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A4LD OD solenoid?


Shran

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I have an '88 Ranger 4x4 with the 2.9 and A4LD.

I have had no overdrive gear in about the last 5,000 miles - that is, when I shift into OD, it either stays in 3rd (about 3500 RPM at 65 MPH) or it drops down to about 1,200 RPM when you let off the gas.

Now I have heard that the A4LD's have a solenoid that controls when to shift into OD, and if it craps out, you suddenly don't have that gear. The guy at the tranny shop told me that this is not true until the last few production years for that transmission. He said that my OD band is probably hosed.

So I'm curious as to whether what he said is true or not. It seems kinda unlikely (to me anyway.) The truck's only got 85k on it and it has NEVER been beaten on, does not make any noises or slip in any other gears, and had the tranny flushed and filter replaced recently (last 10,000 or so.) I lost OD really quickly too, like it worked one night, driving home from work, and didn't the next morning on the way back to work.

Any insight?
 


mjonesjr

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this would be interesting to know
 

TwoWhels

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A 1988 A4LD's have a overdrive and lockup torque converter solenoid.
Only had a lockup torque converter solenoid until 1987 1/2 ... about

You can tell for sure by looking at the connector going into the transmission.
2 wire: only lockup torque converter solenoid
3 wire: has both overdrive and lockup torque converter solenoid
 

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Yep 2 solenoids 1 for lockup and1 for 4th gear. You have to pull the valve body to replace the 4th gear and lockup solenoid. The A4LD,s have been known to break the OD band too. SO it could be 1 of 3 problems bad solenoid, computer not commanding 4th gear or broken band.
 

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I have an '88 Ranger 4x4 with the 2.9 and A4LD.

I have had no overdrive gear in about the last 5,000 miles - that is, when I shift into OD, it either stays in 3rd (about 3500 RPM at 65 MPH) or it drops down to about 1,200 RPM when you let off the gas.

Now I have heard that the A4LD's have a solenoid that controls when to shift into OD, and if it craps out, you suddenly don't have that gear. The guy at the tranny shop told me that this is not true until the last few production years for that transmission. He said that my OD band is probably hosed.

So I'm curious as to whether what he said is true or not. It seems kinda unlikely (to me anyway.) The truck's only got 85k on it and it has NEVER been beaten on, does not make any noises or slip in any other gears, and had the tranny flushed and filter replaced recently (last 10,000 or so.) I lost OD really quickly too, like it worked one night, driving home from work, and didn't the next morning on the way back to work.

Any insight?
Did you ever get this sorted? I seem to be having the same problem, plus it won't even go into third gear now, i have to manually shift 1>2. It was working perfectly the night i replaced the modulator valve and got up the next day to find i had no drive/overdrive.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

Shran

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Wow, old thread :icon_twisted:

Nope, never fixed it. That truck was a piece of crap and I sold it in 2009. I sent a good spare A4LD along with it to the new owner.
 

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Old thread, same problem....

I ran across this thread while doing a little research on how to replace my lock up solenoid on my 90 A4LD. By all indications mine has shorted out causing the EEC fuse to blow (30 amp under the hood). The solenoid was $26 at my local parts store. I'm not selling the truck because I bought it new in 1990, so it definitely is getting fixed. I plan to be buried in the damn thing!
 
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They aren't bad to change, I've never done one specific solenoid like that, so I don't know exactly which one it is but you just drop the pan and unplug the solenoid, then you remove the retaining clip and install your new one. We always change them all out when we do them and I'm not a tranny builDer so I'm not sure which solenoid it is. I haven't done that exact transmission but they are all similar in that the solenoids are all on the valve body and can be changed in the vehicle, I know some require removing the valve body. Any tranny shop can fix it for a reasonable price, probably not more than $200 depending on the price of the part, plus it comes with a free tranny service since the fluid has to be drained anyway. You might check you tube or other forums for a step by step on how it's done, like I said it's not incredibly hard, I did a complete electronics swap on a Cherokee in about an hour last week, that was with a lift, but I used hand tools and had to pull the valve body out, I would say it can be done on a day off with time left over. Others more familiar with your specific tranny should be along with more exact knowledge, I mostly remove and install at the shop I work at, though I do occasionally swap out easy access parts including solenoids I'm good enough to do it myself but not good enough to give instructions and trust that I'm not giving bad info without standing there looking at it myself. Automatics are rediculously complex and one piece of bad info can cost you a 2,000 dollar rebuild.
 

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Thanks for the reply! I'm just trying to figure out when I want to get covered in ATF, haha...Times like this I REALLY miss my shop and lift!
 

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Hey all,
Just wanted to let you all know that I got the Torque Converter solenoid changed. Took about 2 hours. The forward most one with the black end piece is the one to change. If I had to do it again, I would go ahead and replace both the lock up solenoid and the 3-4 shift solenoid together. Don't know why I didn't think about it until I was neck deep in ATF. Anyway, it fixed the problem. I now have overdrive and am no longer blowing the 30 amp EEC Maxi fuse.
Replacement was straight forward. I paid attention to the bolt placement on the valve body, as there are a few different lengths. Once the valve body is lowered, you have to carefully remove the separator plate to change the solenoid. 3 bolts on mine, Torx T30. swapping out the new part was simple. Bolt it back together keeping bolt placement in mind and add a new filter. My 2wd trans took almost 7 quarts of ATF. put your new gasket on the pan after cleaning up the rail. I prefer to use Hi-Tac and glue the gasket to the pan. No RTV needed. hope this helps someone.....:D
 

Shran

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A little tip to avoid ATF showers is to use a concrete mixing tub to drain fluid into - readily available at your hardware store, they are about 2' x 3' and 8" deep. I usually also install a drain plug into the pan while I have it off.
 

Doberman1

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Concrete mixing tub sounds like a great idea! I'll have to pick one up! I'm still so used to just putting my vehicles on the lift (I no longer own) and rolling my drain under the vehicle. I forgot how I used to do it all those years ago!
 

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