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You should post the definitions with the codes so we don't have to look each one up and you already have, I assume
211- Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing
224-Failure in ignition coil primary circuit
332- EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly
335- EGR feedback signal is/was out of range
1994 was the last year that used separate ICM(ignition control module), 1995 and up used a different computer(OBD2, EEC-V) with ICM built into the computer
ICM is on the front side of lower intake manifold, it controls the spark by getting timing pulse directly from Crank Position(CKP) Sensor
ICMs did have wiring and internal failures, they can be tested at most auto parts stores
Check wiring on connectors they can become frayed.
PIP - profile ignition pickup
This is the pulse signal the ICM gets from the Crank Position Sensor and sends to the computer so it can time the fuel injectors
Tach signal also comes from ICM
Crank sensor wires run from ICM and into/behind Timing Belt cover to the Sensor located just above crankshaft.
No crank pulse would cause a no start, so this is most likely a wiring issue, could be ICM is failing as well but checking wires is FREE
And bad wires could also cause 224 code, each coil pack has 3 wires connected to ICM
(heads up, 2.3l 8 spark plug setup only uses Exhaust side coil/spark plugs when engine is cranking for start up, intake coil/spark plugs start working when RPMs are above 400)
EGR system has 3 parts plus computer
1. EGR Valve., it is opened and closed using engine Vacuum
You can put on a longer vacuum hose and then start the engine
As engine idles suck on that hose and EGR Valve should open and engine should start to run rough, and will stall if EGR Valve remains open
Test EGR Valve first, if engine idle doesn't change then remove EGR Valve and metal tube, clean or replace as needed.
2. EGR solenoid, it has 2 wires and 2 vacuum hoses, one vacuum hose goes to EGR Valve the other to intake manifold or Vacuum Reservoir
Check that each hose is "air tight", no leaks
The 2 wires are for the computer to control when EGR Valve gets vacuum, 1 wire will have 12volts when key is on, the other wire goes to the computer
The computer Pulses the Ground on that wire, this causes the EGR Solenoid to open a little or a lot, so computer can control the amount of exhaust gases flowing back into the engine.
You can apply 12v and Ground to the 2 contacts, there is no polarity, and solenoid should "click" open, then "click" closed when power is cut.
3. DPFE sensor, Pressure Feedback Sensor, this has 2 Exhaust Hoses attached and 3 wires
The 2 exhaust hoses are placed at different places on the EGR Valve's exhaust tube, one is closer to EGR Valve
As EGR Valve is opened by the computer, via EGR solenoid, the closer hose will have a higher pressure drop, so lower pressure than the hose that is farther away
The Pressure Difference is how the computer measures the exhaust gas that is flowing into the engine.
Sensor hoses can get clogged up so check them, there is an order so only remove one at a time or mark them
Check wiring connectors, always, for corrosion
Heads up: sensors or parts are often replaced when the only problem was dirty connector, new sensor or part fixes the problem because connector was removed and reconnected, which cleaned the contacts, so check wires first
Your two codes
332- EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently
335- EGR feedback signal is/was out of range
Could mean a few things because both mean there was no pressure change shown when computer activated the EGR Solenoid:
EGR Valve is not working
EGR Solenoid is not working
And yes DPFE sensor is not working
Could even mean computer or its wiring for EGR system is not working