clutch adjustment after bleeding.

need info · Aug 13, 2018

hello, I have a 4 cylinder 5 speed manual ranger 2.5 l engine. I bled the slave cylinder after the hydraulic line was disconnected. After I bled the slave cylinder I have a good solid peddle. Now at idle or starting out in 1st gear as usual. I have clutch chatter going on. As if the clutch is engaging without enough gas peddle. Does this mean that I have air in the system still? Thanks.

Denisefwd93 · Aug 13, 2018

Bad clutch. You didn't replace the clutch and or flywheel or resurface the flywheel when you changed out to slave cylinder?

need info said:
hello, I have a 4 cylinder 5 speed manual ranger 2.5 l engine. I bled the slave cylinder after the hydraulic line was disconnected. After I bled the slave cylinder I have a good solid peddle. Now at idle or starting out in 1st gear as usual. I have clutch chatter going on. As if the clutch is engaging without enough gas peddle. Does this mean that I have air in the system still? Thanks.

need info · Aug 13, 2018

Denisefwd93 said:
Bad clutch. You didn't replace the clutch and or flywheel or resurface the flywheel when you changed out to slave cylinder?

my clutch was perfect up until I had a disconnect on the hydraulic line. I finally have it connected after a long time without using the truck. It seems like a super coincidence now the clutch is bad. Maybe hydraulic oil got on the clutch and its acting up. i appreciate your expertise, but what a bad coincidence. Im just saying.

Denisefwd93 · Aug 13, 2018

I don't think it's coincidence. didn't you have a frozen clutch back in the beginning of the problens you've had?
I don't think anybody here would tell you to keep the old clutch. they aren't that expensive if you have to take the transmission down anyhow.

need info said:
my clutch was perfect up until I had a disconnect on the hydraulic line. I finally have it connected after a long time without using the truck. It seems like a super coincidence now the clutch is bad. Maybe hydraulic oil got on the clutch and its acting up. i appreciate your expertise, but what a bad coincidence. Im just saying.

need info · Aug 13, 2018

Denisefwd93 said:
I don't think it's coincidence. didn't you have a frozen clutch back in the beginning of the problens you've had?
I don't think anybody here would tell you to keep the old clutch. they aren't that expensive if you have to take the transmission down anyhow.

yea your right, The clutch froze up because it sat for 2 months. I had some feedback back then about the rain could cause that with rust or what not. The line disconnected when I pressed the clutch peddle with force. The truck has been sitting in my garage and I finally put a new clip on with an o ring and bled it and it seemed good to go.
I see what your saying that you think the clutch was bad and that is why it froze. But what I am learning by trial and error is that when I have no hydraulic line the clutch is engaged and you can not put it in gear. If you try starting it in gear the truck will jump up because the clutch is engaged with the engine. Now I have somewhat a clutch where I can shift but when it is at idle or slow moving the clutch chatters as if the clutch wants to engage with the engine. it is only slight. So my logic is telling me that I have air in the line and the clutch is not fully open when the peddle is down and the engine wants to engage with the transmission. I have to try to bleed more and better, before I have the transmission dropped and replace everything. You have to admit what I am saying makes sense? Although I do have a good peddle and that is the confusing part. Perhaps the throw out bearing is not traveling the proper distance, or something like that. I admit I do not know a lot about this hydraulic clutch business, but I have learned allot in the last few months.

need info · Aug 15, 2018

Denisefwd93 said:
I don't think it's coincidence. didn't you have a frozen clutch back in the beginning of the problens you've had?
I don't think anybody here would tell you to keep the old clutch. they aren't that expensive if you have to take the transmission down anyhow.

Well, I had a friend help me bleed the slave cylinder and before this all started my clutch was 100 percent. Right now I have a full peddle and I would say I am at 92.5 percent of where I was before my clutch froze and the line popped. I have no doubt that your experienced advice is correct that I eventually will need all new clutch parts. You can say I am trying to milk the situation and not spend the money right now. especially since I am thinking about putting a rebuilt engine in and at that time I will definitely have the clutch parts replaced. If you get this quote I want to thank you for your help and also ask you one question. the check valve on the line going into the slave seems to be working all this time during the disconnect. Is it possible to get air into the master cylinder line when the line has been opened? Thanks again

Denisefwd93 · Aug 15, 2018

I just know all the trouble I've gone through with hydraulic clutches over the past 30 years, the Ranger clutch is actually simpler than some that I've had on other vehicles. I'm far from being any kind of an expert, but there are some very experienced and knowledgeable people on this site.

Its pretty much an unwritten rule, whenever you take a transmission off an engine you replace everything clutch related,

I do not know of a check valve, you may confusing the self-sealing feature of the connectors, and no they should not get air in them but don't trust that to be true.

The more you take the connector apart, the weaker the connection becomes!

if you had used a pre bled clutch master and slave setup it wouldn't cost much more and you wouldn't have the aggravation and difficulty you keep putting yourself through.

Good luck!

clutch adjustment after bleeding.

need info

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Denisefwd93

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need info

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Denisefwd93

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need info

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