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'92 Explorer 4.0L NO SPARK


Mylesofsmyles

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I'm at the beginning of my learning curve again, with a new ford...

It's a '92 4.0L Explorer...This is a distributor less EDIS ignition

NO SPARK...

swapped for a known good CPS...no luck
swpped for a known EDIS ICM...no luck

What should I do next?
 


RonD

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There are CPS(cam position sensors) and CKP(crank position) sensors, those are my names for them, just so I can talk about them without confusing myself, lol.

I don't think the '92 4.0l had a CPS, but it could have, it would be in the never used "distributor hole" at the back of the block top side.
CPS isn't used for basic spark timing.

Ford EDIS system is self contained spark system, it has 3 parts:
CKP(crank position) sensor
EDIS-6 module(for V6)
Coil pack

CKP sensor wires run to EDIS module
Coil pack wires run to EDIS module

EDIS module and Coil are both powered by the ECU(EEC) relay found in the Power box in engine bay.
Just check coil for 12v with key on
Coil has 4 wires, Red one is the 12v

EDIS module pins are here: http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html
Toward the bottom

VRS(variable reluctance sensor) = CKP sensor

The way it works is that the CKP sensor will generate an AC Voltage as the "teeth" on the crank wheel spin passed it, there is a missing tooth or wider tooth on the wheel that denotes #1 TDC.
This pulse tells EDIS module to start the spark, so it all starts with the CKP sensor pulse, no pulse = no spark.

If you hook up a volt meter to the CKP sensor and crank engine you should see about .5 to 1v AC
i.e. if you unhook the EDIS wires from the module and test the VRS+ and VRS- wires with volt meter you should see the AC voltage while engine is turning over, this would test the sensor and wires to sensor

EDIS module sees the pulse and starts timing for spark, #1 TDC being the starting point.
The EDIS module passes this #1 TDC info to computer along with RPMs(from CKP sensor)
Computer uses that info to time the fuel injectors, and starts them about the same time as the spark.
If you crank the engine and then pull a spark plug out and it is wet, then CKP sensor and EDIS timing signal is getting to the computer.
If spark plug is dry then either gas tank is empty, lol, or computer is not getting a timing signal from EDIS module.

Google: How to test ignition coil pack the easy way

There is a short video on how to test for a bad coil, although I wouldn't think all 3 coils in your coil pack could fail at the same time.
So either coil doesn't have 12volts or EDIS module isn't grounding it(firing it)
 
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Mylesofsmyles

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Thanks...that's a great write-up...

I'll take a closer look.

Smells of gas after cranking, so I think fuel system is doing it's thing.
 

Mylesofsmyles

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Just wondering....

On my '85 Ranger, the TFI module needs 12v while cranking. The exciter wire to the starter splices with a lead to the TFI module on my distributor.

Currently, with this 4.0L, I have a dead starter relay...so were jumping it there...Since there isn't 12v at the exciter wire from ignition switch, do you think I'm not getting power to the ignition system while cranking?
 

Mylesofsmyles

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^ scratch that idea...just experimented with another running 4.0L we have here...put key in run and jumped the starter relay...my theory didn't work...it'll still start.
 

RonD

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Fords have a Clutch switch on manuals and an NSS(neutral safety switch) on automatics.

These have to be "closed" for the 12volts to go from ignition switch to starter relay

Clutch switch is clamped onto the master cylinder push rod, clutch pedal has to be push down to the floor to "close" this switch, while not common they can pop off, they are held on the rod by a slide clip.

NSS is on the transmission just above shift linkage, the column shifter on Ford trucks gets loose so when shifted into Park trans does go into Park but doesn't push up enough on NSS so you get a no crank, try Neutral to see if that's the problem.
 
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AllanD

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Fords have a Clutch switch on manuals and an NSS(neutral safety switch) on automatics.

These have to be "closed" for the 12volts to go from ignition switch to starter relay

Clutch switch is clamped onto the master cylinder push rod, clutch pedal has to be push down to the floor to "close" this switch, while not
NSS is on the transmission just above shift linkage, the column shifter on Ford trucks gets loose so when shifted into Park trans does go into Park but doesn't push up enough on NSS so you get a no crank, try Neutral to see if that's the problem.
The NSS switch on manual transmission RBVs (and some other fords) has NOTHING what-so-ever to do with cranking, starting or the ignition system

The NSS switch is all about idle strategy with the engine NOT under load

There is also a contact in the clutch multifunction switch that performs a parallel function, but in any case 1993 was the last year the NSS switch was actually installed on any RBV manual trans, on 1994's they didn't even drill out the hole where the switch would be mounted to the transmission

The worst the switch being disconnected will do is cause your engine to stall when rolling up to a traffic light, this gets deeper into idle strategy, because when engine braking above a certain RPM (Different for each engine) the fuel injectors are turned OFF To both reduce emissions and increase engine braking effectiveness.

AD
 
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