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83 pressure valve HELP please


Angie

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When I took all the lines off the truck and frame for the off frame build, I figured it would be straight forward putting this all back together.... well months later... (or 2 years) ... nope suffering from CRS syndrome (Can't Remember Sh!t)
and to make matters worse, can't find any good info on this question on the web, unless I am also going freaking blind and can't read either... LOL


Any of you smart ford guys able to help me figure out the where and how to plumb this bad boy back in? I have 5 inlets and 4 are 3/8 and 1 is larger (rear inlet I am guessing)

Can anyone please identify the 5 lines IE - to what / where they attach to? thanks very much in advance for any help.

#1 = ?
#2 = ?
#3 =?
#4 =?
#5 =?

:beer:
 

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AllanD

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That is a combination pressure differential switch and T-block

Three ports at one end are for front brakes
The port at the other end are for the rears

In between is an hour-glass shaped piston that only moves if one side of the brake system is open....

The problem is that the device makes slight problems worse.

The motion of the piston cost you "lost motion" in which ever end of the system is still working... that's why later trucks don't have them but instead have a fluid reservoir
level sensor... which will tell you the same thing (that something is fukt)
without causing even less braking.

The reason there are three ports at one end is to "Split" the fluid flow to the two front brakes.

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Angie

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Thanks for your knowledge allan.

Would you recommend tossing this unit for a proper aftermarket proportioning valve? Then a T block splitter for the fronts? Or just figuring out the plumbing on this unit.

thanks
 

Denisefwd93

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Angie, it's RABS (rear antilock brake system) my truck stops very well without it!
 

Angie

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Angie, it's RABS (rear antilock brake system)
I am not sure about this on my truck, the year was 1983 and pretty sure ABS wasn't on this truck. I could be corrected....

Thanks for the input. :)
 

Denisefwd93

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Hmmm then it would be a proportioning valve which needs to be "reset" when put into operation, had trouble with that on one of my other cars
 

AllanD

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Thanks for your knowledge allan.

Would you recommend tossing this unit for a proper aftermarket proportioning valve? Then a T block splitter for the fronts? Or just figuring out the plumbing on this unit.

thanks
My 1987 has had a long and happy life without that thing entirely.

Starting in 1986 Ford switched to an aluminum master cylinder with a plastic fluid reservoir, and they included a fluid level switch that performs more of less the same job...


On my NON-RABS '87 the line runs uninterrupted from the master cylinder to the frame end of the rear brake hose. For the front brakes there's a brass T-fitting mounted to a clip that holds it to the frame rail

Late '88 Ford deleted that T-fitting and ran the front brake line to the left front brake hose... The T-fitting was integrated with the frame end of the hose...
And they stayed with that method until they switched to four wheel ABS.


I've considered adding an adjustable proportioning valve on occasion, but those valves are generally intended to eliminate rear wheel lockup under hard braking, which is a problem I've never really had and therefore little need to correct...

When I was converting to 4x4 and installing a 4.0 engine I had the opportunity to also add 4WABS, because my DONOR (1993 Explorer) had ABS, the reason I did not is because it would have required more stainless steel tubing than I had available at the time.

Now I'm faced with doing a cab replacement and while ABS would be "neat",
it simply isn't a priority at this time...
 

Angie

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Thanks Allan, I know what I will be doing now with this part. Figured out the placement of the "in" fittings and the "out" fittings, will be placing this unit on the inner fender near the master cylinder and running the 2 lines to it then branching off from it to the front 2 and the 1 back.

thanks
 

AllanD

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If asked point blank I would have recommended tossing it in the trash as an unneeded complication...

And as I said above my truck never had one from the factory... (as did most '86 or '87 supercabs)

It does not actually do ANYTHING but turn on an idiot light when one half of the brake system loses pressure...

"Proportioning" is accomplished by fine tuning the braking between the front and rear, usually by small changes in the rear brake wheel cylinder bore diameter....

The only problem with this is that the rear brakes do not function linearly in relationship to brake hydraulic line pressure...
 
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AllanD

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For what it's worth the consistant "problem" I've dealt with in braking in my truck
has always been a tendency to lock-up the inside front wheel on corner entry...

Well besides the metal line to the rear brakes rusting and failing.
USUALLY where the line runs between the frame and fuel tank....


I eliminated this issue by making my own hardlines out of 316L aircraft 3/16" line.

Double flaring that stuff was a Royal ****ing Pain In The Ass
that required a $300 hydraulic flaring tool...

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