2.9l heads instalation inprogress

bert0427 · Mar 14, 2015

i have a 86 ranger i just installed a used engine form a 87 ranger. (2.9l) The engine has good power but ran like crap there was oil entering the intake through the PCV valve, all except 2 exhaust bolts were broke into the heads and the exhaust leaked like crazy. so i am in the middle of replacing with some different heads that i just got back from the shop. I am ready to go back togeather with it but had a few concerns... because i cant afford to do this wrong. its my mud truck but if i don't do it right this time it will be years before i get the money to try agin. so here are my questions...

-do i need to put anti seize or a lube on the head bolts for correct torque?
-whats a shade tree mechcanic way off cleaning the block for the new head gasket?
-What is up with the PCV valve spitting oil?

i am planning on putting togeather tomrow so any advise is welcome

Also I am poor white trash and proud of it so please any way to save money would be awesome!
:popcorn:

adsm08 · Mar 14, 2015

Lightly coat the threads and heads of the bolts with oil. Lightly is key, too much can hydro-lock the bolt hole. I usually dip the end (about 5 threads or so) in a spray-paint cap with some oil in it then rub it into the threads with my fingers. What you use isn't too important. I usually use 5-30 or 10-30 because it's what I have. On my 4.0 I got fancy and used 5-50 full synthetic because I had an open quart.

Razor blades. Go over the surfaces of the block and head, be careful to not gouge the metal, but be thorough in getting all the old crap off. Some spots on the block will be stained by the silicone of the old gaskets, you need to learn to tell the difference between a stain and a deposit. The best test is if you feel it with your nail. Brake cleaner is your friend here. It will help loosen and lift the stuff you want off. Plan to go through a can or two of brake clean and 3 or four razors per side.

I also like to spray the head gaskets down with permatex copper spray RTV before installing them.

PCV valves can suck oil for a number of reasons. The easiest one to address is the valve itself. The rest of them are base-engine related and so should (hopefully) have been addressed by the wholesale replacement of the engine.

Oh, remember, new head bolts. Don't reuse the head bolts. If you do you will find that you need to do this again shortly.

bert0427 · Mar 14, 2015

Hey man thanks so much for your input. I will be sure to do that. I do have another question about the head bolts tho... I have a tap and die set i used them on the old bolts and plan on using it for the bolt holes too do you think that would work so i don't have to buy new head bolts?
and also your saying just replace the PCV valve with a new one?

adsm08 · Mar 15, 2015

Ok, you clearly do not understand why you have to replace the head bolts. It has nothing to do with the condition of the threads and everything to do with the design of the bolt.

All bolts have to stretch a certain amount when tightened to hold the tension you put on them and not come loose and back out. Most common bolts will then return to their original shape when loosened, like an elastic waist band. Head bolts have to stretch a bit farther to keep tight and hold even clamping force on the head and gasket. To that end engineers began using what is called a "Torque to Yield" or TTY head bolt.

What TTY bolts do, when you torque them down you don't just go to a certain foot-pound number and stop, you have to go to a set torque and then move them a little farther, usually done with a series of 45* or 90* turns. This makes the bolts "yield", or give. The last set of turns takes them past the point where the metal can return to it's original shape, and so once you loosen that bolt up it is destroyed because it doesn't have enough give in it to get tight and stay tight anymore.

You can run all the re-threading tools over them you want, but if you reuse those head bolts you will blow your head gaskets before the summer is over.

I understand you are on a tight budget, and I get working on a budget, I am usually pretty squeezed for money to fix my truck as well, but when you are doing engine work like head replacement, do it right the first time or don't do it at all. Otherwise you just wasted a bunch of money doing it wrong, because all those gaskets you bought, all that time and effort you put it, it's all wasted or ruined (I think I figured around $150 in hardware and a day of my own time to pull my heads) over a $40 set of bolts.

And yes, replace the PCV. You can get a new on at the parts store for $2.

adsm08 · Mar 15, 2015

OK, I just ran out to the garage and checked my tool box on a hunch. I have a set of 2.9/4.0 head bolts, new in box that I got in a rebuild kit two years ago. I already had a set of OEM bolts, but it was cheaper to buy the kit with bolts than to buy all the gaskets and bearings and such individually.

$5 for shipping and you can have them. Fel-Pro part number ES72794.

bert0427 · Mar 15, 2015

You were right I didn't understand that about the bolts. I heard other people talk about it but that's about it. And thanks for your help man I am going to go to the auto parts store and get some here by tomorrow but thanks for your offer on your bolts.

adsm08 · Mar 15, 2015

Yeah, it's a weird thing that is encountered in few other places, so it isn't well understood.

And even in most other places that TTY bolts are used you can get away with re-using them in a pinch.

With head bolts one of two things happens, either the bolts don't stay tight and begin to back out in a few thousand miles, or the heads break off when torquing them down.

ranger_redneck · Mar 16, 2015

i am also replacing the heads on my 87, and i agree replace the head bolts or dont do it at all..

i dont know about you but i would rather do something once rather than twice..

adsm ill take those headbolts for $5 lol

2.9l heads instalation inprogress

bert0427

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