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Electric Fan Install


Rearanger

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So I'm the guy who couldn't see the use in replacing the clutch fan - until now.

I did this because I could not get the engine to heat up to 195* temp and the long time (especially in winter) to get to temp after starting. I've had a couple of stats in but no change. I have both an aftermarket digital engine temp gauge and I can monitor the ECT sensor on my ScanGauge - the ECT runs about 5* hotter, probably because of location.

The fan I chose is a TYC 621860 (assembly) which is a direct replacement for a 2008 - 2010 Chrysler Town & Country 3.3L V6. Someone on this forum had used the same fan. I wanted something that would fit inside my factory shroud and this fan was perfect. You'll need to cut most of the TYCs shroud away to get only the center part and the fan. You can see by the picture how well it fits. No modification the the factory Ford shroud is necessary.

I used some speed nuts (#8 Wide - ACP) and 8x5/8 panel screws (SMS Black), which can be sourced at Lowes, and custom pieces of galvanized sheet to mount.

The controller is a Flex-a-Lite part # 91163 (HERE) variable speed with 60% soft start and 60% AC. I used a lower rad hose adapter for the 1/4 NPT temp sensor. I can adjust the turn on temp with the small adjusting screw on the controller. Flex-a-Lite provides all the necessary wire and connectors, but the connectors are very cheap. I replaced with quality shrink connectors and substituted the controller connectors with lower profile Flag style. Use a professional crimper. Mounting the controller on top of the fan shroud is perfect for heat and access.

I chose to install the temp sensor in the lower rad hose because that's where my Camry's factory fan temp switch is. The Camry's has always worked well and the fans only come on when idling stopped. Flex-a-Lite recommends upper rad hose or engine mount, but then you're sensing the stat set temp which I think will trip the fan more. I can monitor the operation with the engine temp gauges.

I was able to use an "Add-a-Circuit fuse adapter in the O2 heater circuit fuse in the under hood fuse box. Some modification of the box cover is necessary to close the cover due to the height of the Add-a-Circuit adapter. The fan fuse holder was mounted to the ABS bracket with a plate and a couple of metal screws.

One common minor fault of the soft start control is the fan motor will growl momentarily on start up, but the sound is almost imperceptible when standing next to the engine. This growling seems to be only with the single large fans, the doubles don't seem to do it - maybe because of fan mass.

Engine is much quieter - don't care about any power or mileage gain, but I imagine little if any. I can keep track of mileage as I have several years of average calculations in a spread sheet.

Total cost was $75 for fan assembly and $150 for the controller. Lower rad hose adapter was about $15. Did this in less than a weekend.

 
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RonD

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Good work :icon_thumby:

My Camry also used lower rad hose thermostat, 180deg, and e-fan sensor in lower rad
You usually get about 10-20deg cooling from radiator, putting upper temp at 190-200deg which is where you want it
 
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ericbphoto

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Nice. I may use this info to fine-tune my installation.
 

Rearanger

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Ran the truck for first time today with the new fan. Did not get the results I wanted on engine temp. From the ECT gauge I seem to be getting about +6* running temp with 63* ambient, but the heat up time from cold did not really improve, although it's hard to measure with all inputs the same. I'm comparing the heat up time with my other two vehicles which are fully warm in about a mile from start up.

At idle the fan turns on at about 192* on ECT gauge and does not need to go above the 60% rpm initial start. Fan stays running about 15 seconds max before shut off, so it's pretty efficient. Should be no problem in summer temps here in NC.

For those wanting to use this fan without soft start the measured starting amps are 45.2 with 18 amps running. The Flex-a-lite kit came with a 40 amp fuse.

The controller also allows a manual on and off, I may install a manual on switch in the spring, but for now I'm happy with the operation - if not the results I wanted.
 

RonD

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Put some foam pipe insulation on the longer heater hoses, they bleed alot of heat in cold weather, and the hoses are always circulating coolant, heat on or off

6ft length runs $2, so not expensive
 

Rearanger

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Put some foam pipe insulation on the longer heater hoses, they bleed alot of heat in cold weather, and the hoses are always circulating coolant, heat on or off
I thought about something like that except to insulate the pipe my digital gauge is screwed into on the front of the engine. It is more exposed to heat transfer than the ECT sensor which is just behind the stat, hence the 5* difference in gauge temps. Gauge temp is not necessarily engine temp. I have a splash pan which helps to reduce airflow on lower rad hose, and upper is about the fan shroud and not in direct air flow either.

Probably more than I need to worry about. My other vehicles don't have pipe insulation and they do fine, but I also don't have digital gauges on them. If I didn't have a digital gauge I'd be none the wiser. Also the volume of coolant in the Ranger is much more than the other vehicles so more capacity to cool in my heavy duty factory rad.

Not loosing any sleep right now.
 

Rearanger

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I though I'd close this thread by sharing my MPG after the fan install.

I have lots of MPG data going back to when I purchased this truck in 03, but for a comparison I only took data from the last two years.

Before fan average MPG was 19.47, after 5 tanks I am now getting 21.12 MPG, a difference of +1.65 MPG (.085). Tanks have been: 21.16, 21.16, 20.65, 21.92, 20.69. Not a stunning increase at less than 10%. Not sure if that could be accurately extrapolated to HP, but it's not much.

My driving habits and routes have been the same on paved country roads with few lights or stop signs and speeds mostly around 40-60.

I'm thinking the claims of 10HP increase are exaggerated.
 
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RonD

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If original was 19.47MPG and new MPG is 21.12 then that's an 8.47% increase

Not bad at all, pay for itself in no time at all.

Thanks for the update

Yes, HP claims about this are often generic without mentioning increase was 5-10HP on a 350HP V8 :)
So quite a bit less on lower HP engines, but not 0
 
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Rearanger

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At what I paid today, $2.22 per gallon, it would take 64 tanks of gas to re-coup the expense.
 

RonD

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At what I paid today, $2.22 per gallon, it would take 64 tanks of gas to re-coup the expense.
About 23,000 miles, so about 2 years :) , or sooner if gas prices go up

Then its money in your pocket :icon_thumby:

Joking, but it was a good change
 
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ericbphoto

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That's good info to know.

My mpg has gone down this year. That is most likely due to adding big heavy tires/wheels and lifting the truck 6" - basicly changing the aerodynamics. So, if my electric fan recouped something positive, that's good news. I'll trust your numbers since I made too many changes to figure out individual changes.
 

cbxer55

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Ran the truck for first time today with the new fan. Did not get the results I wanted on engine temp. From the ECT gauge I seem to be getting about +6* running temp with 63* ambient, but the heat up time from cold did not really improve, although it's hard to measure with all inputs the same. I'm comparing the heat up time with my other two vehicles which are fully warm in about a mile from start up.
It isn't likely an electric fan would make the warm up time shorter. After all, these are liquid cooled motors and have no cooling fins. Theirs really little affect of air circulation around a liquid cooled motor. And the liquid is between the outer surfaces and the inner surfaces. Airflow through the fan doesn't do anything until that thermostat opens.

The longer warm up time is due to the fact the coolant is a whole lot colder after sitting during the winter. Sparky fan won't fix that. Block heater will. Shoot, here during the summer, the coolant is already near 100 degrees even after sitting for several hours. Start it and go.

Another possibility is one of them new fangled remote starters. Almost everyone where I work has one these days. Except people like me, who hang onto old vehicles forever, or until they decide not to run any longer. Fortunately I only live six miles from my work. A long warm up doesn't bother me, I'm still home drinking booze while everyone else is still driving home. LOL :beer:
 

Rearanger

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It isn't likely an electric fan would make the warm up time shorter. After all, these are liquid cooled motors and have no cooling fins. Theirs really little affect of air circulation around a liquid cooled motor. And the liquid is between the outer surfaces and the inner surfaces. Airflow through the fan doesn't do anything until that thermostat opens.
Engines also cool through conduction of heat through the block surfaces. Air flow around those surfaces will dissipate heat. That's why the engine gets to stat temp faster in warmer weather.

My running temp is higher by about 6 degrees, my warm up temp "seems" faster, but it depends on ambient and is difficult time.

Was it worth it, not sure as I had no laboratory to test in.
 

cbxer55

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I know a lot of guys with Lightning's switch to electric fans. But, I also know a lot who refuse to go that route and prefer keeping the stock clutch fan. I'm in the latter category, prefer keeping it simple. And electric fans are not the KISS method, IMHO. I've had two electric fans quit on me in the past, and it was a PITA when it happened. Not ever going that route again. YMMV.
 

Rearanger

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But, I also know a lot who refuse to go that route and prefer keeping the stock clutch fan. I'm in the latter category, prefer keeping it simple.
I agree, I resisted til now but wanted to get may engine temp up. Changing stats did not solve. A factory setup is going to be more reliable, but aftermarket not as much. I've kept the clutch fan and will carry it with me on long trips since the change over will be simple.
 

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