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#21 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 397
Vehicle Year: 1994
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger xlt
Rep Power: 8 ![]() |
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Would a 1994 have it or is it basically the distributor?
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#22 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Pinellas County, Florida
Posts: 57
Vehicle Year: 94
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Explorer
I use this vehicle for: whatever
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
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I have a bit of a dilemma. the tech library here shows the plug positioned towards the back of the engine at 75 degs from center. the hanynes manual shows it positioned towards the front of the engine at 75 degs from center. is there a mark on the block or head I can aim at to get the proper 75 degs? as I don't have a protractor and can't seem to locate my speed square ATM. If there isn't a mark there ought to be....
Thanks for any help here.
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My ranger was stolen and never recovered ![]() |
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#23 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Chicago-land
Posts: 257
Vehicle Year: 2001
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger Edge
I use this vehicle for: Commuting, towing
Rep Power: 9 ![]() |
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If you look at the body of the synchro, you'll see a small blanking plug just below where the casting widens. If you use a mirror, positioned between the firewall and the back of the engine, you should see this plug lined up with the retainer bolt hole in the block. Check the existing installation (to see if your truck is like mine) before you remove it (but after removing the cap - this provides room to see). This might have been a "cheater" way for the guys in the factory to properly position the synchro. Now all you have to do is mark where the spinning tab is, in relation to the synchro's body. Then, position the tab, in the same orientation, when you install the new synchro. NOTES: I've read where some folks have dipped the synchro in oil, up to the o-ring on the retaining flange. I think this would cause oil to drip all over when doing the install. I chose to lube the shaft with oil (there's a small hole in the casting) and lightly greased (wheel bearing grease) the gear. The grease will handle the spinning of the cam and the small amount of oil will prevent the shaft from galling while the oil is pumped up from the pan (at start-up). At the very least use some sort of lubrication. I also opted to use silicone grease to seal the cap to the o-ring on the synchro. The inside of my old cap was pretty clean but every little bit helps. On start-up, let the engine idle for 10-15 minutes (until fully up to water temperature). The ECU will make minute adjustments as it compensates for the new synchro. My engine now runs better and seems to get better MPG than before (@ 127K miles).
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2001 Edge 4x4 2002 XR250R |
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#24 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Portland, Maine
Posts: 42
Vehicle Year: 1994
Vehicle Make: Mazda
Vehicle Model: B3000
I use this vehicle for: beater
My credo: it's not rocket appliances
Rep Power: 7 ![]() |
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I'm wondering the same thing myself. I can't seem to find the synchro for my 94 on any parts store websites.
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94 B3000 2wd 5speed reg cab 97k |
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#25 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 388
Vehicle Year: 2002
1994
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger XLT Super Cab 2WD
Ranger STX regular cab 4WD
Rep Power: 22 ![]() |
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Thought I'd add my 3.0 cam synchro experiences...
My 2002 3.0L has been in my family from new. I bought it off my parents in 2008 with 49K miles to replace my rusted out Explorer Sport. My parents always had the oil changed at the Ford dealer with bulk 5W20. I used Pennzoil yellow bottle conventional 5W20 and 5W30 after that. At 61K miles the original synchro failed. I was familiar with the problem ahead of time, so when I started the truck up on a cold morning and heard "SCCREEEECHH...chirp chirp chirp chirp" I had a pretty good idea of what was up. I was living in an apartment and had no convenient place to work on the truck, so I took it to a Ford dealer and they replaced the synchro and sensor. In the next 85K miles, the truck saw some hard use (lots of towing and heavy payloads), and I switched it to synthetic oil. Mostly Mobil 1 0W30. Figured a 0W would get the synchro oiled quicker at start up. The second synchro did last 24K miles over the original one. At 146K miles, the truck started bucking when first started before it was warmed up. Spark would just cut out when taking off from a light. Happened once or twice for a few seconds, then was real bad one morning on the way to work. No noise this time, but again I had a gut feeling about what was happening. I got a new Motorcraft synchro and put it in myself by marking the intake. Before putting the new synchro in, I soaked it in clean motor oil and let it sit for a while to make sure the inside of the assembly was completely oiled. When turning the old synchro, it felt rough, whereas the new one was completely smooth when turned. We'll see how long this one lasts. It has a little over 22K miles on it now, so it's too early to tell. It's an annoying problem, but if you catch it early and deal with it at the first symptoms, it won't be a big issue. Shops tend to charge a lot to replace it, but it's really not a bad DIY repair except for the location at the back of the engine. I think poor lubrication is the source of the problem. Both times it failed in my truck, symptoms were noticeable on a cold start with outside temps below 40*F. Personally, I stick to Motorcraft synchros. Dorman ones apparently don't have a good track record. A1 Cardone remans might be okay. I wish there was an improved replacement that just didn't go bad though. It's basically a consumable part on these engines.
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Alan 2002 Ranger Super Cab XLT 3.0L V6 2WD 182K miles 1994 Ranger regular cab STX 4.0L V6 4x4 177K miles |
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#26 |
New Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 2
Vehicle Year: 2004
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
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I have a 2004 Ford Ranger 3.0 5 speed and when I took the camshaft sensor off, my neighbor accidentally turned the belts, so, I cant just put it back in one tooth off, it just wont fly. Is there a way to install the synchronizer another way? I know its going to be many more steps but I have no alternative. He still has my shoe up his as*. Thanks in advance.
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#27 |
New Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 11
Vehicle Year: 1998
Vehicle Model: Ranger XLT
My credo: It ain't a lemon, but it's damn sure orange
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
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hey did you ever get a response or figure out how to make it work? i just ran into the same problem of not marking mine...
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#28 |
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: central cali
Posts: 10
Vehicle Year: 2003
Vehicle Make: ford
Vehicle Model: ranger
I use this vehicle for: hauling motorcycle etc
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
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Hi all ...I noticed the chirp this morning coming from the rear of the engine,cold start.. i knew what it was, just got the truck last month 2003 ranger 3.0 142,300 miles...looked on youtube and watched as the few drops of oil were put on the top bushing under the sensor to save its life....re started chirped then stopped no noise....
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#29 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Renton, WA
Posts: 1,133
Vehicle Year: 02 2X4; 08 FX4
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Rangers
I use this vehicle for: Gdaughter/DDriver
Rep Power: 15 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#30 | |
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: central cali
Posts: 10
Vehicle Year: 2003
Vehicle Make: ford
Vehicle Model: ranger
I use this vehicle for: hauling motorcycle etc
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
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Also i would recommend putting a few drops of oil in that bushing every 30k...that could save its life Last edited by uksparky; 01-13-2016 at 06:42 PM. |
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