BL I need to move the radiator down to get it closer to the center of the engine. In the process I decided the A/C condenser is moving to the front of the remaining support. Looks like a pretty easy fabrication job. I cut out the bottom of the support and the 4.0 double core radiator tucks right into the space. Just had to drill holes for the upper mounts. I plan on building a box to support the radiator on its original rubber mounts on the bottom.
Hacked bottom portion of the core support:

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Radiator tucks in nicely:
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Over an inch of space between the Volvo fan and the water pump shaft:

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Radiator cap is still removable easily and is the highest point in the system:
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If I just build a simple box frame to attach the original rubber mounts to I can make it look pretty good. [/URL][/IMG]

Been working on the floor cover plate for the shifter and the T/C shifter. Just need to get that F150 shifter bent and shortened, and also the T/C shifter and I can button that part up.

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I also got my "hydraulic" oil lines made and I moved the charcoal canister up so I can mount the filter under it. Put a couple pieces of "insurance" steel under the slots cut in the trans mount so nothing can slide forward (as suggested by another member here). I've got the slave cylinder/master mismatch, so I have to decide if I'm going to change to a F150 hydraulic line, or try the Explorer master cylinder. BTW, my trans crossmember is in the original location. Throttle body gasket comes in tomorrow, so I can mount the upper intake. Still a little unsure about all the vacuum hoses, but that shouldn't be too hard.

Finished the oil filter relocation using hydraulic lines:

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Finally got the intake installed and vacuum lines hooked up. Will have to get a slightly longer brake booster hose to make it work:
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The original support bracket for the NP205 will sit right on the top of the frame rail on the drivers side. It won't have any rubber bushings like it did on the F150. Should I even try this, or should I get another bracket made up to use some kind of urethane bushing?
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Got a one piece drive shaft for 25$ and just need to get the right u-joints installed. Clutch master cylinder from a 1994 Explorer solved my problems because it has the correct line, etc. It's moving along now.

I would rubber mount it.

Since I'm using a 1989 Marquis wiring harness I've been going crazy trying to figure out how to make everything fit with the computer in the stock location. In the Marquis the computer is on the driver side of the vehicle. I was searching for information on that harness and came across an idea to solve my problem--maybe. I'm using an ammo can mounted on the left inner fender to an aluminum carrier to hold the computer.

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It is not bolted in yet, just sitting there so I can see how it will work. This gives me enough length on all the wires to get where they need to go and considerably shortens the distance for any splices. The relays for the Marquis are also on the driver side--I saved the mount for the relays and it will fit on the inside of the fender next to the computer can.

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I already cut the hole for the rubber grommet--you can see it in the first photo, so the outside elements will be kept out. I'm thinking this is a pretty good solution--but I'm still an idiot when it comes to where the wires must be spliced since the Marquis harness does not have the plugs a 93 stang harness has. It is all going to get painted purty before I finish the job.