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97 Mountaineer rear Disc on to 03 FX4 level II


WtrskiAdic

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So I bought a 1997 5.0 Mountaineer to do a 5.0 swap well that's been put on hold for a while for various reason but right now I'm rebuilding the rear Differential of my Level II so I'm wondering what all I need to put the disc from the Mountaineer on My Level II
 


SenorNoob

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In theory, it should just bolt together, using everything brake related from the Mountaineer. (Except maybe brake lines. Might need to practice your flaring skills.)

I'd go for narrowing the Ranger steel line enough to use 2 of the short Mountaineer rubber hoses...
 

WtrskiAdic

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Well I did the swap had to use the explorer axle shafts that are half inch longer than the ranger shafts and the shim the mounting flange out a quarter inch used the Explorer master cylinder left the ranger brake line configuration and used the flex line for the right side and got another RH flex line for the left side. I have Good pedal when the engine is off but when it's running the pedal goes to the floor do I need to swap the proportioning valve
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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Two thoughts, may need bleeding or maybe master cylinder too big, slave too small

Sent from my XT1032
 

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I think a too large master with too small slaves would cause a high pedal. A small master and large slaves would cause the brakes to go to the floor.

I suspect you need to bleed the system very well.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I think a too large master with too small slaves would cause a high pedal. A small master and large slaves would cause the brakes to go to the floor.

I suspect you need to bleed the system very well.
Both true and what I meant in my head. :icon_idea:
 

stmitch

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For what it's worth, I run 13inch (front) and 11.65inch (rear) Mustang cobra discs on my truck with the stock Ranger booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve. No problems at all in the 4 or 5 years they've been on, and they've seen some aggressive use. If you can't get it figured out, you might try switching back to the Ranger master cylinder/stuff if it's an option. It's much more robust than you might think.
 

WtrskiAdic

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Well I ended up putting the drums back on and running new hard brake line from the T block to the wheel cylinders and i now have great brake pedal. My guess is that the proportioning valve in the abs module wasn't right for the disc brake calipers. Yes i made completely sure i didn't have any air in the system with the disc brakes on it but the pedal would still fade three quarters of the way to the floor before rear brakes would stop.
 

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