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dual transfercase


bigpotato555

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hey i where looking to make a dual transfer case with a BW1350 and BW1354 i look in the tech library but the info there is limited... i wonder if anyone as done one and if they have detail pics..thx
 


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bigpotato555

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i know the 350$ kit is pretty cheap but going to university is not...lol is there a do it yourself way costing next to nothing?thx again
 
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4x4junkie

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'fraid not...

The cheapest way to do it is probably going to be what's described here

Expect to spend probably around $100-150 getting a shaft done, and another $100-150 on another case.
 

bigpotato555

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i like this way i already have a tcase and a friend of mine have a machine shop for the shaft thx a lot dude
 

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Does anyone have any experience with the "stubler"?

It looks all bolt on, pretty basic set up.

Can anyone explain how it works without affecting 2wd for the street?
I'm having a hard time getting my mind around it.


(sorry if I am jacking the thread!)
 

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It works just like a regular transfer case, you shift it in and out of low... Therefore it doesnt affect street use.
 

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does it have to be a 1354?i have a manual and 2 electric 1350 tcases. and one of the 1350 cases has the bolt on yoke like the 1354. it is in an 88 stx high rider
 

arrabil

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The cheapest way to do it is probably going to be what's described here
Why did Jim add a note saying not to shift the Toddler into low while keeping the TC in high? The Stubler instructions specifically mention this as a benefit of a dual case setup and I have a place where it would be useful to me.
 

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If the Stubler mentions that (I didn't look it over real well), then that's just asking for breakage.

If the doubler is in LO with the rear case in HI, all the torque multiplication from the 1st gear reduction will be on the coupler shaft. At a mere 1" spline diameter, it is not up to handling that much torque.
There would NO benefit from this either, the doubler and rear case have the same ratio, so best just put the rear case in low first.


Any combination of 1350 and 1354 cases can be used, although its FAR easier to find a manual 1350 case than a 1354 to use as the doubler box (plus, cutting apart a rare 1354 manual case is likely to make you some enemies too lol)
 
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arrabil

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If the Stubler mentions that (I didn't look it over real well), then that's just asking for breakage.
My fault, I got my -lers confused as I was typing. Its mentioned in the Toddler writeup by Evan under Benefits, then mentioned at the end as a Warning by Jim.

If the doubler is in LO with the rear case in HI, all the torque multiplication from the 1st gear reduction will be on the coupler shaft. At a mere 1" spline diameter, it is not up to handling that much torque.
Can you elaborate as to why this isn't the case regardless? Once you put the doubler part in low, all the engine torque goes through the coupler shaft no matter what, no?

There would NO benefit from this either, the doubler and rear case have the same ratio, so best just put the rear case in low first.
Feel free to give me driving pointers but here is where I would use it... In the mudhole near me there is a really tight turnaround where you have to go over some really rough terrain that isn't covered in mud and hence has a LOT of grip. I HAVE to take it out of 4wd if I don't want to bind the front axle during the turn. Then I HAVE to lean on the brakes hard because you can't go over it at anything but a crawl. If I had 2wd-lo, I wouldn't bind the front end and I wouldn't lean on the brakes.

Allan also has a transfer case in his 2wd truck and he explained to me that 2wd-lo helps in tight maneuvering while towing.
 

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