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EcoBoost Swap


adsm08

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Actually Mitch, a lot of that stuff won't be an issue.

The 2.3 EB is a turbo built version of the 2.3 DI in the Focus, which in turn is the Duratec with a different head. Things like cooling hoses should not be an issue.

The bigger problem he'd run into on those lines is the fact that the Ranger always had a mechancial throttle and the EB engines always had electronic ones.
 


stmitch

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Actually Mitch, a lot of that stuff won't be an issue.

The 2.3 EB is a turbo built version of the 2.3 DI in the Focus, which in turn is the Duratec with a different head. Things like cooling hoses should not be an issue.

The bigger problem he'd run into on those lines is the fact that the Ranger always had a mechancial throttle and the EB engines always had electronic ones.
What I meant is that in most applications, the EcoBoost 4 cylinders are transverse, so radiator hoses and things for those applications won't work in a Ranger. Electronics like PCM location will be in different spots too, so that increases the amount of wiring work needed. The Mustang has the proper layout, but it's still a totally different vehicle platform, so you'd have the same location problems and wiring.

You could probably buy a bunch of Ranger Duratec specific parts to make an EcoBoost work in an older Ranger, but that seems kind of silly when you can just get a Duratec Ranger to start with that has the trans, and everything else that would be needed right there.

But if you're going that far, and buying the Duratec truck anyway, why not skip the complex swap all together and just turbo a Duratec Ranger. Same performance for way less time, money and sweat. There are guys making custom Turbo headers for Duratec rangers, and that's the most difficult part of the entire project. Seems like the way faster, cheaper, easier option to me. No wiring, just bolt the turbo/header on, install larger injectors and your intercooler/piping and plug in the tuner. It would be done in a weekend pretty easily with some decent planning.
 

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Sorry everyone I stopped getting notifications on this thread, and had some things going on so I hadn't had a chance to update. The updates are first, I traded my truck for an 02 with the Duratec and manual. This way there's no messing with mounts and transmissions and rear ends and different diffs. It's in about the same shape as mine was, just way less oil leakage. [emoji23] Second, I have about $2500 in the pipeline from my PERA account that I'm cashing out after leaving my job. That will be enough for the EB motor and possibly for the Ford Controller. If I see that I'm in way over my head, I can always throw $2500 into a turbo, intercooler, manifold, exhaust, and tuner. My issue with this route vs. the EB is that Ford developed the EB motor to put out the power it does and warranty it so I don't have to worry about grenading it. I know I can just beef up my Duratec and not worry about it and not run as much boost but knowing how addictive boost is, I don't know that I'll be able to resist. Anyways, point is, the dream hasn't ended, I'm still in this!


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stmitch

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Sorry everyone I stopped getting notifications on this thread, and had some things going on so I hadn't had a chance to update. The updates are first, I traded my truck for an 02 with the Duratec and manual. This way there's no messing with mounts and transmissions and rear ends and different diffs. It's in about the same shape as mine was, just way less oil leakage. [emoji23] Second, I have about $2500 in the pipeline from my PERA account that I'm cashing out after leaving my job. That will be enough for the EB motor and possibly for the Ford Controller. If I see that I'm in way over my head, I can always throw $2500 into a turbo, intercooler, manifold, exhaust, and tuner. My issue with this route vs. the EB is that Ford developed the EB motor to put out the power it does and warranty it so I don't have to worry about grenading it. I know I can just beef up my Duratec and not worry about it and not run as much boost but knowing how addictive boost is, I don't know that I'll be able to resist. Anyways, point is, the dream hasn't ended, I'm still in this!
Good update! I think you made a wise choice starting with a Duratec truck. You know my feelings about the EcoBoost vs turbo Duratec route, so I won't rehash them, but I will say that I wouldn't be concerned with the strength of the Duratec w/boost levels equal to the stock EcoBoost/tuner you're considering.
 

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Well initial impressions on the Duratec and M5OD...
Duratec isn't bad, decent enough power and much smoother than my old 6. It needs some maintenance so I know it'll be buttery smooth after around $100.

M5OD isn't terrible, but the last manual I owned was a Miata so I'm missing that super notchy and ever satisfying clink that it's known for. Other than it being a little loose for my taste, it's not bad and I like the gear spacing. [emoji122]


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stmitch

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Hurst makes a nice shifter for the M5OD that cleans up the shifting nicely. It won't be like your Miata, but it's a definite improvement over stock.
 

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Got my refund today from my old job...a little over double what I was expecting so I'm going ahead with the EB build! Anyone have any recommendations for where to buy the motor? I've been checking car-part but if anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to hear them!


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Why not just build the duratec you have now? There is a lot of info over on turborangerforums on building duratecs.
 

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Got my refund today from my old job...a little over double what I was expecting so I'm going ahead with the EB build! Anyone have any recommendations for where to buy the motor? I've been checking car-part but if anyone has any other suggestions I'd love to hear them.
Might look for a late model salvage yard, ask around shops and dealers where they get used engines from.
 

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Why not just build the duratec you have now? There is a lot of info over on turborangerforums on building duratecs.

It's been discussed, I just want to do something different. [emoji4]


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stmitch

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stmitch

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$1200 for just a long block. That seems crazy. :icon_surprised:
The one I linked to isn't just a long block. It's a complete engine with just 2k miles.

You could turbo your 2.3 duratec in lieu of the 2.0EB, and make use of the extra displacement. :icon_thumby:
I've been suggesting just that for several pages, but nobody wants to listen. More displacement, much less complexity, lighter weight, and faster swap. Oh well...maybe someday I'll have an opportunity to play with a turbo Duratec.
 

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The way I see it, it'll be cheaper to do the EB as far as my situation. The Duratec I have has some valve noise, and 140k+ on it so I'd have to rebuild it anyway before doing a turbo. While rebuilding it, I might as well build it to handle decent power (450 wheel) so that would cost even more. Otherwise I'd be spending money to rebuild it, then build it up later. On the other hand, $2400 gets me a basically new engine and the standalone from ford. All I'll be missing is some fuel system changes, inter cooler, piping, and exhaust. If my engine was lower mileage or had no valve noise I'd have no issues doing the Duratec turbo set up.


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stmitch

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The way I see it, it'll be cheaper to do the EB as far as my situation. The Duratec I have has some valve noise, and 140k+ on it so I'd have to rebuild it anyway before doing a turbo. While rebuilding it, I might as well build it to handle decent power (450 wheel) so that would cost even more. Otherwise I'd be spending money to rebuild it, then build it up later. On the other hand, $2400 gets me a basically new engine and the standalone from ford. All I'll be missing is some fuel system changes, inter cooler, piping, and exhaust. If my engine was lower mileage or had no valve noise I'd have no issues doing the Duratec turbo set up.
Of course a 450whp Duratec will be more expensive than an Ecoboost with 250hp @ the crank. If you're calculating costs based on a 450whp Duratec, then you should compare it to what a 450whp Ecoboost would cost. If the end goal of this project is an engine with 250-300hp at the crank, that's easily achievable with a stock Duratec. Guys run 12psi on stock internals all day. If you want to rebuild your current engine a rebuild kit is $500. An entire used engine is well under $1000. Injectors would be under $500 easily and you could sell the stock ones to get a bit back. A tuner is $400. For engines of equal performance, the Duratec should be cheaper. The biggest selling point for me is the simplicity of it though. With the Duratec there's no wiring or reconfiguring required. It takes 5 minutes to load the tune and you're driving. That's not going to be the case with the Ford Racing control pack which costs 4 times as much.

But we've already been through all of this and you've said that you really don't care about that stuff. You've said previously that you're doing the Ecoboost because you want something unique and you want to be the first to do it. Don't go into it thinking that it would be cheaper or easier, because it really won't be. Just accept that, and get to work so that you can show some people how it's done and enjoy the finished product. It will be a unique labor of love. I understand because I built a heavily modded Vulcan 3.0, and while it's unique and I love it, there are certainly much cheaper/easier ways to get 250-300whp. We're all human, and sometimes what we want doesn't make the most sense, but that doesn't mean we shouldn't try to get it.

Also, if I could make a simple request, I'd love to see you keep track of your costs for the swap since you're the first to attempt it. It would be a great service to the community.
 
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