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Fuel Tank and Tailgate Problems.


clflorida

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Wasnt too sure where to put this, but I figured exterior was close enough.

(Story)
So I bought a low pro qt Truxedo cover for $480. Knowing it only requires no drilling and opening of tailgate to remove, I needed a lock for my tailgate. So I bought a pop&lock PL2130 that installs in 15 minutes. After trying for 4 hours and getting help from the tech support, I couldnt get it to work. So Im sending it back. Maybe Ill look for another lock, maybe someone will just steal my cover. Oh whale.
After putting everything back in like it was and shutting the tailgate, I couldnt get it open without going inside and pulling the scissor mechanism together.

(Problem)
I can open and close the tailgate if its shut...softly/lightly. If its slammed, it wont open. Ive tried everything I know except replacing stuff.(duct tape, tightening down, wd-40) When the tailgate is slammed, something happens and the passenger part of the scissor mechanism lifts up just enough or the handle latch(?) comes loose and the handle latch slides underneath the scissor and doesnt push down the scissor, opening the tailgate like its supposed to. So what do yall think needs to be replaced/messed with? Im not too sure what all this stuff is called.

(Problem)
When filling up with gas, the gas spills and drips underneath truck. Right where you stick the gas in, underneath the fuel cap and truck, is duct tape where someone tried to cover up the hole/tear. I have no idea what this thing is called. Ill probably need to take a picture but if yall have any ideas that would be kool.
 


Mark_88

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Howdy, and welcome to TRS~!

Not sure what vehicle you have, but it sounds like you should consider simply replacing the entire tailgate if possible (depends on year and make). Only reason I say this is it sounds like the locking mechanism is bent...and that usually means stressed metal. You may be able to replace the mechanism if you are mechanically inclined/can get the parts/want to spend that amount of time...

Replacing the tailgate usually involves going to the junkyard, picking out one hopefully in the same colour and popping it on your truck.

The other issue you are having indicates a broken filler hose. These are easy to replace and are easiest to replace by lifting the bed...again, depending on make and model...Rangers have six bolts holding the bed down and a few screws holding the filler neck in place...once you remove the defective hose and raise the bed (hopefully you have the replacement part at this point) you will see how easy it is...just reverse the steps to drop the box and fasten it down...

The newer the vehicle, the easier removing the box will be...but older vehicles you are dealing with potentially rusted nuts and much grunting...find a johnson bar and a short piece of pipe in case you need to apply more force...

Edit: and PB Blaster or similar penetrating oils are your friends...soak the bolts from the bottom as much as possible and let them sit over night or longer...
 
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clflorida

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Howdy, and welcome to TRS~!

Not sure what vehicle you have, but it sounds like you should consider simply replacing the entire tailgate if possible (depends on year and make). Only reason I say this is it sounds like the locking mechanism is bent...and that usually means stressed metal. You may be able to replace the mechanism if you are mechanically inclined/can get the parts/want to spend that amount of time...

Replacing the tailgate usually involves going to the junkyard, picking out one hopefully in the same colour and popping it on your truck.

The other issue you are having indicates a broken filler hose. These are easy to replace and are easiest to replace by lifting the bed...again, depending on make and model...Rangers have six bolts holding the bed down and a few screws holding the filler neck in place...once you remove the defective hose and raise the bed (hopefully you have the replacement part at this point) you will see how easy it is...just reverse the steps to drop the box and fasten it down...

The newer the vehicle, the easier removing the box will be...but older vehicles you are dealing with potentially rusted nuts and much grunting...find a johnson bar and a short piece of pipe in case you need to apply more force...

Edit: and PB Blaster or similar penetrating oils are your friends...soak the bolts from the bottom as much as possible and let them sit over night or longer...

I checked the unreads everyday looking for my thread and you posted here 2 days ago...my bad man.

But Ive been here since April...


Its a 1994 XLT but I figured it didnt really matter with the tailgate.

The arm/rod is bent but I thought that was just normal. They dont have many rangers in junkyards where I live. So I gotta buy a tailgate and have it painted the right color.

Filler hose, thank you for that. I looked up how to replace it and Im not sure if I can do that...might have to get a mechanic for that.
 

Mark_88

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No problem...thanks for coming back...sometimes we pour our little hearts out into a post to cover everything in explicit detail and the fawkers don't even come back to read the fawking thing...lol

Removing the bed isn't that hard...and a mechanic probably charges by the book which involves dropping the tank and probably at least 4 hours labour...so you're looking at a $500 plus job that can be done in 2 hours for about $100 including the beer and pizza for the helpers you get to do the dirty work...

Seriously...you show them what you want done from the step by step and I guarantee you that 6 high school kids will be lined up outside your door to help...lol...or maybe take it to your local high school...they actually take general public cars at some schools to give the kids practice...and this isn't a rocket science type repair...it's a simple hose replacement...

As long as you don't smoke or otherwise cause sparks around the gas tank this is one of the easiest replacements...not quite as easy as rad hose replacement...not quite as hard as hydraulic clutch hose replacement...
 

XLTsplash

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The Ford filler necks are the best and will last the longest, They also cost the most. I'm using a aftermarket Spectra brand filler neck they seem to be the best of the aftermarket Ranger filler necks. I would stay away from the Dorman brand because they only last about one year before the rubber cracks. The cheapest place I've found to buy the aftermarket Ranger filler necks is ebay. I've never lifted the a bed on a Ranger to replace the filler neck. I've found I can replace them without having to lift the bed. The hose clamp is a little hard to get to, it can be done. I bed is easy to lift or remove if that's the way you want to do it.
For the tailgate problem I would start by removing the the access panel on the tailgate, clean and lube all of the moving parts, make sure the latch control hasn't come loose and check the see that the tailgate handle is making good contact with the latch control levers. I've seen them bend from everything getting dry and dirty. If the tabs are bent and not making good contact, just bend them back into place and lube them up. There is also adjustment at the latch control rod clips. If you can't find the problem and your tailgate is in good condition you can just buy the latches, rods, latch control and tailgate handle from a wreaking yard tailgate and swap the parts into yours.
 
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clflorida

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Wow October? Time is going fast.

Figured Id update this since Im on here.

So the tailgate. When I took apart the handle I broke one of the plastic retainers a little that holds the rod in. I didnt think it made that big of a difference but it did. Replaced it, tailgate opens and shuts.

The filler neck and hose. I replaced the filler neck not knowing which one needed replaced. Wrong choice. But Ill get the filler hose fixed eventually.
 

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