97 Ranger Brake Light and ABS Light On

codes are listed here and all about how it was meant to work.
https://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes_rwal.htm

benm697 said:

There is a lot of confusion on the internet about what Rangers have that port, and if they do where it is. I have searched for the port underneath the pedals and I could not find it. I will check again today just in case. I will also try that fuse method when I get the chance.

So yeah, I am doing every I can without having the codes. Its not like I'm avoiding getting the codes. I simply cannot find the diagnostic port.

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Were you able to find a port/ get any codes? Just curious how this is going.

Between my brother and myself, we have had a 93, 94, 95 (96 model year) and a 97 Ranger and its crazy the little details they changed and things they moved or did away with, etc between the years. Let us know how you make out

Hi Everyone, sorry about the delay. It has been a busy week. I finally got around to pulling the codes (heres a video of it). Im counting four flashes. So that means "Grounded or closed RABS or RWAL valve switch". What does this mean? Is this a common issue? A quick google search isnt showing many results related to Rangers. Thank you everyone!

Usually a code 4, from my research, means that the valve assembly is bad but to be sure there are more tests to be performed to make sure the control module and wiring is good to the valve. I too have the code 4 in my truck this is why I researched it.

Just as an FYI I have so far found that A1 Cardone has the cheapest valve @ $107 + 50 core return.

Bgunner said:

Usually a code 4, from my research, means that the valve assembly is bad but to be sure there are more tests to be performed to make sure the control module and wiring is good to the valve. I too have the code 4 in my truck this is why I researched it.

Just as an FYI I have so far found that A1 Cardone has the cheapest valve @ $107 + 50 core return.

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Oh no. Thats the last thing I want to do. Would you happen to know of a thread or something with the details about the other tests I can do to make sure the control module and wiring is not the problem? I'd like to make absolute sure that the valve is not broken.

you still don't believe do you? code 4 is a bad valve, either replace it or bypass your choiceno one's telling you what to do but we all know what needs to be done, LOL good luck

I gave you information and other answers if you just scroll back and read you'll see them.

benm697 said:

Oh no. Thats the last thing I want to do. Would you happen to know of a thread or something with the details about the other tests I can do to make sure the control module and wiring is not the problem? I'd like to make absolute sure that the valve is not broken.

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To check the wiring you would back probe the proper wires at the connector at the valve and the Rabs control module to check for continuity and the proper resistance. While doing so also move the wiring harness while watching the multi meter looking for a fluctuation in the readings indicating a break in the wire. You may see some slight fluctuation but if a break has occurred there will be a large fluctuation or the reading will be lost.

If the Rabs control module goes it can throw a code 1 or other codes as well. I have not found the proper test procedure in my research for the Rabs control module but with other testing I did find the valve as being bad on my truck.

Have a watch of this video as it give wiring diagrams and some explanations of some things that will help with your diagnosis process. I just brought it up on my phone and paused it where I needed the info for testing while working on my truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99NbqEAXDdg

Follow Bgunner's advice and be sure you don't have a wiring problem, but I wouldn't be surprised if the valve is in fact bad. That would be very easy to replace, shouldn't be super hard to bleed. My brother used to have an Airbag Code 41 which normally means resistance in circuit wire, open circuit, or crash sensor, turned out the computer was actually junk... so definitely worth ruling out that you don't have a wiring problem first, but replacing the valve (ABS hydraulic unit) would be pretty straightforward. +1 on CARDONE unit, cheapest I've seen

If your truck is OBD2 (I don't remember what year you said it is) I believe some very advanced scanners can perform a bleed procedure for you on the ABS system (it would just pump the valve), pre OBD2 requires an OBS ford tool (very expensive, OR:

Replace valve, slam brakes repeatedly on gravel or dirt road, should cause ABS to try to engage and use the ABS hydraulic unit valves to pump air out of ABS unit for you, then you need to bring truck home and re bleed all four corners (but really rear) as normal, OR:

I don't see why you couldn't buy a spare electrical connector for the RABS unit on your frame rail, identify power and ground, energize connector with a spare 12v battery, should pump the ABS unit for you right there in driveway or garage, bleed at wheels, repeat as necessary.

So, good news. I noticed i was starting to leak brake fluid and I found that one of the lines leading to the valve had rusted a pin size hole in it. Once I replaced the line and the such the light went off! I'm not sure if that is just a coincidence, or not, but the situation has been resolved for now.

benm697 said:

So, good news. I noticed i was starting to leak brake fluid and I found that one of the lines leading to the valve had rusted a pin size hole in it. Once I replaced the line and the such the light went off! I'm not sure if that is just a coincidence, or not, but the situation has been resolved for now.

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Excellent! Doubt it was a coincidence. The idiot light can be set off by low brake fluid in the master, and I am not 100% sure of this, but I believe low pressure of the brake fluid can do it as well. When one of my RABS valves started to leak, it didn't look like I was losing any fluid in the master, or not enough to be below the sensor on the master, and after I bypassed the RABS valve and thus fixed the leak (left the electrical connector still plugged to RABS valve), no more idiot light

Automatic self-repair premiums?

cstarbard said:

Excellent! Doubt it was a coincidence. The idiot light can be set off by low brake fluid in the master, and I am not 100% sure of this, but I believe low pressure of the brake fluid can do it as well. When one of my RABS valves started to leak, it didn't look like I was losing any fluid in the master, or not enough to be below the sensor on the master, and after I bypassed the RABS valve and thus fixed the leak (left the electrical connector still plugged to RABS valve), no more idiot light

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