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2003 Escape RPM issue


Twister

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I have a 2003 FWD 2.0 5 speed E with 180,000 miles on it. The other day it started to have weird problem with the engines RPMs. If i put it in 1st or 2nd and let off the gas, the rpms will slowly raise up to around 4k. When driving and i push in the clutch to shift the rpms will raise 200-500, then goes back down when i let off the clutch. Also, if I am up to speed and push the clutch in and shift to neutral and let off the clutch, it will spike again to 3-4k and slowly go down. I cleaned the throttle body about 1k miles ago with crc throttle body cleaner, and i replaced the foil covered vacuum hose that runs along the back of the engine a couple thousand miles ago with a dealer one. It seems to be a bit worse when it is a little colder out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

It has now thrown a code, P0507, which points to the too high of voltage to IAC or too high of rpm. I took off the IAC and cleaned it and reinstalled it with a new Ford gasket, but it did not help.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 


RonD

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The only way to increase engine RPMs is by adding more air.
Engine RPMs are actually being "held back" by the lack of air, which is why a vacuum builds up in the intake manifold, and why a vacuum leak increases RPMs.
Adding more fuel can't increase RPMs, it would just flood the engine.

You are on the right track with the IAC Valve.
After engine is warmed up and idling, unplug the IAC valve wire, it will close and engine RPMs should drop to 500 or engine may stall, either is good it means no vacuum leaks.
If RPMs stay 700 or higher then there is a leak.

Also check that throttle plate and it's return spring are tight.
If you have Cruise control unhook that cable for a few days to see if symptom goes away.

And it could be the computer is opening the IAC Valve for some reason

On 2003 manual trans vehicle the computer should hold RPMs while shifting, for a few seconds only, and RPMs should stay above 1,000 with clutch in until speedometer shows under 5MPH, these things are to lower emissions.

But increasing RPMs wouldn't be part of that, so could be a computer issue and it reads like it is triggered by Clutch switch
 

Twister

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The only way to increase engine RPMs is by adding more air.
Engine RPMs are actually being "held back" by the lack of air, which is why a vacuum builds up in the intake manifold, and why a vacuum leak increases RPMs.
Adding more fuel can't increase RPMs, it would just flood the engine.

You are on the right track with the IAC Valve.
After engine is warmed up and idling, unplug the IAC valve wire, it will close and engine RPMs should drop to 500 or engine may stall, either is good it means no vacuum leaks.
If RPMs stay 700 or higher then there is a leak.

Also check that throttle plate and it's return spring are tight.
If you have Cruise control unhook that cable for a few days to see if symptom goes away.

And it could be the computer is opening the IAC Valve for some reason

On 2003 manual trans vehicle the computer should hold RPMs while shifting, for a few seconds only, and RPMs should stay above 1,000 with clutch in until speedometer shows under 5MPH, these things are to lower emissions.

But increasing RPMs wouldn't be part of that, so could be a computer issue and it reads like it is triggered by Clutch switch
Thanks for the response, your one post was more helpful than my thread on an escape forum. Getting to the IAC on the escape is a pain, with it being on the engine side of the intakr , and the inly opening being right where the egr valve is. But with it idling in nuetral it sits at 1k, with it unplugged it dropa down to whag looks like 500, when you plug it back in it shoot back up to 1k.

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RonD

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The RPM reads high for for a 4cyl with manual trans, they are set higher than 6 or 8 cyl engines because of vibrations at lower RPMs, but I would expect 750-800.

No vacuum leaks if idle dropped down that low with IAC unplugged which is good.

After you cleaned the IAC valve, or change anything really, you should unhook battery for 10 minutes or so.
Computer will then "relearn" IAC Valve an TPS settings over the next few drive cycles, so idle may wander a bit after this until computer "learns".

Check mechanics of throttle plate.

P0507 code means computer is seeing a higher RPM than it expects, not higher voltage.
Which tends to point to a non-computer issue, computer "knows" what RPM it wants, and when it sets the IAC for that RPM the engine still has higher RPM.
 

Twister

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The RPM reads high for for a 4cyl with manual trans, they are set higher than 6 or 8 cyl engines because of vibrations at lower RPMs, but I would expect 750-800.

No vacuum leaks if idle dropped down that low with IAC unplugged which is good.

After you cleaned the IAC valve, or change anything really, you should unhook battery for 10 minutes or so.
Computer will then "relearn" IAC Valve an TPS settings over the next few drive cycles, so idle may wander a bit after this until computer "learns".

Check mechanics of throttle plate.

P0507 code means computer is seeing a higher RPM than it expects, not higher voltage.
Which tends to point to a non-computer issue, computer "knows" what RPM it wants, and when it sets the IAC for that RPM the engine still has higher RPM.
Well i diconnected the battery, it cleared the code, but it is the same if not worse. What do i look for on the throttle body? I cleaned it a month or so ago and it was quite dirty. I hope it is not the throttle body because it seems like a dealer part that costs way to much.

Thanks
 

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Is the throttle plate loose or its rod?
 

Twister

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I do not believe so. I will take another look.

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Twister

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Just got some time today to look at it. I took the throttle body off and it aeems tight all the way around. The spring is string ans firm, plate looks good and there doesnt seem to be any binding or rough spots. Thats with it unhooked from the throttle cable. If i hook the throttle cable back up its a different story. It is a bit hard to move, and it doesnt not allow the throttle body to fully return to its resting position. You have to give it a slight push to get it to seat fully. Could the throttle cable be bad?

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Twister

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Picked up a new throttle cable from ford the other day, which appeared to be a redesigned u it compared to the factory one. Put it on and the high rom issue has been resolved, thank god. But now, sometimes when thrown into nuetral the rpms will dip down really lowe then come back up, seems weird. Also, is there anyway to stiffen the has pedal, with the old cable it was fairly firm, now it is feather light?

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A spring is used for throttle plate return, that's gas pedal resistance, you could add one to pedal or replace throttle linkage spring with stronger one.
Weak throttle linkage spring was probably why they "redesigned" the cable for less resistance, slides easier, so throttle wouldn't stick partly open or be pulled open by air flow.

Drop in RPM would mean IAC Valve is closed and computer is not reacting fast enough to Clutch switch reactivating it, opening it.
Are you using the clutch or just pushing gear shift out of gear into Neutral?

Check and see if that makes a difference
 
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Twister

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A spring is used for throttle plate return, that's gas pedal resistance, you could add one to pedal or replace throttle linkage spring with stronger one.
Weak throttle linkage spring was probably why they "redesigned" the cable for less resistance, slides easier, so throttle wouldn't stick partly open or be pulled open by air flow.

Drop in RPM would mean IAC Valve is closed and computer is not reacting fast enough to Clutch switch reactivating it, opening it.
Are you using the clutch or just pushing gear shift out of gear into Neutral?

Check and see if that makes a difference
When coming to a stop, ill throw it into nuetral and use my brakes to slow down. Thats when it does it.

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RonD

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"throw it into Neutral" is what I was asking about, are you using the clutch pedal or not?

Manual transmission doesn't have a position sensor.
When you push in the clutch pedal, clutch switch closes and the computer then sees that it needs to activate IAC valve.

So try pushing in the clutch pedal first, then select Neutral and see if it still does it, if it still drops to low RPMs then might be an issue, if it doesn't then I would say it is just normal, a software delay in computer.
 
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Twister

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"throw it into Neutral" is what I was asking about, are you using the clutch pedal or not?

Manual transmission doesn't have a position sensor.
When you push in the clutch pedal the computer then sees that it needs to activate IAC valve.

So try pushing in the clutch pedal first, then select Neutral and see if it still does it.
Ahh gotcha, didnt read it like that. I always use the clutch, dont wanna put unneeded wear on the the clutch components. I do, clutch in, shift to nuetral, clutch out, then brake.

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RonD

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Then there is a mechanical problem, most likely with IAC valve.
Check the air tube from filter to intake for cracks, leaks
 

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