another 1988 ranger fuel problem

well im finding a few threads that have no end on this. i did the tfi relocation. before that it ran ruff and would die randomly. before i did the tfi relocation i put a new tfi in the factory location. started right up then sputtered then died. hasnt fired since. i can hear the pump prime when i turn the key but no START. i turn it over then check the fuel valve but no pressure. the tfi is hooked up with a brand new tfi and i tripple check the connection. if i spray some juice in the throttle body i get a small cough but not much. my summer is fadding not having my truck. how can i check the fuel pumps? i assume the one on the frame rail is good , i think thats the one i can hear. thanks

on the enerca switch do i hold it down or just push it.

Is your fuel system primed? Seems like my favorite question lol. But It s a good place to start.
If your fuel tank goes empty and you have to put gas in the tank you will have to prime the fuel system. It will take a little while for the fuel to get pumped through the entire fuel system (primed). So you cant just put some gas in and expect it to start right away. To prime the system you have to put enough gas in the tank to pump it through the system (1-2 gallons. trust me on that!) and then turn on the the ignition (key on but not starting) and listen for the HP fuel pump to turn on for a few seconds and then it will turn off on its own, then turn off the ignition and wait a couple seconds, try to listen for a relay under the hood to click off (2-3 seconds after the key is turned off), and then repeat the process(cycle) over and over tell the system is primed (try starting it every few cycles).

easiest way to check the inline pump is at the schrader valve, just prime then check the valve. you should get a good squirt. If not, move on to the pumps, and back here to let us know.

The inertia switch you just push it in and let go, Inside the switch is a metal ball that sits in a magnetized bowl. when you push the button it forces the ball back in the bowl. When the ball is in the bowl(normal) the ball seated in the bowl complete an electrical circuit that allows a signal to get sent to the EEC allowing the truck to start and run. If the truck is hit hard enough while running it will pop the metal ball out of the bowl breaking the circuit and no signal gets to the EEC witch will shut off all the fuel pumps, and you cant start it tell you press the button.
FYI: I'm not telling you or anyone to do this! but just in case of an emergency or the switch some how goes bad(but not likely) the switch is easily bypassed by unplugging the two pink n green wires that plug in to the bottom of the switch and connecting them together. This way the switch is taken out of the loop and a constant signal gets to the EEC allowing you to start and drive the truck.

ill do that tonight. thanks.

i unplugge the pump along the frame rail and tested it. when you turn the key the tester jumps to 12 ish volt then drops after a few seconds. but when plugged in the pump does not prime. i tested the tank pump and when you turn the key it jumps all over but no sound from either pump.

If you have 12 volts to the pump, then it drops of , that is the way it should be .sounds like a bad frame mount puump.
The other part of your post I did not understand.

Do you hear any relays clicking when you turn on/off the ign? You should hear 2 relays turn on with the ign, the PCM(tan) stays on and the fuel pump(green) should turn on for a couple seconds then turn off on its own. They are located under the hood on the passenger side wheel well next to the inner fender. The fuel pump relay is a pretty common part to go bad.

yes checked both relays and they are clicking and working. i replace them just in case. im leaning twards the frame rail feul pump. any suggestions on brand

There are so many different brand names out there its hard to say one is better than another, especially when allot of brand names use the same pump that's built by a single manufacturer, they just put there brand name on the pump. There is a few brand name fuel pumps out there that are good stock replacement pumps, some safe bets are motorcraft, Bosch, Walbro, and Carter. Most parts stores will carry at least one of those brands.

update. i pulled the frame pump and put power to it and it pumped the fuel that was in it out. but at the plug it shows12v when the key is turned to the prime position. but the pump does not prime.

Bad plug connection? I've had a plug that the o-ring inside was dry and wouldn't allow a connection until I used di-electric grease to smooth the way.

Richard

How about checking the in-tank fuel pump. If the frame pump won't prime, it would be logical to think about the in-tank one since it feeds the frame pump and the frame pump won't lift fuel through the in-tank one.

another update. i replaced the tank pump with a new pump, double checked all connections, including the tfi modiuale relocation kit. put electicle greese on all contact points. still no fuel pressure when i turn the key. i put 4 gallons of gas in it so i know the tank pump is in fuel. i pulled the frame pump put 12v to it again and its pumping with good pressure, also i replace the relays green and brown just in case. they click at the time the pump would be priming. any way it could be the ecu or the point where the tfi plugs into the distributer? i know im getting closer. but with a new baby dad dosnt get much tinker timer. lol thanks for all the help.

Have you run the test to see if you have any codes? It might be a simple ground problem(ha, ya "simple") or a wiring issue, or a bad part(TFI, ECU, pumps)
Oh and have you tried the fuel pump kill switch (inertia switch) mounted on the passenger side firewall under the dash? Just push the button on top of it.

ya, pushed it just in case and no go. ill plug it in and check to see if it throws any codes. is that the plug by the green and brown relays?