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3.0L V6 Being A Bitch PLEASE HELP!!!


swisspott

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Alright. I've got a 1994 Ford Ranger with a 3.0L V6. I bought it about three years back for $1500. What a rip off! I've already invested close to $3000 and the truck is worse than it started off as. If it weren't for Ford's Escort, I would say to hell with the company. How dare they let the Japs out engineer them. Anyway, I was hoping by posting this I might get some solid advice as to how to fix the damn thing and keep it running until I can get another vehicle. With that said here are all the parts that I have had replaced.

STARTER(x2), ALTERNATOR, WATER PUMP, FUEL PUMP(x2), FUEL PUMP RELAY, BATTERY(x2), RADIATOR, MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR, IDLE AIR CONTROL SENSOR, SPEED SENSOR, DISTRIBUTOR W/ CAMSHAFT & CRANKSHAFT SENSOR, EGR VALVE, FUEL FILTER (x2), INTAKE AIR CONTROL SENSOR, OXYGEN SENSORS, THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, THERMOSTAT(x2), along with numerous oil and spark plug changes.

Symptoms the P.O.S. Exhibits:
-Rough Idle
-Overheating
-Hard to start or no start
-Pinging, hard knocking, and squelling from start through drive
-Transmission bucks when upshifting or wont shift at all
-Oil pressure gauge usually reads low
-Battery voltage gauge isn't steady
-Engaged throttle does little to nothing

I have some ideas as to what the problems may be. I know for sure my head gasket needs to be replaced and possibly the heads. Also the kickdown cable and possibly the transmission. But with bills to pay, I have little to waste on more parts. Ive already wasted $100 so the idiots at the ford dealership could tell me fuel pressure is lower than normal, of all the diagnostics they ran, if they really did run them, I figured they could tell me something that I don't already know. Through research, I've seen that it could be the cam/crankshaft sensors, or even the water pump. Please, would someone give me some solid advice and not just add to my frustrations. Im poor and this truck is all I got for the moment. Its makes me sad to think of getting rid of her for a measley scooter, but at least the scooter would be reliable.:bawling:
 


swisspott

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Alright. Replaced the fuel filter today. Not sure it helped much, noticed the fuel within was a tad dirty but nothing extreme. After trying to get the truck started, I finally managed to get it going but noticed it ran no different. Still had a rough idle. So after more research, I learned that disconnecting the spark plug wires and listening/ looking for a difference would tell me if a spark plug was good or not. The three on the drivers side of the engine seemed fine, for I noticed the truck idling a bit rougher after disconnecting the wires. But when I got to the sparkplug on the front passengers side of engine, there was almost no difference when the wire was disconnected. So I removed the spark plug, which looked a bit pitted, and replaced it with an older one that wasn't in such bad shape. Wow. What a difference. No more knocking when the engine was engaged plus more power from the throttle. I plan on replacing all six tomorrow. I like Champion spark plugs, but I think I'll go with NGK. Yes, they are Japanese made. At least some people put pride and common sense into their craftsmanship.:icon_cheers:
 

Ryannn

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Interesting. Lol reliability stopped with Toyotas 22re... In my opinion. Every company has good and bad designs. Sounds like you have gotten some bad replacement parts to me and that's why you have replaced things twice.
 

locovaca

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I sincerely doubt you're going to get smooth idle until you get your head gasket fixed. Why bother throwing parts at it when you know that needs to be done and can cause all of the things you are describing?
 

bigmark303

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I sincerely doubt you're going to get smooth idle until you get your head gasket fixed. Why bother throwing parts at it when you know that needs to be done and can cause all of the things you are describing?
+1

If you know your head gasket or gaskets need replacing fix those. With a bad head gasket your compression is thrown way off and your computer is stuck trying to adjust the fuel, air, and spark to keep you running.

The 3.0L is an OHV engine and extremely easy to change head gaskets. You can have both head gaskets done in a day with basic hand tools.
 

swisspott

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Alright. For an update I had changed the spark plugs about a month before the truck started acting up real bad. Before it would only overheat then shut down. Only at that point was it difficult for it to restart, for the engine was too hot. But anyway, I noticed that the center electrode of the spark plugs had turned red. I'm not sure what that means, but I think it's toward the engine running too hot. I noticed ya'll mentioned changing out those head gaskets. I'm just afraid I'm going to find a cracked head or two, then I'm talking more time and money. So how much for used heads and can the gaskets be replaced with only silicone gasket maker? Also what tools are needed. I know I'll need a torque wrench and 1/2" deep set socket.
Also I've noticed that the kickdown cable is torn to shit. Can it just be removed, or does it have to be replaced? And is the distributor suppose to move around, even with the mounting bolt on? I'm thinking mine's missing the mounting bolt.
 

aspevacek

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Ok you are saying over heating. Are you getting that off the engine pushing coolant out or is it just the guage saying it is over heating?

I would run a compression test on the engine before i ever decide to start pulling it apart. If you need to pull the head get a book on the truck or use an online site ot help you. Head Gaskets are critical to the engine, the seal the head to the block and most are multi layered with a steel shim in the middle or it could be a multi layered steel type gasket. Take things apart slow if you have to go in there and take pictures and label everything as you go. You will thank yourself later for the little bit of time spent because assembly will be alot easier.

Diagnostic time is always time well spent because it rules out alot of issues and saves you money and time in the long run. Proper diagnositics will keep you from needlessly throwing parts at something. My truck is a 97 I have owned it since day 1. I would not hesitate for a second to jump in my truck and drive across the country in it. When I moved up to PA from Texas my brother flew down to houston and drove my 95 honda( it was 15 years old at the time) up with out an issue. My point is taking proper care of a vehicle will determine how reliable the thing will be.
 

swisspott

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I bought this truck in Alabama. A guy had bought it for his kids, and before him it was a county vehicle in Florida. Honestly, I wish I had boughten a different vehicle. Maybe then my hate for fords wouldn't be so dramatic. Anyway, the truck is garbage. It has cancer, and by the looks of it, it's terminal. I just don't understand why the gas pedal isn't engaging like it should. It lacks so much power, and acts like it doesn't want to shift into higher gears. This truck is a headache. I wish I had time, money, and a garage like tha rest of yall. Maybe then I wouldn't be sittin here annoying myself, but rather fixing tha vixen.
 

Rearanger

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swisspott

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you know what? youre right rearanger man. the truck is 18 years old, guess I never looked at it like that. Just noticed today that I hit the 200,000 mile marker too. So heres what I need for the truck:

-New heads w/ gaskets = $1,000
-Transmission needs to be serviced = $200-2,000
-Cooling system flushed and refilled = $30
-Engine and engine compartment cleaned as good as possible = $5
-New tires = $250
-New headlights and assembly = $100
-Accessories = $300

TOTAL = $1,885-3,685
JUST REPAIR TOTAL = $1,235-2,435

Looks like im getting another vehicle:dunno:
 

adsm08

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I wish I had time, money, and a garage like tha rest of yall.
Who has that?

Time? Nope I work 9 to 10 hours a day, it's dark and about 10* out when I get home, and I have about 4 months to finish getting the nursery done. That is why my wheel bearings still need done after 3 months.

Money? Nope, my car repair budget has been cut to the bone because my wife took a pay cut and babies are expensive.

Garage? I guess you could call it that. It's more like a golrified 50 year old tool shed. I could always take the truck to work and work on it, but I don't like doing that.
 

bigmark303

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you know what? youre right rearanger man. the truck is 18 years old, guess I never looked at it like that. Just noticed today that I hit the 200,000 mile marker too. So heres what I need for the truck:

TOTAL = $1,885-3,685
JUST REPAIR TOTAL = $1,235-2,435

Looks like im getting another vehicle:dunno:
And this is where everyone runs into the same issue. If the frame is not rotted then everything else on the vehicle can be replaced or updated and keep it alive. Spend the money and fix everything on the truck and then have a trouble free vehicle or take a chance and spend about the same amount you would on repairs for another vehicle that you will end up in the same situation with? I always choose fixing the one you have already figured out and know whats wrong with.

You'll spend another $2,000 just on a running vehicle that is going to turn into another project of whats wrong and lets figure it out like youve already done with this one.

youve done all the work just fix the Ranger and have a trouble free truck for a while. These Rangers are extremely simple and easy to maintain.

Just my $.02

I see the I dont want to fix it and rather buy something else im going to end up fixing anyway logic way to much. I still dont understand it:dunno:
 

stmitch

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So heres what I need for the truck:

-New heads w/ gaskets = $1,000
-Transmission needs to be serviced = $200-2,000
-Cooling system flushed and refilled = $30
-Engine and engine compartment cleaned as good as possible = $5
-New tires = $250
-New headlights and assembly = $100
-Accessories = $300

TOTAL = $1,885-3,685
JUST REPAIR TOTAL = $1,235-2,435

Looks like im getting another vehicle:dunno:
You might spend $1000 on new heads to have a shop do the work, but you can get rebuilt heads on ebay for $300/pair, and a gasket kit is $75 or less. I got a replacement trans for mine for $400 from a local yard. Those two items alone would drop the repair cost you predicted by a huge chunk. It doesn't have to be as expensive as you might think. And its still cheaper than buying another decent vehicle. Sure you can find cars out there for $500, but the'yre going to be junk with more expensive problems to figure out.
 

swisspott

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Alright ya'll, sorry to say but tha ranger has bit tha dust. I took it for a short drive yesterday to take care of some errands. Of course she was hard to start. But tha worst of it was when she didn't want to shift into third. I don't know if thatd be the engine, the transmission, or both. Anyway I had traffic backed up a bit just pulling 30 at a 45mph zone. It really sux too because I wanted so badly to get back to Alabama where I have a spare ranger with all the parts I need, sparing the gaskets. Now, I cant even make it 50 feet, let alone 10mph. So I plan on having it scrapped. Should get $250-400 for it. WHAT A SHAME.:shok:
 

slycer2002

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Just out of curiosity, where are you located?
 

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