Home Ford Ranger Forum Builders Guide How To Tech Other Articles Featured Rangers Readers Rangers Classifieds Shirts & Decals

 
Old 02-08-2013, 05:12 PM   #41
2002rangerv6xlt
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 14
Vehicle Year: 2002
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger XLT 3.0L V6
Rep Power: 0
2002rangerv6xlt is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulnola View Post
"Service Life Extension" suggestions thread for the 3.0 (as well as the other engines)

I was going to make up my own list of things to do to my engine to ensure that I have a reliable and dependable truck for the next few years since buying a new truck is not in my future anytime soon (assuming a rebuild is not needed). In the military, aircraft (and other machines) would be overhauled & updated under a SLEP (Service Life Extension Program), allowing to a longer useful lifespan.

My Ranger is turning 125K miles, so I want to:
Replace the chirping camshaft synchroniser & sensor
Replace the serpentine belt
Inspect & replace any rubber hoses under the hood if needed
Inspect & replace cooling system components (water pump, thermostat, coolant, hoses) if needed
Replace plugs & wires
Replace filters (including fuel and auto trans)
Replace trans fluid (power steering too) if needed

This would be like a milestone maintenance list for high mileage engines, if you will.
I'm also a New Orleans expat

My truck is approaching 171,000 mi. I've replaced all of the fluids several times (except for the brake fluid, I'm guilty on that one) and have been running synthetics everywhere. Next weekend, I'll be doing my own little SLEP by doing the timing chain and will be replacing all of my coolant hoses, water pump, maybe harmonic balancer, potentially some other things too. I recently replaced all of my control arms, shocks and sway bar links, too. You may want to check the PCV curved rubber hose near the firewall. It cracked on me, and you need to get the replacement assembly from Ford. I have also replaced the MAF and two upstream O2 sensors. I should probably make a better list and create a separate post for this....

The only things that have really crapped out on me were the alternator (no biggie) and the manual transmission (biggie). I started having syncro noise around 60,000 mi or so and it finally sh*t the bed at about 130,000 mi. I changed the fluid frequently, too.

There is another post of mine that talks about some trouble I had during the lower control arm swap and my work around but I'm not sure if that would belong in the 3.0 forum or not.
__________________
2002 3.0L V6 XLT Manual RWD, synthetic fluids, >170,000mi, K&N intake

Last edited by 2002rangerv6xlt; 02-08-2013 at 05:15 PM. Reason: clarity
2002rangerv6xlt is offline   Reply With Quote
Advertisement - Don't want to see the forum ads? Click HERE to find out how to be a Premium Member.


5% Rock Auto Discount Code: 20B2FF503DCF74 Expires: September 28, 2018
Old 05-04-2013, 09:42 AM   #42
rquaale
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 8
Vehicle Year: 98
Vehicle Make: ford
Vehicle Model: ranger
Rep Power: 0
rquaale is on a distinguished road
Default

dont know if any one else had has this issue but vacuum hose routing would be nice either as a diagram or with pics of how they actually run would be nice
rquaale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2013, 03:46 PM   #43
chiloh30
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 23
Vehicle Year: 1999
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger 4x4 supercab
I use this vehicle for: everything
Rep Power: 0
chiloh30 is on a distinguished road
Default

I dont know if this counts, but I read a lot of this and that about "how do i check my injectors."

And I want to add my two bits, because I see a little of this and a little of that.

To Check Injectors:
1. Get a mechanics stethescope
2. Get a ohms meter
3. get a noid light

A: remove intake manifold
B: use stethascope and listen to injectors while partner is cranking ignition,,(all wires should be disconected because you took off man), so engine will not start just crank.
C: You should be able to here injectors clicking open and shut.
D: Attach noid light to injector plug and have partner crank engine, noid light should flash quickly
E: Use ohm meter to check ohms on injectors by touching contacts on injector should read between 11 and 18 ohms above 18 it is shut and not working.

If you do all this and something still does not work, then your problem is else where, bad plugs, bad wires,,,,,,,,,,
chiloh30 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2014, 06:05 PM   #44
flatlandriver
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 17
Vehicle Year: 1999
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
Rep Power: 0
flatlandriver is on a distinguished road
Default

First post here. Not sure if this is the best place for these comments, but here goes anyway. These are mostly issues with the tech article, "Rebuilding the 3.0".
I am currently 90% of the way through swapping an '03 Taurus donor into a '99 Ranger. I believe the article's comment that head gaskets must be changed when swapping a FWD into a RWD are incorrect.
Here's just a couple of observations from my engine swap.
1) the FWD and RWD waterpumps are identical with the exception of a longer nose for the RWD so that the pulleys all line up for the serpentine belt. The pump will cause coolant to want to flow through the block in the same way with both engines.
2) however, the thermostat on the FWD lower intake manifold is located at the "rear" of the engine, whereas the RWD lower intake has the thermostat at the front.
3) if you have a look at the head gasket pictures from the "Rebuilding" article you will see that the FWD gaskets have coolant slots at both ends. The RWD gaskets have holes at only the front. My conclusion is the reverse of what the article states. I think it would be disastrous to swap a RWD engine into a FWD without changing head gaskets, but a FWD into a RWD application will work. There's already a hole in the head gaskets at the front of the FWD engine that will accommodate the RWD thermostat location and coolant flow.
flatlandriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2016, 06:20 PM   #45
Victorymike18
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 20
Vehicle Year: N/A
Rep Power: 0
Victorymike18 is on a distinguished road
Default

Not sure if it was mentioned, but it would be great to have more info and diagrams of the motor and all the components attached to it. IE: some shots of the motor with arrows to the different parts.

I am new to the Vulcan, and Ford motors in general so I just don't recognize a lot of these ancillary electronic and vacuum components.
Victorymike18 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2017, 06:32 PM   #46
red2003xlt
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 37
Vehicle Year: 2003
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger XLT
Rep Power: 21
red2003xlt is on a distinguished road
Default

Davis Unified Ignition D.U.I. has a Screamin Demons Ignition Coil and Wires.

New to me
http://performancedistributors.com/product/1602/.
__________________
3.0 auto 3.73 pure stock.
Tonneau Cover
red2003xlt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2017, 04:43 PM   #47
JP02XLT
Member
 
JP02XLT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 466
Vehicle Year: 02
Vehicle Make: Ranger
Vehicle Model: XLT
Rep Power: 20
JP02XLT is on a distinguished road
Default

That coil and ignition wires did not play well with a supercharged engine, the stock coil and Belden wires were the ticket

JP02XLT
__________________
BowTie Killer
JP02XLT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks





Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:47 PM.




1999-2018 / 959 Media LLC / All Rights Reserved