Need Help, 1995 Turns Over but Doesn't Start Unless...

I took my ranger with me on some errands today and got stranded at the grocery store when it wouldn't start. There was a strong engine turn over but it would not start after several attempts. I let it sit for half an hour and it still failed to start.

However, I went back 5 hours later and it fired up so I got it home without issues. It also started again after I parked it.

I had the exact same problem in 2014 and had a "Cooling Temp Sensor" replaced. According to the mechanic it was reading invalid temperatures and causing the fuel mixture to be too rich.

Before turning it off I read all the ODBII data (posted below). I'm not sure if any of it helps but this was taken at idle. Does anyone have any thoughts?. I can answer any questions and post pictures if needed.

Thanks guys!

MAF/ 4.4 g/s
STFT1: -3% to 3%
STFT2: -7% to 3%
BOOST: -12.3 PSI
F/T 1x1: -2.3 to 3%
F/T 2x1: -4 to 2.3%
LPK(avg) 6.5L / 100 km
LTF1: 9.4%
LTF2: 9.4%
F/T 1 Long Term 10%
F/T 2 Long Term 9.38%

If fuel pump is original then that would be my guess, it often first shows up as a no start, and then starts up randomly until it fails completely

Fuel pump is not quiet, and it should run for 2 seconds each time you turn on the key, so listen for it.
Turn key on and off as much as you like, doesn't hurt anything, to confirm what the fuel pump noise sounds like, so the next time there is a no start you can "hear" if thats the problem.

Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR)
Located top front passenger side of lower intake manifold
It has Fuel Return hose attached and a smaller vacuum line
Remove this vacuum line and check if it has gasoline inside it, it shouldn't
FPR diaphragm can leak, and raw fuel is sucked into the intake via this vacuum line
You should have noticed a larger drop in MPG, and this usually wouldn't be intermittent no start from flooding, it would be consistent problem, but worth checking, free and easy.

All fuel injection computers have a "Clear Flooded Engine" routine
That would help you if you had issue similar to previous issue.
Turn key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor all the way and HOLD IT DOWN
Crank engine
Engine should NOT start, it should not fire at all

With key on, engine at 0 RPMs, gas pedal(TPS) at Full Voltage, the computer will shut off fuel injectors, but leave spark on
So when cranking engine you will be Clearing a Flooded Engine, all air no fuel

I use this every morning when starting my high mile 4.0l, I want to get oil pumped thru the engine before it fires up, i.e. no dry starts, lol.

As soon as you release gas pedal injectors will start, even while cranking.


As a test method for a no start you can use 50/50 test
Carry some Starting Fluid(ether), it comes in a spray can, and a pair of pliers
If you have a no start, open the hood and pull off the power brake booster vacuum hose from the intake, large hose, easy to access
Spray starting fluid into the intake and replace the hose.
Try to start engine
If it starts and then dies, fuel flow is the problem, i.e. pump or injectors
If it doesn't start then Spark is the problem
50/50

Thanks for all the suggestions! I am going to try to start diagnose issues when I have time. As far as I know the fuel pump is original.

There have been rare occasions where I park the truck for 15-60 minutes, starts fine but then immediately runs rough until I give it some gas. On an even rarer occasions it will die. When I say rare this happens a few times a year.

Just a follow up that I never experienced this issue again and I've driven it a lot in the last month.

another amazing truck that self repairs?