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steering on Dana 44 front


boostedjd

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So I'm looking to build SAS ranger on a early 90s bodystyle ranger and today I went out and bought a Dana 60 rear and Dana 44 front axle, guy said they came out of a 79 f-250 Cummins. I was looking at the front axle hand have a few questions I'm not sure about the answer. One is this thing was leaf sprung all around and I know you can buy just the wedges but how do you figure out where to mount the wedges? Best way I can figure is just mock everything up and let it sit on the ground and see where they are and just weld them in place, I'm planning on using the duff tuff long arm kit btw. The second question I have is the type of steering. It has a hole in the tie rod on the passenger side for the drag link to tie rod type of steering. But it also has a bracket for what looks like a drag link would go into on the knuckle but it's on the drivers side, and it has three threaded holes on the passenger side knuckle where it looks like there could be a bracket mounted so the drag link could go to the passenger knuckle. The type of steering I want is drg link to knuckle because I hear that is strong and that way your toe angles and other stuff doesn't change when you lift up the front end and I hear its a lot better for driving on roads. Sorry if its a little confusing but I'm just learinign about this myself so if anyone has any info on if there is a bracket to attach to the passenger knuckle to do drag link to knuckle steering or how to figure out where to pug the wedges on the axle would be extremely helpful.
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/boostedjd/media/Mobile Uploads/IMG_20150208_152207576_zps40761769.jpg.html?o=2
passenger side threaded holes
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/boostedjd/media/Mobile Uploads/IMG_20150208_152153084_zps40965016.jpg.html?o=3
drivers side bracket
 
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93 4x4

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Go into the tech articles section and look under axle gears and lockers for Dana 44 swap that you give you some information on how to set the Dana44 up
 

boostedjd

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Anyoke know what this bracket is for? It almost looks like for a drag link but it's on the drivers side. It came out of a 79 f250 and I've seen it on a few of them but I can't find anywhere where it says what it is.
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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WAG [wild ass guess]; It would be connected to steering box, a box where the pitman is vertical rather than horizontal, via linkage. I have no true knowledge.
 
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bobbywalter

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yeah thats for push pull steering, you want crossover with coils. you may want to consider flat tops depending on ride height goals and sane trac bar angles.









setup and mock up like you describe could work well. be patient and take your time. i would center it up and chock the tires tight and then mount the arms to ball park caster adjusting that with a jack on the pinion. mark the tack lines for the wedges and tack them in for the trial assembly/bushing selection
 

boostedjd

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Alright that makes sense. So I'd just have to get rid of that in general and seems like most people just get the drag link to go staight to the tie bar and then I'll make some mounts for a Trac bar. Another question is since this came off a leaf spring vehicle and I can't cut off the drivers side mount since it's part of the pumpkin I was planing on using James duff radius arms and coils and every thing and just want to make sure that those radius arms will be able to fit on the exle and clear in between the leaf mount and steering nuckle, aND I know I'm going to have to cut off the passenger mount and whatever other bracket that is facing inward on the drivers side
 

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bobbywalter

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Alright that makes sense. So I'd just have to get rid of that in general and seems like most people just get the drag link to go staight to the tie bar and then I'll make some mounts for a Trac bar. Another question is since this came off a leaf spring vehicle and I can't cut off the drivers side mount since it's part of the pumpkin I was planing on using James duff radius arms and coils and every thing and just want to make sure that those radius arms will be able to fit on the exle and clear in between the leaf mount and steering nuckle, aND I know I'm going to have to cut off the passenger mount and whatever other bracket that is facing inward on the drivers side

this thread has some pics that may help....http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9844&page=3



i think your tie bar is the factory ram assist setup. the 150 r/a style has the link further over. you can do the tierod flip mod and adapt the stock 150 style steering....all depends on what you want.

ruff stuff is my preferred source for the steering when doing this....the track bar and steering stuff ships fast and is very cost effective.

i also use the k5 blazer stuff because its easy to mod, but requires beefing if you use bigger tires.....if i find a fresh setup in the junkyard to work with its definitely the cheapest solution. but i have reamers and welders and shit.



your kind of fawked with mounting the radius arms wedges because the pig mount forces you to move over the mount a bit. but that is only if you want to use stock ranger coil buckets. and the stock ranger buckets, while useable.... suck for this because they are offset canted for the ttb suspension......so adapting 70's 2wd buckets to space the coils out or making your own/buying from duffs or ruffstuff and installing the coil lower seats on the axle so they sit on the leaf pad side is the best way to go. the coils will line up good and not bow etc.
 

boostedjd

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I also have a dana 70 rear and need to replace the inner axle seals, I saw somewhere that the whole inner bearing and everything comes out and it has to be pressed out. I bout some axle seals but there seems to be a cover over the seal and idk how to take it out.
 

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buell-eyed-devil

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you need a seal puller...check snapon.com or maybe harbor freight has one
 

bobbywalter

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Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
that from april....


he needed to put the hub back on and the bearing nut on and pull out hard and the bearing and seal just pop out....then drive the races out with a drift if the bearing needed replacing.


that way you dont fawk the seal up if it is a good one and can reuse it....

when repacking after a water soaking i dont replace that shit if its good and just needs the frog piss cleaned out of it.

not cheap.
 

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