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Old 09-24-2014, 02:30 AM   #21
kevinbmx77
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Would a 1994 have it or is it basically the distributor?
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Old 10-23-2014, 04:55 PM   #22
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I have a bit of a dilemma. the tech library here shows the plug positioned towards the back of the engine at 75 degs from center. the hanynes manual shows it positioned towards the front of the engine at 75 degs from center. is there a mark on the block or head I can aim at to get the proper 75 degs? as I don't have a protractor and can't seem to locate my speed square ATM. If there isn't a mark there ought to be....
Thanks for any help here.
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Old 12-12-2014, 02:30 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Blacksmith1 View Post
I have a bit of a dilemma. the tech library here shows the plug positioned towards the back of the engine at 75 degs from center. the hanynes manual shows it positioned towards the front of the engine at 75 degs from center. is there a mark on the block or head I can aim at to get the proper 75 degs? as I don't have a protractor and can't seem to locate my speed square ATM. If there isn't a mark there ought to be....
Thanks for any help here.
I replaced both last weekend. The cap, on my truck, was positioned pointing rearwards, towards the firewall. I don't think it can point forward, it would hit the lower manifold (and the short wiring pigtail may not be able to reach that far).

If you look at the body of the synchro, you'll see a small blanking plug just below where the casting widens. If you use a mirror, positioned between the firewall and the back of the engine, you should see this plug lined up with the retainer bolt hole in the block. Check the existing installation (to see if your truck is like mine) before you remove it (but after removing the cap - this provides room to see). This might have been a "cheater" way for the guys in the factory to properly position the synchro. Now all you have to do is mark where the spinning tab is, in relation to the synchro's body. Then, position the tab, in the same orientation, when you install the new synchro.

NOTES: I've read where some folks have dipped the synchro in oil, up to the o-ring on the retaining flange. I think this would cause oil to drip all over when doing the install. I chose to lube the shaft with oil (there's a small hole in the casting) and lightly greased (wheel bearing grease) the gear. The grease will handle the spinning of the cam and the small amount of oil will prevent the shaft from galling while the oil is pumped up from the pan (at start-up). At the very least use some sort of lubrication. I also opted to use silicone grease to seal the cap to the o-ring on the synchro. The inside of my old cap was pretty clean but every little bit helps. On start-up, let the engine idle for 10-15 minutes (until fully up to water temperature). The ECU will make minute adjustments as it compensates for the new synchro. My engine now runs better and seems to get better MPG than before (@ 127K miles).
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Old 03-09-2015, 02:31 PM   #24
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Would a 1994 have it or is it basically the distributor?
I'm wondering the same thing myself. I can't seem to find the synchro for my 94 on any parts store websites.
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Old 05-09-2015, 05:54 PM   #25
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Thought I'd add my 3.0 cam synchro experiences...

My 2002 3.0L has been in my family from new. I bought it off my parents in 2008 with 49K miles to replace my rusted out Explorer Sport. My parents always had the oil changed at the Ford dealer with bulk 5W20. I used Pennzoil yellow bottle conventional 5W20 and 5W30 after that.

At 61K miles the original synchro failed. I was familiar with the problem ahead of time, so when I started the truck up on a cold morning and heard "SCCREEEECHH...chirp chirp chirp chirp" I had a pretty good idea of what was up. I was living in an apartment and had no convenient place to work on the truck, so I took it to a Ford dealer and they replaced the synchro and sensor.

In the next 85K miles, the truck saw some hard use (lots of towing and heavy payloads), and I switched it to synthetic oil. Mostly Mobil 1 0W30. Figured a 0W would get the synchro oiled quicker at start up. The second synchro did last 24K miles over the original one.

At 146K miles, the truck started bucking when first started before it was warmed up. Spark would just cut out when taking off from a light. Happened once or twice for a few seconds, then was real bad one morning on the way to work. No noise this time, but again I had a gut feeling about what was happening. I got a new Motorcraft synchro and put it in myself by marking the intake. Before putting the new synchro in, I soaked it in clean motor oil and let it sit for a while to make sure the inside of the assembly was completely oiled. When turning the old synchro, it felt rough, whereas the new one was completely smooth when turned. We'll see how long this one lasts. It has a little over 22K miles on it now, so it's too early to tell.

It's an annoying problem, but if you catch it early and deal with it at the first symptoms, it won't be a big issue. Shops tend to charge a lot to replace it, but it's really not a bad DIY repair except for the location at the back of the engine.

I think poor lubrication is the source of the problem. Both times it failed in my truck, symptoms were noticeable on a cold start with outside temps below 40*F.

Personally, I stick to Motorcraft synchros. Dorman ones apparently don't have a good track record. A1 Cardone remans might be okay. I wish there was an improved replacement that just didn't go bad though. It's basically a consumable part on these engines.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:24 PM   #26
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I have a 2004 Ford Ranger 3.0 5 speed and when I took the camshaft sensor off, my neighbor accidentally turned the belts, so, I cant just put it back in one tooth off, it just wont fly. Is there a way to install the synchronizer another way? I know its going to be many more steps but I have no alternative. He still has my shoe up his as*. Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-27-2015, 02:53 PM   #27
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hey did you ever get a response or figure out how to make it work? i just ran into the same problem of not marking mine...
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:51 PM   #28
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Hi all ...I noticed the chirp this morning coming from the rear of the engine,cold start.. i knew what it was, just got the truck last month 2003 ranger 3.0 142,300 miles...looked on youtube and watched as the few drops of oil were put on the top bushing under the sensor to save its life....re started chirped then stopped no noise....
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:31 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by uksparky View Post
Hi all ...I noticed the chirp this morning coming from the rear of the engine,cold start.. i knew what it was, just got the truck last month 2003 ranger 3.0 142,300 miles...looked on youtube and watched as the few drops of oil were put on the top bushing under the sensor to save its life....re started chirped then stopped no noise....
I think that is a good way to blow up the engine. When chirp starts the bearing is already toast. When it really and finally goes out the oil pump will stop and you get to put a new engine in it.
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:39 PM   #30
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I think that is a good way to blow up the engine. When chirp starts the bearing is already toast. When it really and finally goes out the oil pump will stop and you get to put a new engine in it.
Good point there, it must have been replaced by the PO ..dont know when but at a guess 100k...i did re check again today pulling the sensor, there is no wear in the top bushing, using two swrew drivers to check side movement ..and no bushing dust, gear on the bottom at a guess ten thou play...oil soaked in after yesterday when i bought the truck no noise only noticed last week....i will keep an eye on it..thanks

Also i would recommend putting a few drops of oil in that bushing every 30k...that could save its life

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