Could use some advice, almost done motor swap!!!

Dubis · Apr 25, 2016

Alright so i have a project truck that i'm working on, it is a rwd 3.0 v6 ranger 1998 XLT model. All i have left is 1 bolt left on the belt housing on the top and the transmission fluid dipstick is right in my way. I tried unscrewing it like someone said but that didn't work at all. I dont have a long enough extension with an impact to get it from the bottom and i tried connecting 2 wrenches together and tried to torque on it but it wont budge, cant fit a breaker bar or anything, I tried wd40ing it too. What would be the best thing to do for that? Someone also said i have to disconnect the transmission coolant lines and remove them completely, i just removed them from the radiator and moved them out of the way, he said they would become dented. I'm only 14 and I've been doing this by myself the whole time with a lack of tools but now I have a motor crane ready for use and I'm obviously going to need2 ppl to pull it so i can guide it out carefully. But the ranger's also on my lawn so how do you think i could pull it without it sinking right in the mud? i could air up the tires real quick and move it with my sister's sierra 1500 and put it right in the driveway but if i couldnt move it back (like if the newer motor was junk) she would probably get pissed off lol. But also another thing is, am i going to have to use the wiring diagram from the blown motor? the blown one is 1998 and the one i'm putting in is from a 1994. Srry for making a big ass post but this site is the whole reason i'm able to do all this myself.

Almost done tho! :headbang:

Dubis · Apr 25, 2016

And also...

I dont have a welder but i do have to refabricate the rear end of the frame where its cracked, i'll get pics soon if i can. Buuut i generally know how much of a pain in the ass it would be. I would have to take the bed off and how would that be done?
:icon_welder:

RonD · Apr 25, 2016

Upper bolt needs to come out, period.

Try putting back in lower bolts to take stress off the upper bolt.

Then find a way to get upper bolt loose....................gotta be done.

Engine hoist won't work on grass or dirt, unless you can roll the truck out from under the engine after it is lifted up.
And remember when you lift the engine the truck's front suspension will have no weight on it, so the front of the truck will raise up pretty high.

Dubis · Apr 25, 2016

Alright, and will the transmission need to be supported with jack stands? or will it stay as is?

RonD · Apr 25, 2016

Dubis said:
Alright, and will the transmission need to be supported with jack stands? or will it stay as is?

Trans will need support.

If this is an automatic you also need to know that the torque converter needs to be unbolted from flexplate before pulling engine, it should not come out with the engine

And when reinstalling the engine the torque converter is not "plug and play", it must be placed on input shaft and rotated until it slides into place, you will feel it slide in and hear a click noise, usually 3 times.
If you forget this automatic trans will be toast, total rebuild to replace main pump

don4331 · Apr 25, 2016

Trans needs support; but it doesn't have to be a jack stand; I've used ratcheting tie down straps to support the front of the transmission once the engine was out. Loop them around frame and under transmission and you should be good.

And I try to keep torque converter in place, so I never need worry about correctly re-installing it.

Moving truck once the engine is out isn't too bad as you have taken a fair amount of weight off (hood, rad, engine, etc).

While not as convenient, you should be able to get a rachet in between the engine and firewall to undo that bolt. One of my tricks is to look some rope (twine) over the end of the ratchet handle, then pull from where I have good footing...

A frame that is cracked and needs welding, a blown engine, are you sure the truck is worth the effort?

willy · Apr 25, 2016

Put plywood down for the engine hoist it will help it roll worked for me in a soft gravel driveway

adsm08 · Apr 25, 2016

I wouldn't bother welding that frame up. 98+ frames are modular. Just go to the junk yard and get a rear half.

Heck, if you play your cards right you could build a super cab long bed.

I would get it in the driveway if you can though. I have sunk cherry pickers, I have broken ply wood sheets with them, my last garage had a badly pitted floor that mine wouldn't roll over once weighed down with an engine. It sucks trying to line things up when the vehicle is the part that has to move.

Dubis · Apr 25, 2016

don4331 said:
Trans needs support; but it doesn't have to be a jack stand; I've used ratcheting tie down straps to support the front of the transmission once the engine was out. Loop them around frame and under transmission and you should be good.

And I try to keep torque converter in place, so I never need worry about correctly re-installing it.

Moving truck once the engine is out isn't too bad as you have taken a fair amount of weight off (hood, rad, engine, etc).

While not as convenient, you should be able to get a rachet in between the engine and firewall to undo that bolt. One of my tricks is to look some rope (twine) over the end of the ratchet handle, then pull from where I have good footing...

A frame that is cracked and needs welding, a blown engine, are you sure the truck is worth the effort?

Yes it is worth the effort to me, I traded a fourwheeler for it and it came with the motor running i heard it run, and the rust isnt bad, its just the rear end. but it's still inspected till may

Could use some advice, almost done motor swap!!!

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